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Old 06-12-2018, 10:03 AM   #31
mjj
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2001... it has the 6 speed trans, and yeah, it's never carried much weight BUT I have beat the heck out of it on goaty, dirty, and rocky road adventures

In fact, I broke the rear shock bottom attach clevis on the Ohlins I had mounted.. then put the stocker on back on
There you go... the spline thing seems to be confined to early models. I have no idea what could have been changed to fix the issue, but I'm quite sure yours is not one of the problem years.

You like it goaty, dirty, and rocky? I hope we cross paths!
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:29 AM   #32
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There you go... the spline thing seems to be confined to early models. I have no idea what could have been changed to fix the issue, but I'm quite sure yours is not one of the problem years.

You like it goaty, dirty, and rocky? I hope we cross paths!
I fly with the Hun


seriously, keep an eye out for rides with flying_hun
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Old 06-12-2018, 09:16 PM   #33
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[QUOTE=mjj;10108232]When I got the email notification of your post I thought "Well here's another Triumph owner thinking he knows all about German bikes "

When I saw your avatar I thought, well, maybe.

Then I read your post and I must admit it smacks of knowledge and experience. So: Thank you! That took some time and effort.

A bit more about the drive spline. Internet chatter says that "early model" 1100's do need lots of love at the drive spline. I think '94 is the first model year, and I also think '96 might be the first year it was offered in the US. Can you elaborate about why you say the drive spline lube DNA?

I'm planning to take a look at it no matter what, to see what 22 years of wear looks like, and use some moly paste on it JIC, but if you persuade me it's not a regular maintenance item I may check it less periodically. Not that I really mind peeking behind the transmission, but I'm sure I could find better things to do.

Another question about the alternator belt if you don't mind. I see comments about an alternator belt tensioner retrofit/redesign that removes belt tension from the regular maintenance list. Do you know what year this transpired? I can surely live with the 40k mile interval you suggest, although I doubt I'll run that up quickly so a time interval may be better.

The bit about cycling fluid thru the ABS before flushing is brilliant and novel. Good practice to get experience overbraking in front, too, I guess (*GULP*). However I have seen comments espousing the brake lever bleed method over a vacuum method, and they are just as heartfelt as your comment to the contrary. Do you mind elaborating on that point also?

Tire pressure advice, spot on. She's much happier with that than the 32's I tried first (worked on the previous bike...). "Shifting like a truck" is apt, as a truck will generously reward you for carefully matching revs when shifting. As will it punish you for not.

So much other great advice, too much to call out. Thank you.

I've been running lower on the RPM range as a buzz starts at about 4k. Very smooth below that. Will escalate thru the maintenance (plugs, valves, then TB sync a/r) to see if it settles down. Otherwise I'll live with it during high demand moments (wheelies, LEO evasion, etc.)

All the best...[/QUOTE

The engine came out in 1994 as the R1100RS. The R1100RT came out in 1996.
The spines needed servicing on the boxer 2valve motors and the K bikes. not the R1100 motor. The R1150 motor had issues sporadically with misalignment and too little tooth engagement with the then new 6speed trans.
It's not ME saying there is no servicing required, read he factory service sheets. It's a non issue until you replace the clutch, then it's part of installing new parts.

Alt belt. The very early ones came with a standard drive belt that squeaked when cold ,hot, worn. Upon replacement there was/is a kit that replaced both pulleys and included a ribbed belt, like an automotive serpentine or timing belt. the 1100 belt required no maintenance, just replacing every 25k miles (40k Kilometers) use of a bmw belt insures no squeaks or early failures.
Many bmw owners pride themselves on saving every nickel even at the expense of reliability. They will use automotive belts, off brand belts, etc. these will fail early, squeak.etc.

The 1150 came out with a new belt that required re-tensionig at 10k miles then replace by the spec. Later 1150's changed to an elastic type belt with no re-tensioning.
Again, your internet "research" is failing you by mixing up the 1100 and 1150.

Brake bleeding. You can remove the tank, (PITA) to bleed the ABS modulator at the fittings but can achieve pretty much the same result by doing the cycle thing in a dirt field. Really concerned ? Do it twice.

