CCT Problem on the F4i

Well, from what I hear the CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) problem is pretty much universal on the F4i. I have a 2001 F4i and the rattle is pretty rediculous at around 5000 rpms. Has anyone fixed this problem? If so how and how much dinero did it set you back?

I've never changed mine, but it's a $60 part (I think), and you can do it yourself if you know how to use tools . I've seen some "how to's" on the internet for the f4 cct, but I couldn't imagine how it could be that different from the f4i. CBRWorld has one I know...

The whole process of changing out the CCT on my F2 was pretty straight forward, so I did it all myself. If you do it yourself make sure to get a new gasket, new crush washers, and make sure to lube the CCT and gasket with a little oil. Local SpeedShop SC quoted me about 1/2 hour labor, so if you're going to have a shop do it figure about $30 - $65 plus parts.
APE Racing sells the manual CCT's which I've been told are as good or better than Honda replacements. The cost to get one is ~$50 shipped. The instructions they come with are pretty non-descript, but for me it was easy enough to match the height of the old CCT, drop it in and adjust the tension so that the cam chain didn't rattle at idle. I've been told CCT problems are most worrisome at lower RPM or quick switches from high to low RPM so treat your F4 gently 'till you can get it fixed.
APE Cam Chain Tensioners are here:

http://www.cbrzone.com/sprockets.html

I know what you mean. Hit the right RPM and it sounds like ball bearings in a coffee can. I had mine replaced with a manual version at Hare Racing. I can't remember exactly what I payed for it, but I'm pretty sure it was < $150.

Cheers!

its not all that hard, but you've got to take a lot of stuff apart on the f4i's. lowers, airbox and throttle bodies, seat, tank (can just be liffed out of the way). making sure its adjusted properly is pretty important as well.

elskip,

I pretty much adjusted mine until there was no cam chain noise at idle, no drop in idle speed, and no rattle at any other lower and mid-rpm. Is there another way to go about adjusting it?

yeah, you can take the valve cover off and measure a few things. you can also set it a little farer out than the crap stock 1 and it'll be close. i like the adjusting while running method, but with the f4i's its a lot harder than the f2. theres not as much clearance around the CCT

is a bad CCT the reason why I hear lots of grinding and garbling when i do engine shifting down into first gear? i've noticed the sound and it doesn't seem quite right.

what are some other signs that the CCT might be bad?

No, the CCT shouldnt be responsible for grinding when you shift down to first. The CCT is a component that adjusts the tension of the chain, and it doesnt function correctly on most F4i's causing a loud rattle at around 5000 rpms.

NO!... when you downshift to 1st gear you are most likely hearing the transmission gears engaging

creamygoodness said:

is a bad CCT the reason why I hear lots of grinding and garbling when i do engine shifting down into first gear? i've noticed the sound and it doesn't seem quite right.

what are some other signs that the CCT might be bad?

Click to expand...

If you have a warranty, the dealer will replace it for you.
Was my case.

Do ya' need the key/tool to remove the cct and replace w/a new one or do you need it only for re-installing the original one?



Jason

No need for the key to remove it, and the replacement OEM CCT comes with a key to hold it in place. Manual CCT doesnt need a key.

I recently replaced my cam chain tensioner with a APE Manual cam chain tensioner: http://cbrzone.com/sprockets.html.

The Honda CBR F4i comes with an automatic CCT and has been affecting the majority of the F4i's at around 8,000 miles. You will hear a 'grinding' noise anywhere from 2,000 - 5,000 RPM's. Some have said that even after replacing it with another automatic CCT from the dealer, it happens again. This could be caused by Fully Synthetic oil, or cheap oil (but thats my opinion).

Either way I wanted to go with a manual CCT. I had to take off my right fairing and gas tank. Lift the tank and pull it over to the left a bit. On the right side of the mid frame you will see a hole in it, thats to get to the lower bolt of the CCT. If you look behind the frame the CCT resides there.
I was able to get the top bolt using an extension, 45 degree angle, and a socket to hold the allen key. For the bottom bolt I did the same while puting the tools through the hole in the frame, that I was talking about.
After installation and tightening the push rod that puts tension on the cam chain I locked it up with the locking bolt and gave her a go.. NO NOISE!
NOTE: With a manual CCT you will most likely need to adjust a little bit every 1,000 or so as you start to hear a tiny little bit of noise.
Hope that helps,
JDUB

$50, comes with gasket

do the 929s have this problem as well? my friend's bike makes a noise that sounds similar to what people are describing. i think his bike has about 30k on it.

Manual CCT

I have replaced the OEM CCT after 2000 miles because the raddling was just bad. I decided to install a manual CCT (APE) myself and it was pretty straight forward. You just need to remove the gas tank, air box, and throttle bodies. There is not much clearance and honda placed their CCT all the way to the way, almost to the bottom to make the task more complicated than it should be. I had to adjust my manual CCT at 15000k, now the bike has 28000k and it is about time to adjust it...for less than 50 bucks the APE is a good buy and cheaper than Honda's OEM part.