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Help On Leaking Gas Tank

whySareFIFTYymb

whySareFIFTYymb

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Location
south san francisco
Moto(s)
yamaha ysr50, repsol cag
Hey wasup . i just got a brand new paint job on my YSR but the other day i found that its leaking. near the bottom other edge. i Kreamed the tank about 3 years ago. is it possible to Kream again? or someone told me i might have to JB weld it. if so can someone please explain the process, cost and will i have to ruin my new paint job?.

also if i brought it into a shop how much to posibbly fix?. JB weld or what ever itll take. Thanks in advance
 
If a seam is splitting on the tank, trying to patch it probably won't last. Vibration, heat, and the fuel itself all work to get past the patch and if the split seam gets bigger, it could end up leaking bigtime. I had one customer who had another shop put a new fuel pump in his FI GSXR 600, and they didn't get the gasket installed right. The tank slowly emptied itself all over the garage floor. It was just sheer luck that he didn't have a hot water heater or other ignition source in there. It could have been a catastrophe.
 
Without seeing it, it's hard to say. I don't use it, but Kreem might work. But the guys I know that have tried it say it has to be redone every year.
 
whySareFIFTYymb said:
so for small leak liek this what is by best fix for it.
also what is the chepest fix for it?

thanks
Click to expand...

Which do you want? the best way, or the cheapest?

Your spending a SHIT LOAD of money redoing a YSR, why in the holy hell would you nickle and dime one of the most important parts ?

I would say, empty the tank, flush the tank, take it to Mr RPM, have him reweld the seam. that way it WILL NOT open more later on.

Screw JB weld, Do it right or do it twice.
 
You can solder the joint and then instead of Kreem try using por-15. Now that you've used Kreem, the hardest part is getting rid of the Kreem. Buy a couple of gallons of acetone to get rid of the Kreem, solder the joint and then por-15 the tank. Follow the directions to a T. It will take several days to do this properly because of drying the tank in between steps and a hair dryer/heat gun will be necessary to get it really dry inside. You have to get it really dry.
 
Bullshit, still dangerous.

Ask anyone who can weld a "tank". gasoline is a killer. Plain and simple.

Gas tank needs to be filled with water to safely be repaired.
 
I've done it before and I know other people who have done it. I did follow the directions. Gasoline is dangerous, that's why you remove it completely and yes, that can be done.
 
Dopesick VFR said:
Bullshit, still dangerous.

Ask anyone who can weld a "tank". gasoline is a killer. Plain and simple.

Gas tank needs to be filled with water to safely be repaired.
Click to expand...

I've been pretty successful in the past filling them with nitrogen or CO2 instead of water. It serves the same purpose, but it's easier to weld.
 
Go to:

http://www.por15.com/ they make a tank sealer.

The tank sealer will work on that seam leak, seal it FOREVER, and if you are CAREFUL, you wont mess up the existing paint.

Here's what I would do:

Remove the tank and all the hardware: filler neck guard, cap, petcock, etc,...

If you have a KREEM coating, that first has to be removed, and it's a BITCH, but this trick works really well: you need a busted car window (you know those Millions of tiny cubes you get when you shatter a car side window, NOT the windshield) and pour in about 2 to 3 cups of the glass shards, and about a quart of acetone (careful, this will eat through the paint in seconds, so have some paper towels handy) (I would SLIME* the tank first to protect the paint: see below), and you just slosh the glass chunks/acetone mixture around the inside of the tank ALL over for about 2 days, draining, and putting in fresh glass and acetone at least twice.
this will remove about as much of the kreem as you can get off without bead blasting the tank (bye bye paint job)

Then using a good strong detergent (dawn works great) and HOT water flush/wash the inside till the water runs clean, do this no less than 3 times, or everything else you do will fail.

To protect the paint, I use "*SLIME", it's a liquid masking material, that you spray on, let dry, and then it's impervious to any solvent, or paint, ,...you wash it off with hot water,....

Then use the MARINE CLEAN as per the directions in the kit, but I tape a small hair blow dryer to the filler neck opening to speed the drying process (still takes a few hours) you MUST DRY COMPLETELY before proceeding to the next steps, VERY IMPORTANT.

