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View Full Version : Street Ready/Race Prepped Ninja 250 $1300


YZF Pilot
05-04-2007, 02:32 PM
I have 1989 Ninja 250 that I made totally ready for the track.

I had the heads ported and polished by G-Force who's owner used to race ninja 250's. The work cost me over $1,000.

I also added Woodcraft rear sets and clip on's, Dunlop Race/street tires and Galfer steel braided brake lines and pads.

For suspension, I have a rear shock by Works which was tuned by Aftershocks Suspension. They also revalved the front forks and added Race Tech Gold Valve Suspension Emulators.

I also have two sets of plastics, one for the street and one for the track. The track plasics are yellow and the street one's are black. The rims are yellow powdercoated and it has separate gas tanks for each bike. Like I said, I put a lot of money into this bike.

Everything is brand new...now for the bad news: I cannot get it started. After getting the heads back and adding new pistons and rings, I cannot get it to turn over. I am pretty sure it is a timing issue as everything is new but I have no time to work on it. Plus, I want to get some supermotard wheels for my DRZ (Trade anyone?).

Like I said, the engine work alone cost me over $1,000 and the clip on's and rear sets cost over $300 so with everything included, I think that you are getting a bargain for $1,300. This
includes both sets of plastics, both tanks and everything else for this bike. Please let me know if you want to take a look as I am not good at posting the pics thing. Thanks.

YZF Pilot
05-04-2007, 02:33 PM
PS. Yes, that's the one in my Avatar. :-)

Ace of Hearts
05-04-2007, 04:19 PM
So are you saying you cannot rotate/crank the motor?

When you remove the cover on the stator can you crank it over with the 14MM socket wrench?

I would really feel bad if I bought if from you, opened up the valve cover, slackened cam chain timed it correctly and slapped it back closed and just made $800.

The stator has to be in the Top Dead Center at #2. This will read T2 in the little window in for the stator. And you must have the TW mark on the wheel lined up with the mark in the window.

Then you need to have the Cam with the gear that has the nut nearest the EX mark in exhaust side of the head. Then the ones with the IN marked in the intake side of the head. Then then both these cams need to be were the horizontal lines are lined up and flat (I remove the valve gasket for this part so it is easier to see).

If everything is done correctly, then there will be 33 pins in the cham chain between the intake and exhaust marks on the cam gears.

Close it up and fire it off.

Now more than an hour tops.

Also, did you set the valve clearances?