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Old 03-04-2010, 01:33 PM   #1
ScorpioVI
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¿Por qué Baja?

... said my co-worker when I told her I was going to Baja.

"Well... why not?"

"But the crime... the drug cartels..."

And this was coming from a Mexican. My supervisor had his own misgivings when I asked for a week off to run to Baja...

"Man I'm gonna have to find a replacement for you in case you don't come back."

And that's how it began. For the record, this trip happened in late November. But then I had to cut the trip a couple of days short because of a death in the family, and the ensuing grief kinda knocked it out of my consciousness for a while.

What planted the idea? ADVrider.com. I had been lurking on that site for a couple of years, and the Baja ride reports have always caught my eye and had me transfixed. I couldn't shake it. I had to see it for myself.

I started asking my riding buddies if they wanted to go to Baja...

"No."

"Nope."

"Hell no!"

OK then. At the end, only one guy stepped up. Stephen aka Sasquatch. So off we went, two gringos, a white guy who spoke Spanish and a brown guy who didn't. Both of us with limited dirt-riding experience. This will turn out well.

So we set a date, 9 months in advance. I picked a random date from the calendar. November 20th we cross the border, and we'll be back home by the 29th.

We had 9 months to prepare and get our shit together. Sadly it wasn't until two weeks before we were scheduled to take off that we started getting our stuff together. Bikes needed to be repaired, kit organized, tools sorted and separated. We were working on the bikes well after midnight into the day we were supposed to load up and go.

The plan was simple. Truck the bikes to San Diego, cross the border on Tecate on the 20th. Head south, come back. We had a route roughly planned out on a AAA map. A week before we left I got an ominous call from Sasquatch.

"Dude, check out the e-mail I sent you, then call me back."

I call him while simultaneously checking the e-mail. The attachment was the race flyer course map for the Baja 1000.

"So what's up..."

"You see the flyer?"

"Yea what about... OH CRAP!"

It turns out I had planned our trip on the exact same weekend the Baja 1000 was supposed to take place. And the rough route I planned out was the exact same route the Baja 1000 race was doing on the first day.

Not wanting to be the speedbump for the Trophy trucks, we decided to push back our departure date one day, so we cross the border a day after the Baja 1000 starts.

We leave San Jose around 7AM on a Friday, and end up in El Cajon around 2PM. With some time to kill, we decided to just keep driving to Tecate to do our paperwork (tourist permits, etc.). We cross the border, get to El Centro (the town center) and I hop out and start asking (in my crap Spanish) about where to get the tourist permit. I end up at the tourist center and I get...

"No necesitas." Not necessary.

"Esta seguro?" Are you sure?

"Si"

"OK"

We took the time to exchange $1000 into Mexican Pesos, then back to El Cajon where we went to find a place to eat and a place to sleep. We went to a Motel 6 and cajoled the cute chick at the front desk to let us park our truck in their lot. I had problems loading the Bicimapas Mexico maps into my Garming Zumo 550, so I took the opportunity that night to get things squared away.

Also took one last look at all my documentation.

Passport. Check.
Passport card. Check.
CDL. Check.
Registration. Check.
Insurance. Check.
Mexican Insurance (http://www.bajabound.com/ $40). Check.
MedJet Assist (http://www.medjet.com/ $115). Check.
Triplicates of all of the above. Check.
Cash ($500 split up in different pockets/bags). Check.

Time for some shut eye.
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My Ride Reports:
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¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:41 PM   #2
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Our bikes ready to go at the Motel 6 parking lot in La Mesa.



Quick Breakfast at Denny's. And a nice jaunt down 94 from La Mesa to El Cajon to Tecate. We crossed the border (border guards just waved us through), then we blast down MEX 1 to Mexicali.

The night before I talked Sasquatch out of taking the El Compadre trail (dirt) down to MEX 3 because I wasn't sure I could find it. Meh, we rolled right past the entrance. So to Mexicali we went. About an hour west of Mexicali on the Cuota (toll road) we ran into some fabulous twisties.

Sorry for the crappy pics. But a lot of my pics were taken on the fly. I'd grab my Kodak out of my tank bag, point and shoot.

Great views.


Rocks, lots of rocks.


Sasquatch behind me.


What the hell does that say?


Whee!


It's a long way down.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:49 PM   #3
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Taking a breather at some strange shrine thingy...


On the flats about half an hour from Mexicali.


South of Mexicali on MEX5 heading to San Felipe.


Victims of the Baja 1000.


Sasquatch.


Dried-up lake on both sides of MEX5 for miles!




In hindsight. It was a mistake to bypass the El Compadre trail. It was quite a drone on MEX5 from Mexicali to San Felipe, mostly straight line, and getting passed at 90-100MPH by guys in pick-up trucks.

