How I turn standards into modern racers

[motoprotocol]

Dear fellow BARFers, Thank you for your patience. I am a total nini when it comes to interwebs and such. This is a post I started a few weeks ago in the wrong spot. Enjoy =)

Hi there,

A couple of weeks ago I posted a few shots of two café racers I built from Ducati Monsters on the Dreamy Café Racers thread. A fellow by the name of Frame Maker suggested that I post my build shots on this thread, so here I go.

This bike's modeled after Ducati Radical's 9-1/2 so I only take credit for putting my own pizzazz into it. The core design is all Pepo's idea. Apologies for the image quality, it gets better later on when I switch to an iPhone. I'll try to keep the images brief and detailed. Feel free to ask anything, I always love to share info and knowledge. Each bike takes me around 500 to 800 hours of solid labor to complete. That includes parts design, fabrication and even some research, etc. =)

In this batch I'm stripping the bike and figuring out where the 999 fuel tank is going to live. I also chopped off the OEM sub-frame and tacked on the fuel tank forward mounts. Next I'll post the new sub-frame and the relocation of most of the electrical components, see you soon...

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 2

Thank you for all you help Julian!

Alright, here we have the new sub-frame being patterned and tacked on. Also the 3 custom brackets that will hold all the electronics.

One of the brackets is a modified OEM battery tray. I cut it, bent it and welded it to be able to use it on the bracket that's welded to the frame. The reason I use the OEM battery tray is because it has a very convenient ECU and fuse box mount that work very well for this situation.

The third bracket holds both coils, the Reg/Rectifier on a carbon fiber tray (Mosfet) and the EFI/Ignition relays. This bracket is mounted on rubber grommets.

Lots of milling to remove as much material as possible.

The battery tray bracket is welded on to the frame's forward cross support member and the coils bracket is mounted on to two OEM mounts located on the rear support cross member. I can't remember what they originally hold, maybe the air box?

I've also seen the electronics mounted on to the cylinder head which is totally fine, that's the way it is from factory. The key here is to eliminate the air box and switch over to air pods for the intake. If you're into air boxes and need every pony you can get, the battery can also be located in the tail section, it just takes a bit more design and planning, but it can still end up very sexy.

Next, we tackle the front end (many trips to Motowheels for fitting), finish welding the frame, and a little engine work while we wait for the powder coaters. At this point, this project is somewhere very close to halfway or just past that. See ya soon...

 

[gixxerjeff]

Cool stuff.
(waiting for more!)

 

[budman]

In

Nini...

 

[kpke]

Another subscriber here. Very nice work.

What is the black finish on the two fabricated parts on the third to the last photograph?

 

[IL8APEX]

LOVE those 9 1/2 builds, the 999 tank and the tiny tail are a good look.

Subbed! A super light air cooled track build is definitely on my "someday" list.

-T

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 3.1

Well, first off, thank you all for the replies. I appreciate knowing that you're all into this stuff. Most people look at me and think I'm some crazy looney with too many tools. =)

Hi Ken, that finish is Dupli-Color EDE165407 Engine Enamel with Ceramic, Flat Black, 12 oz. cans. I usually buy a box of 12 or I get them from O'reilly's. Dupli-color is the only paint I use. It's not cheap but it's worth every penny IMO. The tail on this bike is painted with Dupli-Color sandable primer, white. The owner is having it painted by a friend. Same colors, I think.

Ok, I've got more than 10 photos for this episode so I'll have to post twice.

After having a rough idea of where the new electronics will live and so on, I disassemble the harness, remove all electronics, remove the fuel and induction systems, etc. and remove the frame from the engine for welding. Once the frame is being powder coated, the engine can be easily worked on. That's when a valve adjustment is done, changed the flywheel, clutch (if necessary), shift detent (factory pro, must have), clutch springs, new timing belts (always) etc.

Next it's re-assemble and front end work. There's two to three planes that need to be addressed when fitting a front end. Sometimes there's even four planes to account for! And that's just for the front wheel and brake caliper mating. Needless to say, your brain will hurt but you'll sleep like a baby.

