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Wheel chock... am I dork?

Frame Maker

Frame Maker

New member
Joined
May 8, 2011
Location
Livermore
Moto(s)
sportbikes, dirtbikes, and some odd bikes that I've built myself.
Name
Julian
A few years ago I bough a generic wheel chock as a secure way to aid in transporting bikes to shows. I noticed that it was easy to roll the bike in, but then the tire would become wedged in place and it would then be difficult to remove the bike. My solution at the time was to weld a bar onto the articulating portion such that I could step on it and get it to rotate enough for the tire to come loose and bike could be rolled out.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago I got a second wheel chock (different brand, but similar type mechanism). Yesterday I used it to transport a moto from Reno back to Livermore. Last night when I went to unload the bike the wheel had become completely wedged into the chock making it VERY difficult to remove the bike.

So what am I doing wrong? I know that there is some adjustability for different wheel sizes. Right now its adjusted for the smallest wheel size which I thought would be ideal for the 16" wheel/tire size on the mini Ninja I was transporting, but it still got tightly wedged in.

Am I the only one with this problem? What Am I doing wrong?

20230121_153646 by andbike, on Flickr

20230122_123233 by andbike, on Flickr
 
Weird. I've not had this problem with my Baxley Sport chocks or the generic one that looks very much like yours.
Are you pulling your tie-downs too tight? You don't need too much tension with a wheel chock, especially if it's bolted down, like yours.
 
With the bike I transported yesterday I did have the tie downs "snug" but not super tight. I also discover today that tire pressure was very low which may have contributed.

That said, my other wheel chock is used with a bike stored in my shed with no tie downs. Sometimes it will need extra "motivation" to come out of the chock. That one I have the helper bar welded onto. So I donno:dunno
 
I keep 2 bikes in the house, sitting in chocks. I have to pull/yank them out initially, if they've been in it for a while.
Pretty normal, I guess.
 
Everybody I know that has those Cyclegear chocks has this problem. My buddies and I solve it by draping a microfiber rag across the thing that binds.


My Baxleys don't bind.
 
I’ve seen your build threads, you are not a dork!
 
My R1 stays parked in that same chock. It's not bolted down and I have to use a pry bar on the tire to get it out carefully using the front brake while standing at the front of the bike as it releases from the chock. I have 3 other brands that don't do this BUT they are all secured so I can give a good hard pull to get the tire out. I may try the towel method on that cycle gear one.
 
I too have had generic roll on wheel chocks to transport to the track and for garage use. I had the same issue. The day I bought a Baxley, those troubles were over. I have had zero “sticking” issues.
You aren’t doing anything wrong, it’s just the wheel chock you have.
 
Yea, Trackside chocks stick like crazy b/c they have grippy paint - grippy paint + grippy rubber = PITA to pull the bike off. Lots to back/forth to break the "bead" of the tire/chock. Putting a towel between the tire and chock is what I do and is what I see most people doing.

You could also spray it with bedliner - it's tough, durable, and far less tacky than the rubbery-feeling paint that the Trackside (and similar) products use.

Perhaps some one of my 1-armed adaptations could help.
-If I'm solo, I usually have to stand on the feet of the chock and rock the bike back/forth until I hear it break free. Then stand on the left side, put a foot on the nearest foot of the chock, and pull in a jerking motion. Hit the front brake as soon as it climbs up/on the tilting part, hit the brake and stop the inertia so I can reorient and safely move the bike.
- Put a shop rag between the top "V" and the tire, so the tire sticks to the towel, not the chock
- Strap the chock down or put dowels behind it; for example, 2x4's against the feet and the wheel wells of the truck to keep the chock in place as you try to pull the bike off
- If 2people are doing it, one pulls the bars up/back and the other stands on the chock to stabilize it and pulls up/forward on the wheel/spokes to help break the grip
- If all else fails, kick it to work out the frustration and try again later, hopefully in colder weather
 
I tried everything , “but the rag trick” on mine and by the time I got the bike out I was to tired to go riding.

I welded a small pneumatic hydraulic arm, like used on svu hatch backs.

It works great but the rag would have been a lot less work. Next time!
 
What about letting a little air out of the tire before removal? Or is that not the part that's suffering stuckage?
 
Before you try to pull the bike back out of the chock, rock it back and forth to break the adhesion between the front tire and the wedge.
 
the thread title just begs a response...

no, you are not a dork, just a nutcase. Castcase? Nutframe?

You know who you are. You rock.
 
Since you're a welder, maybe attach a long post to give you leverage to pull the wheel cradle back?

My guess at the physics is that while you are rocking the bars back and forth, the leverage to pull the cradle back is just from the tire.

If you added a foot long lever (I'd imagine there is also a clearance issue with the bike) it would make it easier to move.

Even stupider is attaching a hydraulic piston to this contraption. But if it works and you can do it...
 
Also even more radical: why do you need a wheel cradle in the first place?

My roommate has several large rubber wedges. If you were to keep the front cradle, used a wedge behind the wheel (I would probably tie it down), then all the straps, wouldn't that be good?
 
Try moving the adjustment at the pivot point back one hole.
I had the problem on my HF wheel chocks and finally made the adjustment and it made all the difference!
GL!
DT
 
Tally Whacker said:
My buddies and I solve it by draping a microfiber rag across the thing that binds.
Click to expand...

I like the rag /towel idea. I'm gonna try that:thumbup



bikewanker said:
I’ve seen your build threads, you are not a dork!
Click to expand...

Butch said:
the thread title just begs a response...

no, you are not a dork, just a nutcase. Castcase? Nutframe?

You know who you are. You rock.
Click to expand...

You guys make me...:rofl



sanjuro said:
Since you're a welder, maybe attach a long post to give you leverage to pull the wheel cradle back?
Click to expand...

Thats exactly what I did with my first chock. I can step on it and it will add enough pressure to release the wheel. I also put a small block of wood under the tire so it doesn't wedge all the way down.




dtrides said:
Try moving the adjustment at the pivot point back one hole.
I had the problem on my HF wheel chocks and finally made the adjustment and it made all the difference!
Click to expand...

I recall doing some adjusting with my first chock. Not sure if it helped, then I ended up welding a helper bar to the pivot.




Thanks everyone. I appreciate the suggestions:thumbup And yes, I know who I am... and sometimes dork does come to mind.:teeth
 
It does not look bolted down. A similar chick on my Kendon need a good yank. Since it is secured it does come out cleanly with proper force.
 
Let some air out!
A dab of lube on the tight spots might help; but clean it off afterward.
 
Last edited:
Jim..... No lubing the dork. Please :laughing
 
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