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Painting Race Fairings - recommendations?
- Thread starter MOTOGSXR
- Start date
cg_ops
1-Armed Bandit
Just DIY if you can. My friend just painted her bike with rattle can pain and it came out nearly professional looking! Paint n primer in one, too!
https://www.oxymoronphotography.com/Motorbikes/Racing/AFM/2018/Round-1/913
(Max, believe she bought her pics but if linking to them is taboo, let me know and I'll remove it)
https://www.oxymoronphotography.com/Motorbikes/Racing/AFM/2018/Round-1/913
(Max, believe she bought her pics but if linking to them is taboo, let me know and I'll remove it)
russ69
Backside Slider
How about a wrap?
You're right, looks like it came out great! I was actually thinking of doing the same by buying cans from a local auto paint store in aerosol cans but thought I'd ask if there are some places that will paint for you at reasonable costs because I'm getting lazy...LOL
I thought about it but don't want to wrap myself - I've never done it and I'm not sure I'll be up for the challenge to get it all applied correctly around all of the corners, bends and contours. I do plan on adding vinyl to certain areas instead of painting the designs but that's nothing compared to wrapping the entire bike.
fubar929
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2003
- Location
- Mountain View, CA.
- Moto(s)
- 2015 KTM 1290 Super Duke R, 2018 Ducati Supersport S
Bobby Keith at CycleFinish used to be the guy to use and he had semi-reasonable rates for single- and two-color paint jobs.
ontherearwheel
New member
The key to any quality paint job is prep. I wet sand with 220 or 320 depending.
Then put down a sealer, then wet sand again.
Rustlolem ultra 2x is next. The stuff is great for track body work. The keys to laying down good paint is conditions, speed of moving spray can, distance to panel, flash time between coats.
Takes about two days-prep, sand and sealer one day, lay down paint the next. I always moved the body work into the sun to help cure the paint.
Dry to touch and being cured is two different things.
Having someone do it does put you on there time schedule also, so how quick you need it done matters.
It really is pretty simple, just a lot of sanding before painting. Just sand paper, water supply, and paint.
If you do decided to do it, get a flexible sanding block to use. It provides a flat surface for the sand paper to be against. If you just use your hands to sand you will get high and lows spots because your the fingers are not flat. Trust me on this........
Then put down a sealer, then wet sand again.
Rustlolem ultra 2x is next. The stuff is great for track body work. The keys to laying down good paint is conditions, speed of moving spray can, distance to panel, flash time between coats.
Takes about two days-prep, sand and sealer one day, lay down paint the next. I always moved the body work into the sun to help cure the paint.
Dry to touch and being cured is two different things.
Having someone do it does put you on there time schedule also, so how quick you need it done matters.
It really is pretty simple, just a lot of sanding before painting. Just sand paper, water supply, and paint.
If you do decided to do it, get a flexible sanding block to use. It provides a flat surface for the sand paper to be against. If you just use your hands to sand you will get high and lows spots because your the fingers are not flat. Trust me on this........
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Thanks, I looked him up and reasonable pricing for race fairing paint. I'm really considering him at this point.
Thanks for all the tips!!! I've never painted anything before but I'm good with my hands mechanically. If I put the time and money into it I think I can do it.
Do you know if there are any durability or finish differences between a spay can vs. a jar of paint and a sprayer? If I go the sprayer route I'd have to invest in the equipment - that means I'll need to be painting more in the future. LOL
cg_ops
1-Armed Bandit
Thanks for all the tips!!! I've never painted anything before but I'm good with my hands mechanically. If I put the time and money into it I think I can do it.