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 3.1

For this project a 999R front end was chosen. New tapered roller bearings, triple clamps and a Ohlins steering damper were also fitted. Fitting this front end requires three sets of special parts. 1. A machined axle spacer to center the wheel and brake rotors within the calipers (and the fork legs) 2. A pair of brake rotor spacers to center the rotors within the calipers & 3. A set of brake caliper spacers to align the pads on the rotor's surface. I hope this makes sense. =)

The first shot shows the caliper spacer which aligns the pads so that they land on the center of the rotor's friction surface. They are both the same size, top and bottom. I used Brembo T-slot brake rotors with a 15mm offset for this build.

Next is the rotor spacer used to align the rotors inside the caliper. I use aluminum spacers for this. It's basically a washer that places the brake rotor a bit further away from the wheel. In order to compensate for modern "Radial" brakes. You need a full size lathe for this part since the outside diameter is a few inches. Sometimes they have them in stock at motowheels.com, or on eBay (#huskyrestoration) but either way, they need to be fitted/shaved in order to be exact. You'll need a lot of patience, you will have to assemble and disassemble a bunch'a times to get it right. It's like gun-smithing on a large scale. I use feelers and measure the gap between the brake rotor and the caliper pistons (when pushed all the way in). This usually aligns the caliper right on center with the rotor. The key here is to make sure that both pistons are applying force evenly by spacing them equally. I work on the axle spacer at the same time. I start with a larger OEM spacer or one I've made from stock material and machine it until it centers the wheel in between both calipers.

This bike has two wheel sets so this had to be done twice. Each wheel-set got its own axle spacer and rotor spacers. Both wheels are running the same Brembo rotors so the caliper spacers can be used on either. I hope you're all still awake. arty

I always switch all related hardware to Titanium hardware form ProBolt, especially the ones I have to lengthen in order to make up for the new spacer's dimensions. Dinner time, see ya soon!

 

[kpke]

Nice update Adrian. I stayed awake through the whole thing

Great attention to detail.

Back to this paint... "Dupli-Color EDE165407 Engine Enamel"

A recent engine rebuild I did I used store bought "engine enamel". The fuel petcock and one of the carburetor float valves leaked and spilled gasoline onto the painted upper engine case. The paint did not hold up to the gasoline at all.

Is the Dupli Color gasoline proof?

Maybe or hopefully you haven't had the pleasure of testing it.

 

[bobl]

Nice work. I'm impressed. Subscribed. Thank you for sharing.

 

[motoprotocol]

Thank you! =)

 

[motoprotocol]

Duplicolor Engine Parts Ceramic Spray Paint

Hi Ken,

Thanks a million for the kind remarks. The answers is yes. I painted the tank, front fender and seat on this bike with Duplicolor Ceramic and it has held up really well, for a couple of years now. I've spilled fuel and even over sprayed brake cleaner a bit. Just don't rub it if you do. Wait 'til it dries and then clean it with simple green if you see any residue. Of all rattle can paints, I have to say that this brand is by far my favorite. If you happen to use the ceramic paint as a finish coat on body panels, be sure to give it a good wet 1500 final sand to make sure it's nice and smooth. This will give you a strong and uniform semi-gloss finish.

Also, on a side note. I usually use Motul chain cleaner to clean almost everything and anything unless it's getting sand blasted or polished.

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 4

Hi there, I hope everyone is healthy and newly oiled!

Apologies for taking so long to re-post, I've been neck deep in the RZ350 frame build by Julian. WOW!

Anyway, this is a real quick one. I will post again soon, I promise. We're almost done here! This week it's the front number plate and speedo mounting. Also the exhaust, which happened to be quite easy on this project. The gods of speed threw me a bone on this one.

This bike came with a full Remus exhaust system. I removed the silencers and welded on a set of megaphones which I think sound more "old-school twin" and a bit more appropriate than the Remus which is a more modern less throaty sound. I also removed like 10 pounds of weight! These were sourced on eBay for around $50 each so the client isn't worried about cutting one off and re-welding a replacement if needed.

