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Old 02-26-2012, 05:05 PM   #91
two6ryder
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So I was looking at the fluorescent pant by wicked-colors, is that only for airbrushing or can it be sprayed through a can as well. I was kind of confused with what they were explaining. What would I need and what would be the right ratio to mix? I'm looking at the Crisp pearl white, fluorescent green and fluorescent sunburst. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Also, I am thinking of doing the rims in the same color as well. Would it work as well in powder coating?
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:16 PM   #92
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I must pay my respects to this thread, especially the original poster. I probably viewed this one a couple dozen times making sure I followed everything step by step. I pretty much followed it like a manual, except the body came ready to paint with urethane primer. I just picked up in the instructions where you sanded the primer. I also didn't buy the correct U-POL clear. I still used it and it came out okay, but it needed to be color sanded and polished. It really turned out good except for where I burned through in a couple spots. This could be in the gravel trap tomorrow so I am not too worried.

In San Jose I couldn't find anyone to fill custom cans so I headed up to San Leandro Color. No hassle there. They were very helpful and got me what I needed in about an hour.
I used PPG paint 2 cans for each color. They matched the black to R6 black with their computer. I picked the white and blue from some paint books. 5 cans of the U-POL Clear (Not #1) put 4 coats on. I can of U-Pol Primer to touch up where I drilled the mounting holes.

I color sanded with 1500 grit and then hit it with Meguires 105 Ultra Compound by hand 90% of the time. This step really helped since I didn't get to shoot the good clear.

Anyways thanks for the great write up. I am a believer.


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Old 08-27-2012, 08:01 AM   #93
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After doing a test panel as suggested, I am in the process now and so far so good.

I had no idea how much sanding would be involved in removing the prior paint, so here is a timely and extremely stupid question: how important is it to remove the old paint completely?
Where I have removed all paint and primer and sanded down to the plastic it is clearly the best, but it is really difficult to get everything off certain curves and crevices. One guy on a YZF Forum even said "don't even bother removing any thing and prime over it."

EDIT: I think I've figured this out. If you sand down to the plastic, you have to sand down everything (on the piece) down to the plastic. Otherwise you can sand down to just the primer (possibly even just the clear coat off) and make sure everything is even. I'll post pics of the two pieces done respectively.
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:37 PM   #94
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I'm about to get started redoing some panels on my bike, and I was wondering about decals. What are the pros and cons about applying clear over them? The pro is obviously that it's protected, but are there any drawbacks?
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:42 PM   #95
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It's harder to remove them if they're under the clear.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:03 AM   #96
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It's harder to remove them if they're under the clear.
Right. I was more wondering if it's easy to screw up somehow so it'll look shitty.
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Old 09-08-2012, 04:43 PM   #97
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You just need to be careful when applying them. I'm not sure about spray paint but with regular automotive paint you have to make sure that you don't pull the base coat up when you re-position.
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Old 09-08-2012, 09:58 PM   #98
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Reading this...I'm wondering if when I start looking into painting things....if I should start with this and stick with the airbrush for custom/illustrative work. Then again, I already have the compressors, hoses, etc...just not a larger spray-gun.

Either way, it inspires me to start soon. o: *bookmarked*
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:58 PM   #99
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I'm working on my "test panel", and sprayed the clear last night. I got some minor runs and orange peel, but that's why it's practice...

However, when I looked this morning, the runs actually had bubbles in them. Any idea where that came from? I didn't see any bubbles where there weren't runs, so I don't know if it's just that the clear is outgassing and the runs are so thick the gas is trapped and can't get out or if there's something weird going on. I'm using 3M ChromaClear 2600S or some such number.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:38 AM   #100
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Was talking with Reckon through PM's about masking off for different colors/patterns and not sure what masking tape to be using.

I started painting my tank with a flat green(rattle can). I'm going to be following the original F4i paint/sticker scheme with different colors. So I will be painting gloss black wings on the green, then clear coating over just the wings.
I am getting ready to apply the base coat on a bike I'm working on and I wanted to check here to get opinions before I started. I'm at the high build stage and have followed this thread religiously. I will be painting stripes on the tank and seat like the image below.


If you'll notice, there is a silver outline on the black stripe. What I wanted to make sure of was the order that I go through painting.

My plan is to lay down the base coat first (white), then shoot the silver over the whole area of the stripes, then mask for the black to leave a little silver showing. My only concern is what reckon mentioned about the raised edge. Of course, going with the lightest color first and covering that will allow for the coats to be minimal.

The alternative would be to mask the stripe area before I lay down the white base coat, then mask the silver outline off, and finally the black. This way the layers are all even and I don't have to worry about an edge.

Any thoughts or recommendations? Has anyone done something like this with this method?
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:57 PM   #101
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Does anyone know what I can do about all these damn pinholes...


I couldn't get them out of the high build, I sanded down to the acid etch, re-primered and they came back. I figure I could put my base over them, but I was wrong.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:50 PM   #102
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What is the best way to take the decals off?

thanks
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:31 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by motogirlie View Post
What is the best way to take the decals off?

thanks
Hair dryer - warm up the decal and it will loosen the adhesive. Old credit card to scrape. Goo gone for a final wipe.

Of course if the clear coat covers the decal you're hosed
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:59 PM   #104
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Hair dryer - warm up the decal and it will loosen the adhesive. Old credit card to scrape. Goo gone for a final wipe.

Of course if the clear coat covers the decal you're hosed
Thank You!!!
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:44 AM   #105
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Wow, this is a really f'ing nice write-up. The day I get enough sack to paint my bike, I'm going to use this method. Thanks dude.
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