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Old 02-23-2012, 08:54 AM   #1
Cubs
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Lost pressure in front brake r6

Last night I tried to bleed the brakes because i'd noticed the fluid had gone mucky.
it went pretty successfully using a plastic tube routed into a container to drain the fluid and following the instructions from the service manual- squeeze, open, close, repeat.
when the old fluid was just short of gone, i poured in the new fluid and pretty well lost all pressure in the brake lever. I continued bleeding, intending to go on until seeing clear fluid come out, but the pressure never got better. finally i bled through 1/4 of the re-filled reservoir with no change in results. i can fully engage the lever and roll the bike around as the front brakes do not appear to be working at all. And when i do bleed them now, only a tiny bit of fluid drains out for each cycle, which makes sense due to the loss of pressure-
but, how do i get the pressure back?
the bike is an 03 r6.
the manual doesn't state an ability to bleed from the master cylinder, but i haven't checked yet.
I have appx 45 minutes of daylight after work with which to do any maintenance so i don't get a great deal of time to mess around with it.
thanks for any help
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:04 AM   #2
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did you make sure the bleeder screw was tite? and did you make sure to pump the brake lever after you got everything filled and bleeder screw tite? Did you pump the brake, then crack the bleeder, then tite'n the bleeder, then release the lever? I think you got air in the lines somehow. Is any fluid comming out of any fittings? Also, if the brake master has a bleeder screw, try cracking it too to bleed the master.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:08 AM   #3
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Don't ride it until it gets fixed. Find someone with a vacuum bleeder and do it right.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #4
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definitely not riding it- driving the gfs car and paying a disturbing amount for parking, but im not getting on a bike with no front brake.

@wicked4racin- yes, i started by pumping the brake 2-3 times then holding it as tight as i could and loosening the bleeder screw about 5-8 degrees, then tightening back down, then releasing the lever. rinse repeat. it was working great until i poured in the new fluid.

maybe i let the old fluid get too low and it sucked a bunch of air before pouring in the new, thats all i've come up with so far.

it will still bleed, but will only barely trickle out instead of rushing out. so continuing to bleed After the loss of pressure has failed to revive any sort of pressure.

I will check the master cyl when i get home tonight, but any other ideas for how to get the pressure back?
at this point ill just go home tonight and continue to attempt to bleed the air that must be in there out.

i don't know anyone with a vacuum bleeder.
what about speed bleeders?
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:00 AM   #5
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Did the fluid ever fall under the hole on the reservoir? Probably sucked air in like you said. If so, it would take a few more bleeding cycles than a 1/4 of the new fluid. Bleed the whole system - m/c, and both calipers. Might take a while and just re use the new fluid if you run out once you flush the old fluid out.

If that's not the problem... then gl!
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:06 AM   #6
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but any other ideas for how to get the pressure back?


Find someone with a vacuum bleeder and do it right.
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:41 AM   #7
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maybe i let the old fluid get too low and it sucked a bunch of air before pouring in the new, thats all i've come up with so far.
Probably this.

If you don't have a vacuum bleeder handy and you're feeling a little bit nasty you can use your mouth to create vacuum. Recommend you clean the hose and stop sucking when you see the fluid coming down the hose before it reaches your mouth. This should get the bubble past the master cylinder piston and then you can return to the normal bleeding procedure.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:04 AM   #8
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Thanks for the replies guys.
ha, hopefully i won't have to siphon the fluid, but that is a reasonable option.
@alanriderz- i'm going to try to get it going with what i've got available today, as i only know one other person with a motorcycle. but if i don't manage to get any results, ill look around over the weekend for someone who might lend, or let me use their vacuum bleeder.
you're right, vacuum bleeding would be ideal.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:28 PM   #9
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If you have a big syringe you can use that to create a vacuum as well.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mototireguy View Post
Probably this.

If you don't have a vacuum bleeder handy and you're feeling a little bit nasty you can use your mouth to create vacuum. Recommend you clean the hose and stop sucking when you see the fluid coming down the hose before it reaches your mouth. This should get the bubble past the master cylinder piston and then you can return to the normal bleeding procedure.
Don't do this. This is like putting the bike in 1st on a stand to speed up chain cleaning. If it strips paint I don't want it anywhere near my mouth.

I bought a mityvac for $40 on amazon. If you were cheap you could draw vacuum with a syringe and a hose clamp, like Jimbo says.
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:47 AM   #11
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If there is no bleeder at the master cylinder, you can also pump up the brake, and barely loosen, then quickly tighten the banjo at the master cylinder. The lever will come in and leave it pulled in, until you re-tighten the banjo. Put a rag around the area, as fluid will shoot out, and fluid will harm your paint.

Regarding Vacuum brake bleeder, check you local autoparts store or harbor freight. Here is one for $25 http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:03 AM   #12
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also, post bleed, sometimes it is helpful to pull the brake lever as hard as you can back to the handlebar and secure it there (zip tie, wire, strap, etc) and leave it overnight.

supposedly this helps get any micro bubbles out of the brake lines and up into the fluid reserviour (sp?)
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Old 02-24-2012, 11:51 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by ALANRIDER7 View Post


Find someone with a vacuum bleeder and do it right.
I've bled brakes from fully dry - or at least freshly rebuilt calipers, which is far more dry than just lines - without a vacuum bleeder. It's a PITA but it can certainly be done.
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