After much aligning and walking around staring at these things, I get my tacks on. I usually walk away for a short while and come back before welding something like this. That way I can take a second look at it with fresh eyes. This method always works well for me. I've also made sure that the rear wheel can be removed and replaced without touching the exhaust pipe at all.

I added a couple of tabs to reinforce the parallel space between the megaphones, this way they stay parallel and are unable to rattle or shift into each other. I also used the factory exhaust mounts with OEM bushings. The last image shows the boot guard which I made later on. This part was originally the air shroud located under the OEM lower triple clamp.

All oil containing bolts are safety wired or externally adhered with silicone. I use E-6000, they claim it's permanent but trust me, it isn't. It's perfect for banjo bolts and anything you can't drill for safety wire. It is clear, it doesn't rip off your paint on removal or damage surfaces and generally lasts around a year or so before it begins to degrade and harden, mostly depending on whether it is exposed to a lot of UV light. I learned this trick decades ago from Jen at Die Werkstatt, if you think it's crazy, go tell her.

Up front, I begin work on the "cock-pit". The speedo was rubber mounted on two steering damper brackets, purchased on eBay. Unfortunately, they didn't have these in black so they will have to be anodized later on. These brackets will also serve as headlight holders in the future. There's also a Carbon Fiber plaque (to hide the cables) below the speedo that serves as a lap timer or smart phone mounting platform.

The lower portion of the number plate is mounted on a small bracket placed behind the OEM "brake line clamp" attached to the lower triple clamps. This clamp was cut smaller and milled, it used to hold the OEM headlight as well. The carbon fiber arm serves double duty as an air temperature sensor mount. This entire lower mounting bracket can also be made out of a solid piece of aluminum, if needed.

Brake lines will be swapped later on with shorter 999 replacements. I also had to reinforce the Brembo brake fluid reservoir bracket with a small piece of Carbon Fiber sheet. The aluminum piece they sent was way too wobbly on its own.

The top of the number plate is zip tied to the Speedo and two small dabs of E6000 keep the corners from flopping around. Can't make it any lighter than that!

I noticed on Julian's thread that he goes into great detail to show how he makes his parts, which is awesome. I want to add that, even though I don't use CAD for making parts, I usually make most by hand, I do go through a lot of the same processes. I often times have to make a part 3 or 4 times until it fits perfectly and looks sexy enough. Measuring twice doesn't always mean you'll succeed. I have a couple of boxes full of scrap hand-made parts! This process is not all science, as there is also a ton of art involved. The more parts you make, the easier it gets and the better they'll look, fact! Maintaining your patience while being frustrated is an essential skill to have as a builder and a rider, IMHO

Next post I will show how I custom fit the belly pan. This method can be used to virtually fit any pan to any bike. It's a bit laborious, with regards to fitment, but turns out very nice. I will also post the making of the seat and tail section and all related parts. Believe it or not, it takes the most amount of work to make this section. Minimalism is not easy, I have great respect for Scandinavian designers.

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 5.1

Sup Sup BARFERS!

First off, a couple of shots of some research. The first boot shield I used was way too small so away it went. The new one worked very well.

Next shot is a faux peg. Its purpose is to allow the shock to be switched using two jack stands to hold the bike up. The Sato rearset blocks access to the bottom shock mounting bolt. This peg allows you access while providing support for the stand. It's the little details that matter. I also modified a two-side Ducati Pitbull stand so that the rear wheel can be sequestered for torqueing on and off.

So here's how I do belly pans. Very often you order one of these things and the builder makes random holes in it, or they don't line up with anything rational. Even if you make your own pan, never mind stressing over hole alignment. In the case of Ducatis, there's just not enough room to mount it on the engine without making the material around the hole way too weak/thin.

What I do is fabricate small carbon sub-brackets. They tend to look better than regular bent steel mounting kits. The key here is to use cardboard to mock, thin carbon fiber sheet for final (2.5 or 3 mm) and be patient. I use an angle grinder until the end when I do minor adjustments with sand paper and a diamond file. In the end, it makes for a super tight fit and it all seems pretty cohesive.

