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Old 07-02-2020, 04:43 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by horsepower View Post
True but this guy had EXACTLY to the letter my bikeís problem.
https://www.ktmforums.com/threads/on...g-issues.3400/
I don't see a resolution in that thread. Did he swap dashes with someone and the problem continued? I don't know if it's possible on this model, just throwing ideas out there.
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:24 PM   #62
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[QUOTE=horsepower;10598378]
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Originally Posted by Hank Wong View Post

No, Hank. The problem is that even the ďprofessionals ď werenít sure about what step to take
No kidding! My 1983 XL600 was completely worked over (in a good way) and the PO let it go cheap because it was stalling on takeoffs. Whelp, one day I had it up on the milk crate and like another poster said, the lock to lock did something naughty. The decomp lever was put back upside down and activating it on hard left bar lock.

Flipped it and forgot it. Never stalled again. Good luck!
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Old 07-02-2020, 05:39 PM   #63
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If nothing else works sell it to dove.
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Old 07-02-2020, 07:04 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by scootergmc View Post
I don't see a resolution in that thread. Did he swap dashes with someone and the problem continued? I don't know if it's possible on this model, just throwing ideas out there.
Yah I hate it when a thread fizzles out without a solution
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If nothing else works sell it to dove.
A POS for a POS, hmmmm, naw itís not enough of a steal for him.
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Old 07-02-2020, 10:07 PM   #65
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Found some more threads that said spark plug caps can go wonky. I never go in the right direction with these things but it's always fun to try and figure them out.
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Old 07-03-2020, 07:27 AM   #66
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One more thing Dani: Riding out in the woods I damaged the clutch start wire on the clutch lever. Being the dumb ass that I am, I simply wired it so the bike thought the clutch was in all the time. And, like an idiot, changed a bunch of other stuff on the bike.
Bike ran like crap, I couldn't fix it, put new-to-me ecu's in it and finally took it to the dealer: who had it for 3 weeks and couldn't fix it.

Apparently, it has a detune mode when the clutch is engaged that is not listed anywhere. I replaced the wire and it ran great. You might check this.

I'm still betting fuel pump for your issue. I think my line was kinked for a long time and caused my recent issues.

Why do we like these damn bikes so much?
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Old 07-03-2020, 08:43 PM   #67
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Because when they are good they are so so good!
But man, when they are bad ......

I may have to bite the bullet and take it to Mach 1 since it’s going to need another mapping.
So the plan is :
Assume it’s a new fuel pump and replace
Put in stock pipe and stock filter
Remap
This is what the most experienced mechanics have suggested as the best and quickest solve and thanks to Conan I got the stock stuff I couldn’t find. Wish I had posted up sooner and saved a week of traveling , paying , tuning, Mapping and repairs rabbit holes.
eBay Leo Vince , PC5 and KN.
.
Newest question is that Right side reset that we played with : it had that “Bad gas“ “power” and “standard” option. Should we return it back To the way it was or just mention it to Mach 1.
Also does anyone know what the code on the display was ?
( LEn6th)??
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Last edited by horsepower; 07-03-2020 at 08:49 PM..
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Old 07-03-2020, 09:02 PM   #68
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That code specifies the wheel size. Should be followed by 1882 or something for the wheel size in MM for 17s.

Itís trivial for any shop to test the fuel pump pressure. Donít assume it is without testing it.

Iíd replace the aftermarket parts with stock ones, check all the sensors and wiring for damage visually, do the spark plugs cause youíre already in there and theyíre cheap, then do the throttle calibration, 15 minute idle check, while monitoring the fuel pressure. If it doesnít hold fuel pressure, do the fuel filter and test again, then do the pump once those things are eliminated.

The bike should be on standard or power mode. Bad gas significantly changes the mapping to compensate for desert gas, and will make it run poorly.

If youíre going back to stock mapping, you can just have a zero map put in the PC5 to avoid having to mess with more stuff. There should be no need for a dyno tune if youíre moving everything back to stock / putting a zero map in the PC5.

Last edited by Z3n; 07-03-2020 at 09:10 PM..
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:35 AM   #69
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Lots of good info here, thanks Z3n for some detailed write ups.

I had a similar problem with my 08 690 SMC. It would just randomly sputter, gurgle and die; seemingly under any and all conditions. Most of the time, it would fire right back up; but sometimes it would want to wait and sit for a while before starting back up.

