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New ADV Sled - 2011 DR650SE

Nemo Brinker said:
Stock forks, no emulators. I went straight from the stock (10w?) fork oil and springs, to Eibach springs and 10w, to the 20w when those seals blew, so I have no sense of anything in between; but I feel as if I can do much more in terms of off-road bumpiness than in stock form.

I think that the general ADVrider DR650 thread consensus is that 10w is best with emulators (or the Intiminators, which you've detailed why you don't like). I dunno, maybe you can take a spin on mine sometime and see what you think, if we ever find ourselves in the same county.
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Stock to emulators is not a good comparison since the damping rates and curves differ.

Did you abandon the honda fork swap? Give the emulators a try. They work much better than the stock bits.

For me, 10W is significantly underdamped, especially on rebound. I find that suspension recommendations on the internet vary wildly due to terrain, riding style, and a fundamental lack of understanding of what the suspension should be doing. I went to 15W, then 20W and I think the sweet spot for me is somewhere in between.
 
I'd looked into the RM front end swap, but those were hard to come by on ebay when I last looked, but Im not ruling it out.....
 
the stock fork oil is 5 wt. If you use intiminators it is highly recommended that you do not go heavier than 5 weight.
If you use emulators you should stay in the 10-15 weight territory, but are designed to work with 10. Ive got 10wt oil and .50 strait rate springs up front and it feels terrible on the road but absolutely wonderful offroad. I sacrifice a bit of comfort but I think its worth it:thumbup
 
Blue-8 said:
the stock fork oil is 5 wt.

If you use emulators you should stay in the 10-15 weight territory, but are designed to work with 10.
Click to expand...

The stock fork oil is 10W.

Can you explain in technical terms, why one should stay within the 10-15 weight range and how going beyond 15W will compromise damping with way the emulators are designed?
 
New bars:
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My gf gettin ideas:
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Old pegs:
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New pegs:
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:D
 
luckett, I did abandon the XR600 fork project. Still have the forks and axle waiting around for a future occasion, and just decided to go for the better springs/20w oil for now.

Here are a couple photos of the gf's new EBC 320mm rotor. Looks a little blingy, but my does it stop well.



 
Thats an awesome rotor. Is it too powerful for the dirt? Or is that even possible? I just like knowing I can use 2 fingers fairly hard on the stock front brake going down a steep hill without it locking up.
 
The rotor is not intended for dirt use; I have a spare wheelset with knobbies for each bike, and I swap those on when I'm heading dirtways. I'm keeping the original rotor holder/spacer taped to the dirt wheels, so I can swap it out as well--the dirt wheels have the stock rotor.
 
Stock fork oil weight is 10wt. I apologize for the false info, I had bumped up to 15wt, blah blah blah. Anyway, the real reason why the intiminators want you to use 5wt oil is to deal with the stock holes drilled in the damping rods. So instead of the emulators calling for you to drill out the stock damping holes while adding additional ones, the intiminators get around that obstacle by requiring you to use a lesser weight. Honestly, Ive heard great things about both the intiminator and the emulator but... The Intiminators' literature claims it is the only thing that can tell the difference between wheel travel and chassis movement=bullshit.
The intiminators, Im sure, are a fine product but Id go with the emulators. I just helped install them on my buddies klr and the difference is night and day, and nowhere does it claim anything it doesnt actually do:thumbup
 
Mosquito Ridge Road RR. Just a nice day on the ridge last Friday by myself.

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I chilled at the lookout for a second the went up Forest Route 33 and Cuckoo Ridge rd. Checked out grouse falls too.

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The went up Rte 33 as far as I could go and checked out all the dead end dirt roads too. Had some fun in the snow:

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Cuckoo Ridge was super fun! Lots of mud and some really cool terrain.
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MRR had a few boo boos:
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Gorgeous day!
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It was an awesome day. Till next Friday ....:D
 
spdt509 said:
I'd looked into the RM front end swap, but those were hard to come by on ebay when I last looked, but Im not ruling it out.....
Click to expand...

Got a set of RM USD for this DR250... any info on if I need to cut the stem? What length? Lower bearing ID/OD sounds like use the DR... but upper bearing use the RM?

Advice?
 
seavoyage said:
Got a set of RM USD for this DR250... any info on if I need to cut the stem? What length? Lower bearing ID/OD sounds like use the DR... but upper bearing use the RM?

Advice?
Click to expand...
i dont think cutting is necessary, but the thread i saw on advrider had no mention of it, might just be a press in/press out swap....
 
Installed Acerbis' new 5.3 gallon tank last night.
Doing work:
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Work complete:
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I had to rotate the turn signal brackets up and reverse them so they wouldn't hit the new tank at full lock. I actually like the way they look up high better. New brush guards too. Found them for $20 at a MX shop. Just had to get some custom hardware.

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And the beat goes on...
 
DR650 at the 2012 Sheetiron 300.

Heavier springs front and rear
PowerMadd 2" bar risers (I'm 6'4")
ProTaper SE 7/8 bars with KX High bend (consider the SE bars to make it easier to add various RAM mounts for mirrors, roll chart, GPS, etc.)
heated grips
Cycra Pro Bends
IMS 4.9 tank
TM40 pumper carb (worth its weight in gold!)
airbox opened up from the top
Rick Mayer Cycle seat
Dunlop D606 rear tire
Michelin Endurocross front (no longer in production)
520 chain conversion, 42T rear, 15t front for street, 14T front for dirt
spare set of wheels has the stock Bridgestone street tires but those suck in the dirt

Carl from ProCycle used to work for the AFM Dunlop trackside distributor and he set me up with quite a few of these mods. I'm leaving the stock exhaust to keep it quiet. The aftermarket exhausts are too loud and the GSXR can really doesn't make any significant power, it just saves about 10 lbs... so considering the DR650 curb weight is supposed to be 366 lbs, spending ~$400 to save 10 lbs seemed a bit much for me. I would suggest spending that money on a second set of wheels so you can have one street setup and one dirt setup. I've been on the street with the DR and I've also been to Hollister and the Sheetiron 300 for dirt riding. Having the right tires makes a fairly significant difference and I don't feel like wrestling tires and tubes every time I go for a different ride than the previous one.

Enjoy your DRs! :thumbup
 

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