• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Track/Competition bike wiring.

M

mike54

New member
Joined
Oct 18, 2005
Location
Sacramento
Moto(s)
BMW, Suzuki, Ducati
Back in the olden days before ECU's and FI this was fairly straight forward. Now not so much.

I'm thinking about a dedicated track bike here. Not a street bike that you take to the track.

Unplugging the lights seems straight forward enough. But how do I know an unplugged light doesn't send some kind of code to the ECU?

Disabling the side stand switch. A lot of folks just twist the wires together but on a lot of diagrams I see a diode in the switch. It looks to me like it's there to protect the circuit from current flowing from ground. Is it OK to delete this protection? I know a lot of people have been doing this for years with no issues. But that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Same idea with the clutch switch. A lot of people just twist the wires together but I've been told that this puts the ECU in a different state. That's possible but then I wonder what happens as you're using the clutch while riding.

Then there's the tip-over sensor. Do you really want that on a track bike? How sensitive are they when the bike gets out of shape? If you were to disable that how would you go about it? If you just unplug it most bikes won't run.

Anybody who understands this stuff that can help me figure it out?

Thanks.
 
unplug the lights, leave the tip-over, and add a diode to the side-stand if its in the wiring diagram. if u have a GSXR, wait for someone else here to tell u how to bypass it. otherwise, i think u are good w/ just removing it.
 
stangmx13 said:
unplug the lights, leave the tip-over, and add a diode to the side-stand if its in the wiring diagram. if u have a GSXR, wait for someone else here to tell u how to bypass it. otherwise, i think u are good w/ just removing it.
Click to expand...

What kind of diode?
 
stangmx13 said:
id think the wiring diagram would specify if u needed anything but a generic one.
Click to expand...

That's really the point of the discussion I'm trying to start. The wiring diagram just has the diode symbol. I don't think there's any such thing as a generic diode. Me being an electronic dummy, I'm just trying to figure out how to figure this stuff out.
 
on some bikes the subharness can be unwrapped & the wires for the lights can be removed, if you really want to, as for the rest of the harness unless you have a lot of time on your hands & are really good @ wiring its easier to just buy a "kit" harness for your bike. for the gsxr the "kit" harness doesn't have any of the lights or safety switches in it.
 
I would love to buy a race harness for first gen sv650s if anyone has one. I can do it but I don't have the time, and my harness isn't in the best shape to begin with.
 
mike54 said:
Disabling the side stand switch. A lot of folks just twist the wires together but on a lot of diagrams I see a diode in the switch. It looks to me like it's there to protect the circuit from current flowing from ground. Is it OK to delete this protection? I know a lot of people have been doing this for years with no issues. But that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

Same idea with the clutch switch. A lot of people just twist the wires together but I've been told that this puts the ECU in a different state. That's possible but then I wonder what happens as you're using the clutch while riding.

Then there's the tip-over sensor. Do you really want that on a track bike? How sensitive are they when the bike gets out of shape? If you were to disable that how would you go about it? If you just unplug it most bikes won't run.
Click to expand...

Twisting wires together is asking for trouble. Unless a connection is properly soldered and insulated, it is vulnerable to corrosion, dirt, moisture and vibration. You really don't want a poor sidestand switch wiring bypass connection coming undone while you're at speed. Seriously.

Removing safety features doesn't make you any faster. A tipover sensor serve a purpose. Removing it endangers everybody.

[youtube]ZaOVNqA7lBA[/youtube]
 
Last edited:
Not all bikes are the same. The sidestand switch usually is a simple on/off. Some clutch switches are, some activate a lockout relay, which is what the GSXR late models do. You need to duplicate the relay or keep the stock clutch lever on the GSXRs. Think about this: You can get rid of about four pounds by removing wiring, give or take. Is that really going to make a difference on a track bike? That's maybe a half gallon of fuel. Getting rid of the cat and stock exhaust is the simple way of removing lots of weight and helping performance. There are also tricks for removing exhaust flapper valves. The internet is your friend, every bike is different.
 
ALANRIDER7 said:
Twisting wires together is asking for trouble. Unless a connection is properly soldered and insulated, it is vulnerable to corrosion, dirt, moisture and vibration. You really don't want a poor sidestand switch wiring bypass connection coming undone while you're at speed. Seriously.

Removing safety features doesn't make you any faster. A tipover sensor serve a purpose. Removing it endangers everybody.

[youtube]ZaOVNqA7lBA[/youtube]
Click to expand...

Of course. Twisting wires wasn't to be taken literally. Just an expression of the method.

I'm not sure about the tip over sensor. I've never had a bike with one. I've been told that some times the back end can step out and trigger it. That sounds like a bad thing to me.

I'm not looking to save weight or make the bike faster by disabling any features. Just looking to simplify things a bit.

If I wanted to save weight I skip the cheese burgers and the pancakes.
 
Last edited:
Don't ever remove the clutch safety switch on a new bike unless there is a work around in the ECU. No faster way in the wold to get a new bike in limp mode than thinking the clutch is pulled in.

Unplug your lights, and put some skins on it. Seen more than one bike pop because some jackass messed with the tip-over, but never a single crash that wasn't already a crash when it kicked in.
 