Do you know if there are any durability or finish differences between a spay can vs. a jar of paint and a sprayer? If I go the sprayer route I'd have to invest in the equipment - that means I'll need to be painting more in the future. LOL
In my experience with rattle can vs sprayer, in terms of amateur skill and end result:
HVLP paint + clear coat > Rattle can paint > HVLP paint
I have a Wagner Flexio so it's not exactly suited to automotive finishing work. But i've gotten good results if I finish with clear. If I just spray on paint with it, I have a hard time getting surface uniformity.
ontherearwheel
New member
All depends on the paint. Google House of Kolor, Colorite. They offer both and both are quality paints. I've used both......one spray gun, one can......good results from both. But again it's prep.
The main difference between cans and spray gun is adjustability mostly. You are in control of everything using a spray gun. What, how much reducer.....based on temp...., air pressure, spray fan pattern and size.
Using a gun you will also need mixing cups, paint strainers.
The air supply needs to be clean and no moisture in it. A have a filter and dehyrdater system that has a pressure regulater on it to keep a steady 50 lbs to a regulater on the gun to set final pressure at the gun. I have a main supply of about 110 to the filter/dehydrator.
I have on gun that is setup for primer, one for color. Primer/sealers usually need a larger nozzle.
With a can.....its get the paint warm in the sun......shake, shake, shake....and shake a lot during spray. I use a attachable spray handle for spray cans. I use a test panel to get a feel for how it's sprays.
The spraying method for both is the same. Same distance on all passes, overlap passes. Move the spray can parallel to the surface. Do not move to slow .....you will get runs.
Start spraying off the surface, then move onto the surface, then once off the surface stop spraying.
Repeat allowing for some flash time. The paint had two parts, the color and a medium used to carry the color in a spray. This medium evaporates, leaving the color. If you don't wait, you will get bubbles.
Starting with spray cans will give you some experince about painting before moving on the a decent spray setup...it does take some investment.
Cans or guns.......prep is the key. The trick with cans is knowing when to stop using the can. Unlike having a steady air supply like with a gun, the longer a can is used, the air pressure decreases. At a certain point.....the spray quality drops off.
Oh Google flames and such to see what can be done with spray cans.
The main difference between cans and spray gun is adjustability mostly. You are in control of everything using a spray gun. What, how much reducer.....based on temp...., air pressure, spray fan pattern and size.
Using a gun you will also need mixing cups, paint strainers.
The air supply needs to be clean and no moisture in it. A have a filter and dehyrdater system that has a pressure regulater on it to keep a steady 50 lbs to a regulater on the gun to set final pressure at the gun. I have a main supply of about 110 to the filter/dehydrator.
I have on gun that is setup for primer, one for color. Primer/sealers usually need a larger nozzle.
With a can.....its get the paint warm in the sun......shake, shake, shake....and shake a lot during spray. I use a attachable spray handle for spray cans. I use a test panel to get a feel for how it's sprays.
The spraying method for both is the same. Same distance on all passes, overlap passes. Move the spray can parallel to the surface. Do not move to slow .....you will get runs.
Start spraying off the surface, then move onto the surface, then once off the surface stop spraying.
Repeat allowing for some flash time. The paint had two parts, the color and a medium used to carry the color in a spray. This medium evaporates, leaving the color. If you don't wait, you will get bubbles.
Starting with spray cans will give you some experince about painting before moving on the a decent spray setup...it does take some investment.
Cans or guns.......prep is the key. The trick with cans is knowing when to stop using the can. Unlike having a steady air supply like with a gun, the longer a can is used, the air pressure decreases. At a certain point.....the spray quality drops off.
Oh Google flames and such to see what can be done with spray cans.
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fubar929
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2003
- Location
- Mountain View, CA.
- Moto(s)
- 2015 KTM 1290 Super Duke R, 2018 Ducati Supersport S
Good HVLP spray equipment is expensive and there's definitely a learning curve with it. I'd budget a minimum of $1000 if you don't own any equipment already. You can get cheaper turbine-based HVLP systems but they all have huge compromises. Keep in mind that you also need somewhere to spray. Do it in your driveway and you're going to find that in addition to paining your fairings you're also painting your house and cars with the overspray. If you spray in a garage, you need to make sure that dust and other debris can't settle on the paint before it cures.
