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Old 06-06-2017, 12:57 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by stangmx13 View Post
or "the factory knows best" and leaves the adjusters in the stock setting

suspension pros arent infallible. sometimes they make mistakes. sometimes their recommendations arent great. sometimes they dont actually know what they are doing. its taken me years to vet suspension pros until i found one whose general philosophy fits my riding style and who is capable of working on a bike at my level. "set it any forget it" just didnt work for me ever and i doubt itll work for many other riders looking for performance.
AND it's kind of fun to try and learn suspension on a bike. so long as you've got your baseline, you can always go back from where you came from. As you know, change one thing at a time and make a big enough change to feel if it's the right direction. One mistake new riders make when making suspension changes is not making a big enough change to feel if the change was effective.

Kuksul: Suspension is a like a word jumble. There's plenty of letters and combinations, but there's only so many words that can be made from the letters. With Suspension, I can't imagine a scenario where you'd have the rebound dampening open all the way and compression completely closed, and vice versa. That sounds awful. Instead of just turning clickers, think about what the bike is doing that you don't like or want better. Then, think about what you'd change to make it better. If you make a change and things get worse, put the change back and try something different. You'll begin to get a feel for what the changes are doing to the bike and then, make more intelligent changes in the future. Also, work with a good shop to help you with the theory, etc.

A good suspension tuner imparts their customers with knowledge. They know you'll be back to buy some "crack" parts before long. The stock stuff is only so good...and the clickers range on a good shock or cartridge is near double what it is in a stock setup. On a mediocre one it's not worth the money. Hence the reason some manufacturers can sell a cartridge or shock for $600. They're no better than stock...
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:35 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by clutchslip View Post
Well, your needs and level of expertise is far higher than most people. O.P. didn't really talk about suspension that needs replacing, just the number of choices to make it the best that it can be with stock equipment.

If you don't understand motorcycle geometric dynamics and corresponding trail, wheelbase, ride height, etc, you can waste a ton of time doing nothing but getting frustrated. In that aspect, I agree with the concerns expressed in the original post. I think it is more useful to explain to a experienced person your feelings and have them set up your bike. Then you have some baseline that will be appropriate, and can go from there with experimentation.
Naw, the stock SV is so bad most people bottom out the forks on hard braking. It's truly shit, and lots of stockers are like that.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:15 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by GP Suspension View Post
Fourth: while in a wheel chock, play with the front compression from fully stiff to full soft. Bounce on the bike and see what it does each time. Next, do the same with rebound. Put the clickers back to where they were when you started.
What kind of stroke do you look for? After you let go, should the bike simply return to its resting point, or keep extending past that before coming back down? I know riding it is the only judge, but some shops make a baseline setting by just bouncing on it. What kind of stroke action are they looking for when they do that?

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Originally Posted by GP Suspension View Post
Rebound: controls the return stroke of the fork/ shock. More rebound (turning the clicker out, to the left) means a quicker/ harsher return stroke. Less rebound means a softer and slower rebound stroke. This can allow the fork to "pack in" and not return to its full operating length range, decreasing the travel of your fork/ shock.
I agree more rebound = harsher, shorter strokes.........but quicker?

I was always told that "packing in" is caused by too MUCH rebound, since too much rebound does not allow the suspension to fully re-extend in time before hitting the next bump.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:28 AM   #34
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make sure not to get confused when truncating statements. "more rebound damping" and "more rebound velocity" are opposite statements. most ppl mean "more damping" when they say "more rebound", but GP's post went the other way.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:42 AM   #35
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True, when I say "Give it more rebound" I mean "Give it more rebound damping"

Looking back at what he said, he might be using the opposite, since he says "more rebound = turning the clicker to the left", which produces less rebound damping and more rebound stroke.

Last edited by Reli; 06-09-2017 at 11:07 AM..
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Old 05-28-2019, 02:44 PM   #36
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Suspension 101 when you're sick of playing with it, it is right
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