We ran into a Mexican Army checkpoint just outside Mexicali. These kids could not have been older than 16, but they were all armed with CETME rifles (H&K G3 clones) and had poor trigger-finger discipline. The kid that interrogated me had the massive attitude that comes when you combine a weak personality with a powerful gun and unchecked authority. Where are you going? San Felipe. Where are you coming from. Tecate. Etc. I found out later that you were just supposed to give them stickers and they'll wave you right through.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x

Last edited by ScorpioVI; 03-04-2010 at 02:29 PM..
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:05 PM   #4
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Sand dunes.


More sand dunes.


After what seemed like hours on MEX5, we hit a military checkpoint again on the MEX3/MEX5 junction. They waved us thru this time. Another half an hour of straight line lead us to San Felipe. We cruise around town for a while looking for a hotel, then I made a beeline for the gates to something familiar.

La Costa Azul. I had seen Higgy Bs Baja thread just a week before we left and remembered he stayed at this place as well. Can't go wrong.


The view from our balcony.


Looking the other way.


We hurriedly unpacked, ditched the riding gear, and went for lunch on the Malecon. Being a Saturday, the Malecon was pretty lively, especially with the Baja 1000 just having gone through the town. Gringos everywhere, so we fit right in.

The beachfront.


Dolphins, and a really questionable statue of a boy mouthhumping a fish...


We had lunch at a Rice & Beans. Meh. Pass on it next time if you ever find yourself at San Felipe.

Watching the Baja 1000.


The dude with the contraption on his chest made a living by walking around and challenging people to a shock-a-thon. You both hold a rod in your palm, the box transmits a progressively stronger shock, whoever lets go first loses. The dude was calling everybody a "POOOSSSY!" Had me laughing my ass off. Another guy walks in and takes him up on the challenge and I had to hear him yelp "AYI!" everytime he got shocked. LMAO
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:22 PM   #5
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Later that night I took a walk out on the Malecon to check out the sights and take some pics. All the locals were out and partying on the beachfront. And it seems the pastime of choice was driving around in circles on the Malecon.

Fishing boats.




Rice & Beans


Crocodile Bar


Check out the parade of cars...


Tide was low and receded about 200 yards from the beach, I took a walk way out to take this pic.


This was parked outside one of the bars:




Went back to the hotel to find our bikes had company.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:32 PM   #6
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Some trip data.

Day 1.


Elevation.
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Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 02:44 PM   #7
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The next day was our first dirt portion of the trip. San Felipe to Gonzaga Bay. Mileage wise it was only 110 miles or so, half of it dirt, but we budgeted plenty of time for it anyway because we're dirt noobs and planned to take it slow the whole way.

South of San Felipe.


Me.


Beach looked so inviting.


The leg from San Felipe to Puertecitos looked much like this. Houses dotting the coastline all the way down.


Sasquatch in Puertecitos:


Views are starting to make me giddy.


After about a mile or riding dirt, the road turns abruptly back into this. Racetrack-quality asphalt! Apparently they're stretching this road all the way to Gonzaga Bay. Might be a great ride for sport-touring and sportbikes in the future, but I'm afraid the Baja that we want to see will be gone as the tourists come flooding along with this road.


Great views though.


I'm stoked!


Finally back on dirt.


Sweet!
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Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:01 PM   #8
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Unfortunately not long after this we ran smack into the construction area. It looked like a stage from one of those MX racing video games. Massive sand dumps, roads/trails crisscrossing everywhere, unfinished concrete pillars, dump trucks with wheels 10-ft tall, threading our way in between graders and front loaders. They don't stop working or yield to you, you're just expected to ride in between whatever gap you can find. Combine that with soft dirt that's been rutted by heavy equipment and steep drops, it was nerve-wracking. I went into survival mode immediately and didn't take a single pic. We even got lost inside one quarry that turned into a dead-end.

After what seemed like an eternity, and wondering if we were gonna become part of the foundation for the new highway, we popped out back into Baja.

Wheeee!


The remnants of a rest stop/restaurant. The white SUV belonged to some old-timers who've made it a tradition to go into Baja every year. They just rent an SUV from San Diego and drive down the coast stopping wherever they want.


Sasquatch in the distance.


We had the road pretty much to ourselves. We saw maybe a dozen vehicles, tops, on this leg of the trip.


Not long after I took that pic. I took the lead and hammered on. Then noticed that Sasquatch wasn't behind me anymore. I waited 5 minutes, no Sasquatch. Shit. Turned around and found him starting to take the seat off the bike.
http://scorpiovi.smugmug.com/photos/...85_S7omf-L.jpg

Nothing major, one of his battery connectors snapped off.


Another abandoned dwelling.


How's this for a view from your front yard?


Moving on.


Awesomeness!
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:18 PM   #9
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Sasquatch decided to try out the Baja 1000 course for a while. You can see his dust plume in this picture. I gamely followed, until I came up on this 10-ft jump and found myself catching air on the KLR. The KLR is a magnificent bike, it flies like an eagle, and lands like a grand piano. I hastily jumped back onto the main road...


Coming into Gonzaga Bay:


The road heading into Gonzaga Bay:


Our destination was Alfonsinas, a well-known bed & breakfast/ADVrider rest-stop in GB. Problem is there's no signs marking it. But then when I saw the GS on the back of the truck (blown rear shock) I figured I found it.


