The Electronics Thread: Foglights, Heated Grips, and Blaster Horns

[donoman]

How do you guys wire this stuff up?

Sure I've invested 7 years of my life into electrical engineering but I learned how to design cell-phone amplifiers, not how to wire up Fog Lights... Well, this weekend I'd rather wire up a set of Fog Lights.

Here are my preliminary circuit diagrams, please tell me if they'll work or if they are illegal, if I am going to cause a fire hazard.

Also, does anyone know how to invert a regular light to make it a running light (ie. your rear turn signals)? I have an idea but I'm not sure if it's kosher, so please check my work.

Thanks.

Here is a picture of a VFR wiring diagram c/o B. Prohaska, UC Berkeley:

http://imlpld1.berkeley.edu/~bob/mc/vfr/vfrfix.gif

[donoman]

This is what I'm thinkin, I'm not sure if it's right. The Red is what I've done. Particularly I'm not sure about the resistor in front of the relay. I'm pretty sure I need one otherwise it'll fry my relay. I'm also not sure if I need a load resistor on the same circuit as my Fog Lights... I'm pretty sure I need a fuse in the same loop as the Fog lights...

Your comments/corrections appreciated:

http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/images/threads/000/049/979/727063-fogcirc.jpg

[UlyBoy]

I hope there's someone familiar w/ this one >> I'm thinking about adding running lights too!

[pashnit]

Boys, boys, you can buy a module to do this. You don't need to fiddle with wires. ALthough maybe you might find it as a challenge.

There are modules that will turn your turn signals into running lights. I bought one a few years back and it worked great!

This one: http://www.signaldynamics.com/images/modules/s1006.jpg

...does this... Turns your running lights into brake lights.


This module converts the rear turn signal lights to function as brake and turn signal lights. When the brakes are applies, the turn signal lights illuminate. If a turn signal is applied, it has priority over the brake light function on the side that is selected. If the turn signal is canceled and the brakes are still applied, the brake light function of the turn signal lights illuminate steady on.
Features:

Adds brake light function to existing turn signals
Dependable Solid-state electronic components.
Weather Proof - potted with soft cell technology to prevent wire chaffing and damage.

Only $40 from Signal Dymanics (http://www.signaldynamics.com/products/Modules/tristar.asp)
They have several other modules, The specific one you are thinking of I know exists since I used to have it on my FJ1200.

I did convert the turn signals into running lights by hand on my Yamaha Venture. What I did was use a dual filament bulb and two-pole socket out of an old Suburban no less. Evidently the Venture used the same kind of bulbs as a car so it was an easy conversion. Once you have the dual filament, you can wire the signal into the running light to each turn signal.

[Max Smiley]

I used a special turn signal relay either from Kisan or SDC for turn signal running lights (front and back) + self cancel + 4-way flashers. it was a simple r&r but they were expensive units. also it was in that documention where I learned in Calif. rear facing running lights are to be red only - of course my signals were amber. but I never got a ticket, saw alot of other bikes with such running lights too. good stuff out in the open highway or stuck in town. visibility is key.

[Bronto]

Module likely using voltage regulator for low power a running light. Diode to isolate the brake lights from the turn signals. Could do a simple circuit with eight (8) diodes in series. Anode on the brake light side, cathode on the turn signal. The 8 diodes will drop voltage to 6 volts. The turn signal will overide with full 12 volts.
Put a pair of driving lights on. Using the Service manual found the wire from the Bright/Dim handle bar switch. Spliced in to it to power a relay. The relay contacts connect to the driving lights. Fog lights are off until start the engine. Just like regular headlights.

[ghan]

I wired my fog lights hot to battery, relay trigger from a tap in the high beam wire. So my fogs come on with the high beam. A simple solution, but maybe not what you are looking for.

[donoman]

Ok, well I want to be able to run Foggers at night while commuting so the high beam switch is out of the question, I need to have a fully-independent switch going to control the foggers.

I'm going to figure this out, I can afford the $40 for running lights but as far as I know, this should only cost about 10$ tops in parts from RadioShack. I'll let you guys know.

Circuit diagrams are appreciated, as I don't understand what you guys mean in English most of the time. Thanks!

Donovan

[donoman]

Originally posted by ghan
I wired my fog lights hot to battery, relay trigger from a tap in the high beam wire. So my fogs come on with the high beam. A simple solution, but maybe not what you are looking for.

So, your relay trigger:

The relay has 2 input leads, you tapped one lead into the high beam wire and the other lead where? I'm assuming one lead to high beam wire and other lead to ground? If so, this answers my question about the resistor in front of the relay.

[donoman]

I found this on the RadioShack website for their 30A Relay... Although Fog lights are probably 55W @ 12V which is 5A draw tops, so we should put a fuse inline with the foglight. See below, it says that one terminal to ground and the other terminal to 12V is cool, this will actuate the secondary device.

See below:

30A Automotive Relay
(275-0226) Specifications Faxback Doc. # 38002

Contacts: .................................................. .. SPST / N.O.

Rating: .................................................. .. 30A at 12 VDC

Coil Rating: ..................................... 12 VDC, 160 mA, 66 Ohms

Pick up Voltage: ............................................... 7.8 Volts

Drop out Voltage: .............................................. 1.2 Volts

Operating Time: ....................... 10 milliseconds at nominal voltage

Release Time: ......................... 10 milliseconds at nominal voltage

Operating Temperature Range: ............ - 30 to + 85 degrees C at 60% RH

Dimensions: .................................... 2 x 1 3/16 x 1 1/8 Inches

Terminal Connections:

Terminal # 85: ................................................ +12 VDC

Terminal # 86: ......................................... Chassis Ground

Terminal # 87 & # 30: ................................... SPST Contacts

Specifications are typical; individual units might vary. Specifications are
subject to change and improvement without notice.

[donoman]

So next question, what are some good, cheap foglights to try this out with??? :teeth

[MackeyStingray]

go to kragen or something. i bought a set for my Z for $20 or something like that. bulbs burnt out w/in a couple months but hey, it's probably cheaper to replace the entire assy. than it is to find the individual bulbs

[Max Smiley]

try fog lamps that use replaceable H3 bulbs which are commonly available. tap off a circuit in your fuse box that is hot with the key on (and can handle the load) ie. tail light or even dash light. may have to up the fuse. the relay (most likely included with the fog lamp kit) will have a diagram and you can take it from there.

[Bronto]

Check out Ebay. There is some quality driving lights at reasonable prices. Hella driving lights, major brand name. PIAA and others. Got a pair of CATZ by FET real nice.
In line with the relay can put a switch. Good thing too, Driving with them on in City Stop and Go, kills the battery.