Keith Code
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Not to be sassy at ya but that is common knowledge, kinda up there with counter steering- plus that's a bit off topic from my question ^^. You're talking about what needs to be done to efficiently maintain corner speed/line once you've made the corner and are already turning. Besides, on the track or spirited street riding you'd probably want to apply more than 5%, after all, you don't want to stay in a 50/50 posture, more like a minimum of 40/60 (suspension works better/more stable).
I'm more curious on Keith's position on throttle control (relating to both questions) as you're trail braking and while you've already begun to turn but haven't reached full lean. I know there are times I have been trail braking all the way to my apex while applying a bit of gas at the same time to stabilize the bike and lighten up the front end.
My normal track situation is to be easy (brakes), very hard, finishing with easy trail braking while I start to turn in and then before I reach max lean angle I'm off the brakes, coasting, until the bike is fully turned and my goal lean is reached - then I stabilize the bike with a tad of throttle and slowly add more as the bike continues to rise out of the corner.
The question then remains, if someone wanted to try the advice of always braking or accelerating with no time in between what is the best way to go about it? If you apply too much throttle, including maintenance throttle before you're at max lean you unload the front, lose some contact patch, and therefore can't turn as quickly.
I'm thinking the best answer is to never mess up your braking, entry speed, or turn/apex so the second your done braking the bike is turned and you're on the gas. However, how often do us mere mortals get everything 100% right every single time? My second best answer would be to crack on as little as 1 mm of throttle which should still keep some load on the front but make the transition to further stabilizing the bike and driving out of the corner easier/smoother/faster.
Of course, my answers might be jibberish so I am asking Keith O_^.
11B,
Sorry, I just got this post, we've been out doing schools for two months.
It would be easy to duck out of this by noting that in MotoGP, when they run the gas and brake graphs on screen that you never see both the gas and the brake on at the same time, which is true, and see if you buy that but it sounds like you are looking for more answer than that.
It's funny because I just wrote an article about this aspect of riding that just last week came on the stands in "Motorcyclist" magazine for my column.
Can you get away with gas and brake? Yes.
Is it productive to try and shift weight off the front end under braking? You'd have to have a hell of a lot of throttle on to overcome even a mildly aggressive use of the front brake.
Could there be some other benefits? Yes, especially on bikes that have sloppy EFI systems or mis-adjusted ones that give you a sudden lurch when you try and get the gas back on, it could help make the transition smoother. (But the best thing for that is not developing another riding technique but to get the bike fixed so you don't have to).
For sure, in order to maintain a transfer of weight to the rear once you've turned the bike, you have to have a roll on. Most often, rider's hesitate on their roll on because the bike isn't yet pointed where they are happy with the result of their line or are simply uncertain about the line.
The hesitation to get the roll on started, in other words turning the gas on and holding it a moment is a solution to that. That's not horrible but you are right, they made some other slight error prior to that so it is a make up action or, in this case, no action. It does prevent an early weight-shift to the rear tire.
What you are left with is saying to yourself that it takes extraordinary skill to get it all perfect or to continue to practice putting all the factors together of really accurate turn entry speed judgement, trust in the tires that you can turn the bike a little quicker and still maintain traction and good enough visual skill to make it all happen. There are a few factors.
The braking tamplate that you are on to is most definitely the way to go. Straight up or trailing the brakes later into the turn, there must be a gradual release of the level or turn entry speeds will always be inconsistent, usually too slow.
BTW, it isn't just the contact patch that is helping the bike turn in a little tighter when weight is on the front, there are several other factors, again, I wrote some stuff about this in my "Morotcyclist" article, take a look at that and see what you think.
Does that give you some direction?
Keith
- plus that's a bit off topic from my question ^^. You're talking about what needs to be done to efficiently maintain corner speed/line once you've made the corner and are already turning. Besides, on the track or spirited street riding you'd probably want to apply more than 5%, after all, you don't want to stay in a 50/50 posture, more like a minimum of 40/60 (suspension works better/more stable).