Then use the METAL READY etching solution as per the directions, BUT, if you didn't have any rust, you only need to slosh it around for a couple of hours,..then back to the hair dryer,.....

Then finally you pour in the tank sealer (if your tank is larger than 4 gallons, I would get the next larger size of tank sealer (8oz), and tilt the tank all around, to get the coating all over, dont worry about the seam leak area yet, just make sure you coat the "hump", thats the hardest to get complete coverage, and the surface under the filler neck.
once it's all coated, remove the plug at the petcock, and let whats left of the sealer drain out, again tilting the tank, making sure you dont have any puddles, finally when pretty much all the sealer is drained out, prop the tank up so that whats left settles in the seam leak area.

DO NOT FILL THE TANK WITH GAS FOR 5 DAYS!!!
por15 is moisture activated, so it takes longer in summer to cure, so if ya live in the ciity, leave it out for the morning fog (serious)

that will seal that small seam leak FOREVER, you will never again have to reseal the tank, or get it welded, ever.
I have a tank that was sealed over 7 years ago, and it's perfect inside, still.

I didn't say it would be easy, but it will only cost you about $50 total to seal that seam leak forever, cheap and VERY permanent.

have fun
 
reckon said:
Go to:

http://www.por15.com/ they make a tank sealer.

The tank sealer will work on that seam leak, seal it FOREVER, and if you are CAREFUL, you wont mess up the existing paint.

Here's what I would do:

Remove the tank and all the hardware: filler neck guard, cap, petcock, etc,...

If you have a KREEM coating, that first has to be removed, and it's a BITCH, but this trick works really well: you need a busted car window (you know those Millions of tiny cubes you get when you shatter a car side window, NOT the windshield) and pour in about 2 to 3 cups of the glass shards, and about a quart of acetone (careful, this will eat through the paint in seconds, so have some paper towels handy) (I would SLIME* the tank first to protect the paint: see below), and you just slosh the glass chunks/acetone mixture around the inside of the tank ALL over for about 2 days, draining, and putting in fresh glass and acetone at least twice.
this will remove about as much of the kreem as you can get off without bead blasting the tank (bye bye paint job)

Then using a good strong detergent (dawn works great) and HOT water flush/wash the inside till the water runs clean, do this no less than 3 times, or everything else you do will fail.

To protect the paint, I use "*SLIME", it's a liquid masking material, that you spray on, let dry, and then it's impervious to any solvent, or paint, ,...you wash it off with hot water,....

Then use the MARINE CLEAN as per the directions in the kit, but I tape a small hair blow dryer to the filler neck opening to speed the drying process (still takes a few hours) you MUST DRY COMPLETELY before proceeding to the next steps, VERY IMPORTANT.

Then use the METAL READY etching solution as per the directions, BUT, if you didn't have any rust, you only need to slosh it around for a couple of hours,..then back to the hair dryer,.....

Then finally you pour in the tank sealer (if your tank is larger than 4 gallons, I would get the next larger size of tank sealer (8oz), and tilt the tank all around, to get the coating all over, dont worry about the seam leak area yet, just make sure you coat the "hump", thats the hardest to get complete coverage, and the surface under the filler neck.
once it's all coated, remove the plug at the petcock, and let whats left of the sealer drain out, again tilting the tank, making sure you dont have any puddles, finally when pretty much all the sealer is drained out, prop the tank up so that whats left settles in the seam leak area.

DO NOT FILL THE TANK WITH GAS FOR 5 DAYS!!!
por15 is moisture activated, so it takes longer in summer to cure, so if ya live in the ciity, leave it out for the morning fog (serious)

that will seal that small seam leak FOREVER, you will never again have to reseal the tank, or get it welded, ever.
I have a tank that was sealed over 7 years ago, and it's perfect inside, still.

I didn't say it would be easy, but it will only cost you about $50 total to seal that seam leak forever, cheap and VERY permanent.


if i pay you can you do it for me? so i dont mess up?>
have fun
Click to expand...
 
help anyone wanna check my tank out for me? see whats the bes tthing i can do or any shop i can take it to and ho wmuhc itll run me. thanks


bump bump
 
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