600rr good cold, high rev warm

[-Crash-]

I have a 600rr 05-06 15kmiles, 10 of which are probably freeway miles..

Problem is. When I wake up in the morning hop on my bike and head to work the bike accelerates hard and fast no problems, once the engine is fully warmed up if I hit the throttle hard it acts as if the clutch is slipping, very little power and engine revs high for a bit until the bike finally speeds up.

Not sure whats wrong. Bike has been down and stayed down for a bit and has had some problems related to that, oil on plugs, oil in airbox, oil everywhere, but that was after the problem first showed up. Hoping there is something obvious with my problem. Not really sure when this first started, it was a while ago though so not sure what I did to it before that happened.

I was thinking maybe I put the wrong oil in or something but I have changed the oil and oil filter multiple times and nothing.

Sorry this was un-informative and it may be hard to diagnose but putting it out there to see if it something obvious.

[Burning1]

I have a 600rr 05-06 15kmiles, 10 of which are probably freeway miles..

Problem is. When I wake up in the morning hop on my bike and head to work the bike accelerates hard and fast no problems, once the engine is fully warmed up if I hit the throttle hard it acts as if the clutch is slipping, very little power and engine revs high for a bit until the bike finally speeds up.

Not sure whats wrong. Bike has been down and stayed down for a bit and has had some problems related to that, oil on plugs, oil in airbox, oil everywhere, but that was after the problem first showed up. Hoping there is something obvious with my problem. Not really sure when this first started, it was a while ago though so not sure what I did to it before that happened.

I was thinking maybe I put the wrong oil in or something but I have changed the oil and oil filter multiple times and nothing.

Sorry this was un-informative and it may be hard to diagnose but putting it out there to see if it something obvious.

What kind of oil are you running specifically?

[Burning1]

Your clutch probably is slipping.

Probable causes:
- You used an automotive oil with friction modifiers.
- Your clutch is worn.

Clutches are naturally more gripy with cold oil. The cold oil may be masking clutch problems until your bike warms up.

If you are not the first owner of this bike, it's possible the clutch was abused. Burn outs and frequent launching can all cause problems.

If you are mechanically inclined, clutch work on a motorcycle is relatively simple compared to a car. Be sure to perform all of the inspection steps described by your service manual, including run-out of the clutch disks.

Specialized tools are required, however you should be able to use them again later, or sell them once you are finished.

[Resurrection]

A shure test is as simple as 3rd gear clutch release rolling along at 30mph pull in clutch add throttle and release clutch .You'll know if it's slipping.

some oils will cause slipping please try Rottela T 15/40 alot of my comrades use it and wev'e had good luck w/it.:thumbup

[-Crash-]

10w40 4-stroke oil is what Is in there now. Also I'm the original owner, haven't been to hard on it, haven't babied it but still shouldn't have worn a clutch out in 12kmiles. hopefully its the oil, I'll try different oil.

[manapua man]

Have you tried adjusting your clutch once the oil is up to temp?

[-Crash-]

adjust what?

[Burning1]

10w40 4-stroke oil is what Is in there now. Also I'm the original owner, haven't been to hard on it, haven't babied it but still shouldn't have worn a clutch out in 12kmiles. hopefully its the oil, I'll try different oil.

What brand? Full Synthetic, Semi Synthetic, Mineral?

[-Crash-]

whatever el cheapo brand was on sale at the auto store, semi synth

[Burning1]

whatever el cheapo brand was on sale at the auto store, semi synth

So, car oil? Check the container to see if the oil is marked as "energy conserving" or "EC." There should be a API Doughnut (http://api-ec.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2006.pdf) (PDF Warning) that will tell you.

Energy Conserving oils contain friction modifiers that will definitely cause your clutch to slip.

[Var]

why do people buy bikes with race engines and put cheapo oil in them? :rolleyes

jesus f'in christ

[-Crash-]

probably the same reason I take a perfectly healthy body, then drink till I can't walk straight smoke a pack of cigarettes and have unprotected sex with "women" who only cost $20.

[radvas]

probably the same reason I take a perfectly healthy body, then drink till I can't walk straight smoke a pack of cigarettes and have unprotected sex with "women" who only cost $20.

Epic! :thumbup

[Var]

probably the same reason I take a perfectly healthy body, then drink till I can't walk straight smoke a pack of cigarettes and have unprotected sex with "women" who only cost $20.