For the last shot of this episode, I'm showing the shock. I mounted the preload adjuster onto the rear cylinder exhaust valve cover. Using a two-sided 6mm OEM stud originally used to mount the battery tray, in the same area. This makes preload adjustable while you're sitting on the bike. The lines will be shortened later on, after track testing and assessment of the rear spring's stiffness. This shock was built by Houston SBK. It is the model sold with the S4Rs I believe. It took forever to get it, but it was worth the wait.

 

[budman]

Nice .... great photos too.

 

[kpke]

Another nice update. More great fabrication stuff. Thanks!

Have you mentioned where your shop is located?

Would you mind having visitors?

 

[motoprotocol]

Thank you Budman!

Hi Ken, I'm located in Sacramento. I work out of my home garage but I'm always open to anyone who wants to come by. I'm easy to reach on Instagram @motoprocol

I'm near the Arden Mall. There's a bike night out here in the summer, about two blocks from my house. It's at the Jamba juice every Thursday and it sounds like they're running the Sacto Mile when it's going down. If anyone wants to stop by and ride out, or meet up there, hit me up, I'll race you on my Grom!

Hey I was reading Julian's RZ350 thread the other night and saw your two-stroke R1 build. I had actually seen it on Instagram a few weeks before. Iconic motorbikes posted the pictures. Impressive stuff!

 

[kpke]

Maybe stop by on a bike night in the summer, eh? Or attend the welding class that was mentioned.

This one?

It's a 1985 RZ500 with a couple of R6 parts hybridded on.

 

[motoprotocol]

That's the one! What a build!

You're welcome to join in on the welding fun any time. We'll keep you in the loop. Yeah, as soon as the time changes in the spring, I think they start having bike night out here. I'm game

 

[motoprotocol]

How I turn standards into modern racers 5.2

Well, we are at the final episode. I meant to post this one right after 5.1, hence the 5.2 denomination but got a little busy with my Grom which I will also post next.

For the finale, I saved the seat. Mostly because I was in the middle of moving houses and didn't have time to take on this portion until I was a bit more situated and comfortable.

First two images are the mock-ups of two tail sections. One is my own design, named Shizuoka 4.0, and the other is a standard café racer wasp tail. Very similar to the original 9 1/2's tail designed by Ducati Radical. After presenting both to the client, Shizuoka was decided on.

Next shot is some of the materials used. For small one-off pieces or prototypes. I don't make molds, I just create the part out of presentation board, and encase it in fiber-glass or carbon fiber. Then I give it the good ol' surfboard treatment. After about 4 or 5 coats it's almost perfect and ready for a tiny bit of body filler (or more resin, either way is fine) to fill in the remaining micro holes from air bubbles. You have to do a few coats of resin, otherwise you'll start to wear some areas of the part down too far.

Lots of patience as always. I try to wear a respirator at all times, especially during the first sanding sessions. I use a 4 inch grinder to get as close as possible to the desired outer shape and then a foam block with 80 grit at first and 120 at the end to shape it. No need for anything finer until you start painting. Once I start the priming, I switch to 400, 800, and 1500 at the end. I only use these grits wet. I use Duplicolor Sandable Primer which is the finish you see on the final product. For this tail I used 5 cans of primer. 5 coats, fully sanded, working my way from 400 up to 1500 wet.

The seat pan is made from a 10 mm carbon fiber sheet. The cushion is made from EVA foam also in 10 mm. The main seat bracket is made of 3/16" aluminum flat bar. TiG welded, then machined to clean the welds for a tighter fit. The seat is held in place by a two part system. The other being a carbon fiber bracket that mounts onto the aluminum bracket, squeezing the seat in between the two. The aluminum bracket has two 6 mm Riv-Nuts and some rubber gasket to help grip the tail section in place.

The tail section goes attached to the seat and the seat mounts onto the subframe with two 6 mm Allen bolts.