Fuel seemed to be the obvious problem, right? I replaced the fuel pump and and filter, and still the same problem. Researched all the different maps (including ye old bad gas map), built myself the tuneECU cable, etc. This went on for months, and I was about ready to sell it but god damn, when it worked, the bike was phenomenal.

One day, as I had the seat off, some of the wiring caught my eye. One of the bundles of cables that's all run together in the same 'large wrap' running from the main electronics hub behind the airbox had sort of rode up and was kind of between the airbox and frame; and in a place where the seat could sort of pinch the wires with the frame from time to time. I moved the cable bundle lower, so that it was still between the airbox and frame but significantly below the top of the airbox, so that there would be no way the underside of seat could touch it. Problem solved.

Don't know if it'll help, but wanted to throw it out there. Definitely was making me nervous about the bike and took months to figure out, but after relocating that silly group of wires it's been over 6 years of excellent, non-interrupted riding. Good luck Dani!

Edit - forgot to comment about the dash issue. Yes a problem with these models, although I think by 2010 or 2011 they fixed it. While it sucks that the dash flickers, it's simply an issue with the dash's LCD panel (well, specifically how the panel is connected to the circuit board), and has not caused any other problems with the bike. My dash has been flickering for probably 3-4 years, no biggie. There used to be a great write-up on how to fix it, complete with tons of photos, but sadly a year or two ago all the photos got dumped by the image hosting site, so the write-up is not as useful. Totally fine to ride with the flickering dash.

Last edited by plate 181; 07-04-2020 at 08:39 AM.. Reason: Added comments on dash
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Old 07-04-2020, 09:49 AM   #70
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I’m pretty sure that if this was a car (I was a car mechanic for 30 years) you would connect a fuel pressure gauge, and maybe a voltmeter on the pump circuit, and drive until the problem occurred to determine if its a fuel supply problem. Obviously there’s not much room on a bike to hookup gauges, etc, and still be able to ride.
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Old 07-04-2020, 08:31 PM   #71
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Great info from all and thanks.
And I am definitely checking that bundle of wires post from above as Every instinct I have Is that this was electrical and fuel. The dreaded double whammy of rabbit holes.
Canít do much testing now that the bike wonít start at all. So........
Since Conan revealed that KTMs Eat fuel pumps, seeing if thatís why it wonít start is priority one. Ask shop to test. Bikewanker did some research and discovered that stock pumps are flawed and cost $450. A Rottweiler pump is $149 and corrects all the flaws of stock. So I bought one so if the pressure test shows itís the pump , itís going on.
The bike already has new spark plugs , new fuel filter , fresh gas ,a fresh Tune up.
Itís set to Power. So much closer to an answer now, I feel. I hope.
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Old 07-05-2020, 09:44 PM   #72
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Hey Dani,
I had an 690 Duke that generation and had the low tension connector to the coil pack get corroded. Replaced it and problem solved.
Not the same symptoms you describe but worth a try.
Good luck.

I never got why people run Power Commanders on that gen when TuneECU maps are so plentiful and good and you can dial in throttle response ,etc.
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Old 07-15-2020, 08:13 AM   #73
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So do you have an update? Got the problem resolved yet?
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Old 07-16-2020, 08:16 PM   #74
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I asked for them to do the fuel pressure test and Re check All electrical connectors to ensure that something wasn’t missed during the tune up work. And check for any crimping or pinching of any electrical. I also forgot to ask them to see if the throttle valve might have a leak by spraying carburetor spray On it ?

Also , I was awaiting the arrival of the stock pipe, ( from Turkey) stock air filter ( from Italy ) and a Rottweiler fuel pump to arrive. All are here as of today !!!

So .... if it’s the fuel pump I’ll definitely have them install the Rottweiler.
Then the question is now :
Ride as is with Leo Vince K and N and no PC55
Stock pipe stock filter and keep PC5 off ?
Install stock pipe and air box and Reinstall PC5 with a zero map ???
Go to KTM dealer and have them do the four step reset ???
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Last edited by horsepower; 07-16-2020 at 08:18 PM..
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Old 07-17-2020, 09:40 AM   #75
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I had a 990 with stalling issue on downshift/stop. After wasting a lot of time swapping fuel pump, filters, etc KTM finally swapped the throttle bodies. Apparently the secondary servos were acting up causing them to not open/close in a timely fashion, which would definitely cause some weird fuel-air ratios.
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