:rolleyes

good luck to you

[Kawowie]

In Automatic transmissions (which have a very similar wet clutch pack to motorcycles) and clutch pack style "Posi" differentials you want the friction modifier. I have never heard of a engine oil that contains friction modifiers for use in cars and trucks. It is possible though that if you don't use a motorcycle specific oil (repsol for example). It can wear out the clutch faster, which in turn reduces the clearance between the release mechanism and clutch diaphram to zero. Which will precipitate more clutch slippage.

I'd say replace the clutch and go buy some Motorcycle oil, what ever your owners manual recommends.

[Burning1]

I have never heard of a engine oil that contains friction modifiers for use in cars and trucks.

I suggest reading up on "Energy Conserving" oils. :rolleyes

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil
http://www.gadgetjq.com/Oil_Articles.htm

For the OP: if you are using car oil, start by draining your oil and replacing it with a quality motorcycle specific oil. If the problem doesn't go away after a few hundred miles, you may have to service your clutch.

[Resurrection]

A shure test is as simple as 3rd gear clutch release rolling along at 30mph pull in clutch add throttle and release clutch .You'll know if it's slipping.

some oils will cause slipping please try Rottela T 15/40 alot of my comrades use it and wev'e had good luck w/it.:thumbup
Are we all saying the same thing?

[Kawowie]

I suggest reading up on "Energy Conserving" oils. :rolleyes

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil
http://www.gadgetjq.com/Oil_Articles.htm

For the OP: if you are using car oil, start by draining your oil and replacing it with a quality motorcycle specific oil. If the problem doesn't go away after a few hundred miles, you may have to service your clutch.

wikipedia is not a reliable source for information.

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/aff.aspx
I do trust Amsoil's page though. I guess my experience with "friction modifiers" differ in the automotive world that the motormotive world. (did i just make up a word?). This might a first on BARF, but i was WRONG about friction modifiers in engine oil.

[Burning1]

wikipedia is not a reliable source for information.

http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/aff.aspx
I do trust Amsoil's page though. I guess my experience with "friction modifiers" differ in the automotive world that the motormotive world. (did i just make up a word?). This might a first on BARF, but i was WRONG about friction modifiers in engine oil.

The funny thing is, I didn't cite the Amsoil article because I figured as a manufacturer, they could be considered unreliable. :laughing

FWIW, I run Amsoil motorcycle specific 10W-40 synthetics, and have been extremely pleased with them.

[elskipador]

i wouldn't trust a bit of tech data i found on the amsoil site.

[Burning1]

Why?

[elskipador]

there was an old thread where all the links about the tech data on the site were actual links and datas for other peoples products, not there own. never really trusted them after reading it. just seemed shady.

[Var]

amsoil has been independently tested and found to be a pretty damn good oil. As for tech data..whatever i can't say anything about it being true or false. But i trusted them enough to run in my old ZO6 and in my dirtbike and in my future trackbike.(runnin repsol synthetic right now)

www.bobistheoilguy.com

lab data is proof.

[elskipador]

i never said i wouldn't use it. i just said i wouldn't trust data from their site. i've never been a big "brand" guy when it comes to oil. i feel its more important to keep an eye on it and change it often than what "brand" you're using.

[Var]

i know what you mean. When the guy at the Amsoil store told me to run the 2-stroke premix at 100:1 i kinda looked at him like.. :wtf but not rude..and i said no thanks i'll just take the 50:1 mix thanks

[Kawowie]

i know what you mean. When the guy at the Amsoil store told me to run the 2-stroke premix at 100:1 i kinda looked at him like.. :wtf but not rude..and i said no thanks i'll just take the 50:1 mix thanks

Yeah but that is the dingdong behind the counter, not the college learnded chemist that created the stuff.

[elskipador]

as a company or team, you're only as good as your weakest link.

[Kawowie]

you ARE the weekest link. GOODBYE!

[Var]

Yeah but that is the dingdong behind the counter, not the college learnded chemist that created the stuff.

he just read the label on the back of the bottle which he didn't write. My point is Amsoil is a big marketing machine, and a lot of their facts may not be false but still it's sketch the way they put things. but i don't let that overshadow the fact that they do happen to makes some damn good lubricants.

The guy John that works at Amsoil in San Carlos knows his Amsoil history, and he can definitely recite a bunch of facts. Like the 100:1 premix was formlated in the 70's and was out-lubricating the other oils of the time that were running 25:1. I was like.hmm i don't think I wanna run 100:1 no matter what scientist proved. I bought the 50:1 mix and mixed at 40:1.

[TLC]

dude - time to get a new clutch