So, when modding a bike for the track keep in mind that the AFM rules restrict what you can do to the wiring harness. Cutting stuff is a quick way to make the bike non-afm legal. Unplug, and make a pigtail where necessary.

side-stand switch: I've seen some bikes with a diode, but it's there to make sure the bike can start in neutral with the side-stand down. Diodes are used so that the side-stand being down wont illuminate the neutral light.

clutch switch: Leave it, unless you're running an aftermarket perch that can't mount a switch. Most modern bike-specific perches will offer a workaround. workaround is usually bike specific. Bypassing this will sometimes throw the bike into a special "clutch is in, change the mapping" mode that you don't want.

Tip-over: Removing this is a fast-track to blowing an engine in a crash. Modern FI bikes can keep the engine running on the side for longer than you want your bearings to run un-lubricated.

The worst thing removing the lights will do is to throw a code and illuminate something on your dash.
 
Last edited:
I have done a few hondas over past decade. my goal is always to simplify where I can. this is my first GSXR. granted the GSXR is a few years new than the last 600RR I did but it was a nightmare in comparison. I dont like the clutch switch. I tend to hit the start button as I walk by putting on my gloves. not realizing that the side stand switch is integral in getting the thing to run I ripped it out just like I would have on the honda. in hindsight I would not have gone after all the switches. but I did figure it all out. I tore the diode out of the sidestand relay and put it inline to the ECU. had to put a relay on the start circut to the ECU along with a 95K ohm resister. anyway it was a nightmare to trace it down. here is what hangs on garage wall
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0198.jpg
    IMAG0198.jpg
    70.4 KB · Views: 12
Burning1 said:
So, when modding a bike for the track keep in mind that the AFM rules restrict what you can do to the wiring harness. Cutting stuff is a quick way to make the bike non-afm legal. Unplug, and make a pigtail where necessary.

side-stand switch: I've seen some bikes with a diode, but it's there to make sure the bike can start in neutral with the side-stand down. Diodes are used so that the side-stand being down wont illuminate the neutral light.

clutch switch: Leave it, unless you're running an aftermarket perch that can't mount a switch. Most modern bike-specific perches will offer a workaround. workaround is usually bike specific. Bypassing this will sometimes throw the bike into a special "clutch is in, change the mapping" mode that you don't want.

Tip-over: Removing this is a fast-track to blowing an engine in a crash. Modern FI bikes can keep the engine running on the side for longer than you want your bearings to run un-lubricated.

The worst thing removing the lights will do is to throw a code and illuminate something on your dash.
Click to expand...

Excellent idea. AFM rules would be a good guideline wether you plan to race or not. The previous owner really butcherd the wiring trying to make the bike track ready.

ircsmith said:
I have done a few hondas over past decade. my goal is always to simplify where I can. this is my first GSXR. granted the GSXR is a few years new than the last 600RR I did but it was a nightmare in comparison. I dont like the clutch switch. I tend to hit the start button as I walk by putting on my gloves. not realizing that the side stand switch is integral in getting the thing to run I ripped it out just like I would have on the honda. in hindsight I would not have gone after all the switches. but I did figure it all out. I tore the diode out of the sidestand relay and put it inline to the ECU. had to put a relay on the start circut to the ECU along with a 95K ohm resister. anyway it was a nightmare to trace it down. here is what hangs on garage wall
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm going to copy that diagram. :)

I think my goal is for the bike to start in neutral only and for the starter to turn over only when the power switch is on. I had a tie down strap contact a starter button on a bike when it was in gear on the trailer. The starter on that bike would engage any time the button was pushed. It was an exciting couple moments until the strap could be pulled away from the button. Lucky it was while loading the bike and not during transport.

I'm undecided about the Tip-Over switch. It is good engine protection.

Thanks again for the input
 
Keep in mind the diagram is not complete. I did things like wire the ignition to the kill switch to get rid of the key and that is not there.

I have the Woolich system on my GSXR that allowed me to just unplug the ex valve and tell the ECU to ignore it. it also has a box to ignore the tip over switch. I have always wondered why anyone would want to do that. never had a problem with a properly wired tip over.

anyway if I can answer any questions so you dont make any of the same mistakes I made let me know.
 
ircsmith said:
Keep in mind the diagram is not complete. I did things like wire the ignition to the kill switch to get rid of the key and that is not there.

I have the Woolich system on my GSXR that allowed me to just unplug the ex valve and tell the ECU to ignore it. it also has a box to ignore the tip over switch. I have always wondered why anyone would want to do that. never had a problem with a properly wired tip over.

anyway if I can answer any questions so you dont make any of the same mistakes I made let me know.
Click to expand...

The diagram might not be complete but it's a starting point for me. The particular bike I'm working on is an 02 GSXR 750. Unfortunately Woolich doesn't go back that far.

Thanks for the offer of advice. I'll probably take you up on it.
 
Burning1 said:
So, when modding a bike for the track keep in mind that the AFM rules restrict what you can do to the wiring harness. Cutting stuff is a quick way to make the bike non-afm legal.
Click to expand...


AFM rules restrict what you can do to the harness in Production classes (basically, no cutting of wires). Superbike and Formula classes it is completely open to cutting/removing wires, etc.
 
rob linders said:
FYI, even the YEC race harness for a Yamaha still uses the tip over sensor. I would encourage you to keep it.
Click to expand...

If only Lorenzo had one at Assen in 2012 :laughing

[youtube]90kzlx9-nx8[/youtube]


I appreciate your input. I've read about problems in other places on the internet but I haven't been able to confirm any actual problems. Sometimes it takes a while to sort out the posters who are in their mom's basement from the posters with actual experience.

I don't have the budget yamaha does to replace an engine. I'll be keeping the tip over sensor until I have an issue with it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top