Bleeding at master. Over time, every master ,car, truck, motorcycle , etc, develops a ring of deposits inside the bore of the master at the end of the normal stroke. This "crud line" hardens like glass over time. The piston never goes any further so it's harmless.
Then you go to flush, and pull the lever and the piston goes thru the crud line 5-10-20 times.
Your brakes are bled, all is well, and the next day, week, month, your master starts weeping fluid . What??? The piston and rubber seals have been pushed thru this hardened ring of crud and the rubber cups are now damaged.
A kit is 89.00 IF you can get the master apart. Take a look on just how the lever comes off to access. Yeah.
A new master is 450.00 + without lever it's less, bit getting the corroded fasteners out to remove the lever can be caveman chop, grind.
So , to be safe you use a Mity Vac or Vacuum bleeder. The rear is the same story.

The pre-98's have a one piece throttle cable about 5 feet long. It goes from the throttle to each TB and is very hard to adjust for the novice. It has to be tensioned just right. Upshifting at 3500 will give you smoother shifting . Vibration is a relative thing . If it vibrates at 4K, compared to what ? It's a big, hi compression twin.
They absolutely detest lugging and will be sure you know they are unhappy. The 1100 motor has a cool dude personality. It likes to go, no patience for sitting around idleing or strolling around looking in the windows of little shops. They will ping, buck, stumble.
Oh they also have a very early early FI system. Blipping the throttle at stoplights will cause stalling, hard restart, general grumpiness. Let it idle until the light changes.
In many ways the 1100 was a less finicky more durable bike than the 1150, but shifting , yeah.

Last edited by Tri750; 06-12-2018 at 09:19 PM..
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Old 06-12-2018, 09:26 PM   #34
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Oil sight glass. Look at yours.
The old style is plastic and has a red dot or bullseye in the center. Bad news. These by now are old and can pop out with no warning. The newer glass one is clear in the center, no red. Last almost indefinitely.
I just saw you're in Fresno.
Silly me, I'm in Clovis.
Easier to meet up and bore you for an hour or so.
Here's my '99 RT.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:01 PM   #35
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Silly me, I'm in Clovis.
Easier to meet up and bore you for an hour or so.
Here's my '99 RT.
Very nice! Stock color?
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:07 PM   #36
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Very nice! Stock color?
Yes, it's called Boston Green.
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:46 PM   #37
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Yes, it's called Boston Green.
When you're tired of it, you could do this
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Old 06-13-2018, 12:55 PM   #38
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You're too kind!

No farkles, but I'm trying to come up with some way to save the universe using all that bumper sticker space on the bags...
Seafoam Green is the BMW name for that color, I like it.

I'm sure that Budman can provide plenty of BARF stickage, Kurt aka Flying_Hun has his own, Koi has one or two, etc.
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:29 PM   #39
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When you're tired of it, you could do this
Yes, just before I shop for a red scarf.

(Too soon?)
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Old 06-13-2018, 03:33 PM   #40
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Seafoam Green is the BMW name for that color, I like it.

I'm sure that Budman can provide plenty of BARF stickage, Kurt aka Flying_Hun has his own, Koi has one or two, etc.
What, this color ?

No, no.

Glacier Green.
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:25 PM   #41
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The BMW salesman in Lynnwood, WA must have been mistaken.

Because I am never wrong.
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Old 06-14-2018, 04:46 AM   #42
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The BMW salesman in Lynnwood, WA must have been mistaken.

Because I am never wrong.
It's really good for the soul to be wrong from time to time. Very cleansing.
My wife says it builds character .

In fact I included the same comment in my letter to Google after entering "BMW Glacier Green" and seeing all the errors they had made in adding lots of pictures of bmw cars and bikes in that same benign color.
Bmw is very thrifty and shares colors between the car and bike line.
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:29 AM   #43
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I've been shopping for some good Moly paste, and apparently the Honda stuff that used to be so great isn't great anymore.

But after some searching, I discovered something that must be MUCH better than Moly. Divine, even.
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:38 AM   #44
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this
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Old 06-15-2018, 11:02 AM   #45
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I dunno. Check the LM40's MSDS. It does not specify, nor does the packaging, the % molybdenum. If they were proud of it, they'd say so.

Loctite LB-8012 otoh says on its MSDS that it is 60-100% moly. I've ordered a can.

Lest we find ourselves in a Chevy-Ford-Coors-Bud-Castrol-RedLine argument, I really don't think it matters if we even put whale spooj on those splines, as long as it's done regularly. The only serious wear I've ever come across in my tinkerings comes when something is neglected and has NO lubricant (& a nice accumulation of dirt and bugs) for a while.
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