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how to: r6 brakes with backwards rotors

elskipador

elskipador

elskipador@gmail.com
Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Location
gilroy
Moto(s)
the trickest f2 you've ever seen.
Name
shawn
after tuning up this barfers bike i took it for a test ride to see if i could i.d. a chatter/wobble caused by the brakes being put on. it needed pads and a fluid change, as well as having the rotorr put on correctly :wtf thats right the rotors aren't on right see if you can spot whats wrong

besides the rotor problem you can do this job with a 8mm open/end wrench a 12mm socket and ratch, a philips screw-driver and a piece of tubing and a catch. for the rotor problem you'll need a front stand and dial indicator

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1st take the 12mm socket and ratchet and loosen and remove the 2 bolts holding each caliper on.

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remove the 2 lock-pin from the brake retaining pin with needle nose pliers

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after removing the pin the pads will fall out of the caliper. remove the pad spring from the top of the caliper. these pads were completely used up. 1 or 2 more times on the brake and it would have been metal on metal :wow

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spray out the inside of the caliper with contact cleaner and scrub with a old tooth brush :teeth

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suck all of the old crappy brake fluid out with a pump

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gently press the caliper pistons back into the caliper body. pushing in on just 1 will make the other 3 move. use multiple fingers, like da shocker :laughing, to get the job done

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it'l look like this when done. :laughing somebody needs to photo-shop some monster teeth on the caliper

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slide the new pads into the caliper and use your fingers to keep them in place

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put the pad spring back into its place on the top of the caliper

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slide the pad retaining pin back into place, between the pads and pad spring. then put the lock pins into there holes on the retaining pin. forgetting to reinstall the lock-pins can end up in complete brake failure and death!! do not skip this step!!!

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put the caliper back on the rotor and torque to 40 N/m

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attach the 8mm wrench to the bleeder bolt, along with the tubing and catch. start with the caliper thats farthest away from the master cylinder. bleed until all the old fluid is flushed out

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top off the master cylinder after bleeding and replace the cap. pretty simple takes about an hour, if it weren't for our secret problem

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notice the grayish oval areas around the mounting bolts?? some smart-guy decided it'd be a good idea to run the rotors inside out. the off-set is really slight on the r6, so they fit and stopped, but not like they should

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