I own almost every tool under the sun... but this is one of those jobs where I know enough to know I should pay someone else to do the work.
moto-rama
Well-known member
Red is faster, and corners better, too.
Gixxergirl1000
AFM #731
- Joined
- Oct 30, 2006
- Location
- Stockton
- Moto(s)
- GSXR-1000; GSX-R 450 Triple race bike "Timmay"; GS 500 race bike "The Murderbike"
- Name
- Connie
Contact AFM racer Robert Brittain. His company, MotoGloss, does fantastic work.
http://www.motoglosspaint.com
http://www.motoglosspaint.com
scratchpad
Active member
For what you want
DIY : Go to NEDs or somewhere similar and get some good rattle can and supplies. Like others have said preperation is key, additionally, there is a process. Pick their brain and youtube until your brain hurts. Its time consuming. Youll be proud of how good it turns out.
OR
MAACO : Cant beat $300. Your time and what good supplies will cost you are more than this.
DIY : Go to NEDs or somewhere similar and get some good rattle can and supplies. Like others have said preperation is key, additionally, there is a process. Pick their brain and youtube until your brain hurts. Its time consuming. Youll be proud of how good it turns out.
OR
MAACO : Cant beat $300. Your time and what good supplies will cost you are more than this.
ontherearwheel
New member
AB Supply in Fremount is pretty cool. They will match the color you want in spray cans.
They have a eBay site to give ya a idea what they got. Great selection of sand paper and sand blocks and other repair stuff.
They are also a dealer for Roth that comes in cans if ya want a sparkley bike.
BTW, what I described is just for painting track body work a base color not show quality which would require a clear coat.
That's what I did for by R1 track bike. Just color......no clear for protection. Most paint jobs are two parts.....base color coat, clear coat for protection and shine or not.
They have a eBay site to give ya a idea what they got. Great selection of sand paper and sand blocks and other repair stuff.
They are also a dealer for Roth that comes in cans if ya want a sparkley bike.
BTW, what I described is just for painting track body work a base color not show quality which would require a clear coat.
That's what I did for by R1 track bike. Just color......no clear for protection. Most paint jobs are two parts.....base color coat, clear coat for protection and shine or not.
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Thanks everyone for the recommendations to the paint shops. I tried calling both Cycle Finish and MotoGloss neither of them are answering after multiple attempts. I emailed them both but still waiting on a response, we'll see if they respond.
I think in the end if they don't respond I may just have to suck it up and do it myself and I guess it'll be good knowledge and skill to pick up so I can fix my own stuff if I go down (crossing fingers I don't...LOL).
I think in the end if they don't respond I may just have to suck it up and do it myself and I guess it'll be good knowledge and skill to pick up so I can fix my own stuff if I go down (crossing fingers I don't...LOL).
JHicks
Basically Homeless
Rattle can bro.
ontherearwheel
New member
I've found that the hardest part of any project is getting off my ass to do it. There is a whole world of information out there on how to do stuff.
About sanding.....do not sand in just one direction....you'll get sanding ruts.
Sand in cross patterns. Sand one direction a few times, then 90 degrees to that than back 90 degrees as you move around the panel.
You can use a dual action type sander.....orbital palm sander. I do my final sanding by hand.......it's a zen thing........kinda like the sand garden.
Bet those guys are busy........most people just drop the stuff off and wait for the call it's ready.
About sanding.....do not sand in just one direction....you'll get sanding ruts.
Sand in cross patterns. Sand one direction a few times, then 90 degrees to that than back 90 degrees as you move around the panel.
You can use a dual action type sander.....orbital palm sander. I do my final sanding by hand.......it's a zen thing........kinda like the sand garden.
Bet those guys are busy........most people just drop the stuff off and wait for the call it's ready.