We hurriedly grabbed a room, dumped the gear, and grabbed some cold beer and margaritas. Alfonsinas from the beach. Our room was just to the left of the stairs.


The water was not even 100ft from our room.


There were whale sharks swimming around in the water, the guy in the orange shorts (he's from South Africa, and owner of the poor BMW) had just come in on the kayak, and was excitedly showing off his footage with the whale sharks going under his kayak.


I fell in love with this place. Honestly I could've spent the whole week here just chilling.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 03:25 PM   #10
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Pictures just can't capture the beauty of this place.




As the sun set, other ADVers started arriving. Two guys from Arkansas on KTMs first, then Andrew and Radek from San Francisco and Vancouver, also on KTMs. The guys from Arkansas had bad luck with tires going flat.


Orange bikes everywhere.



Dinner at Alfonsinas. So good. Camarones en mojo de ajo y burritos con carne y queso.
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Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:06 PM   #11
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Trip data:


__________________
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:20 PM   #12
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This was breakfast the following day (pic stolen from Chainslayer.com). The two gents from Arkansas, me, Andrew from SF, Stephen, and Radek from Vancouver. Andrew and Radek were two noobs who decided to challenge the Baja 1000 the previous year and made a documentary out of it, having had no dirt experience or any motorcycling experience (in Radek's case). This year they were just spectating and going down the coast on their own. They have an awesome website chronicling their adventures at http://www.chainslayer.com/, and we Stephen and I make our appearance on this page and this page.



Since today's leg of the trip was also a relatively short jaunt to Bahia De Los Angeles (112 miles), we decided to take a late start and I took the opportunity to walk around the place taking pictures.





Radek and Andrew ready to head out.


Gonzaga Bay's landing strip. Folks fly in with their airplanes for the weekend, spend their weekend on their beach houses, then fly back to their jobs in California. Malcolm Smith apparently has a house here and does that exact thing, didn't get a chance to meet/see him though.






The friendly Coffee.


Fishing boat coming in with the day's catch to sell to the restaurant.


The bumps and dorsal fins in the water between the people and the boat are about 4-5 whale sharks.


One of them actually jumps out of the kayak, grabs hold of one of the whale sharks' dorsal fin and goes for a ride.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:35 PM   #13
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Back on the road.


The road from Gonzaga Bay to MEX1 was a little sandy/rocky. And I was loving it. I cranked it on and was having a blast drifting through the sandy areas and picking my way through the rocky terrain. The $800 I spent to upgrade the KLR's suspension (with RICOR shock and Intiminators) were paying off big time.


Before I knew it, we were at Coco's Corner. Coco is a Baja 1000 icon. Way I heard it, he just picked this corner of Baja and by Mexican law after you live in it consecutively for a certain amount of years you own the property. Coco has diabetes owing to a poor diet, and has had both legs amputated. Every rider from ADV who comes down to Baja makes it a point to check up on him, have a few cold beverages, give donations, etc.

Pic of Coco's corner stolen from Chainslayer.com


This place reminds me of that scene in Terminator where they come into that Mexican compound with the underground vault full of guns.


Chilling. Coco on the right.


The donations.


Leaving our mark.


Andrew and Radek had issues with their bikes and we caught up to them here. Radek.


Andrew.


This German couple pulled up in this awesome Hanomag.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:57 PM   #14
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Back on the road again, on our way to hit the pavement at MEX1 that will take us down to Bahia de Los Angeles.

Sasquatch leading.


Whee!


This road was the bomb. So smooth, we soon found ourselves cruising at 70MPH on dirt.


We soon linked up with MEX1, and proceeded to BoLA.


Interesting terrain.




No cars for miles. There was a lot of sections along this trip where I was very glad I had a SPOT. Help could literally be hours/days away if we got in trouble.


Nearing BoLA.


Whoohoo!


And finally...


This guy pulled up next to us on the boat ramp. His buggy was loaded with gear, he was on his way to Cabo San Lucas, mostly taking dirt roads all the way down. Not a bad way to travel.


As we were chatting with the dude, a couple of boats loaded with Mexican Marines cruised up. Armed to the teeth and looking serious, I quickly put away the camera and gestured to Steve that it was time to di di mao.

We got a room at the Villa Vitta. This place was deserted, only one other room in this place was occupied for the night.


After dumping our gear and a quick trip into town for beer, gatorade, and snacks, we went back to the hotel for dinner. More camarones.
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:05 PM   #15
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Trip data.


__________________
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My Ride Reports:
Solo On The Carrizo
¿Por que Baja?
A Little Taste of the Alps


Martin Dykier a.k.a. "fifthrival", 9/9/75 - 1/25/03
William James Lockwood a.k.a. "B12Bill/RydTher", 8/13/67 - 4/21/08

"No matter how subtle the wizard, a knife between the shoulder blades will seriously cramp his style." - Vlad Taltos (Jhereg) x
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