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TL1000R, any good?

Gonna bump this because I got a TLR.

One thing I'd like to clarify; on my first tank I got 36mpg, and on my second I got 38mpg (and this is adjusted for speedometer error). Someone commented earlier that I'd expect sub-30mpg ratings, but I could probably get 40 out of it if I tried.

The speed is just stupid. Instant power, any gear, any RPM. I've discovered it has a throttle retard on it in the 1st-4th gears that's easily bypassed. But while it's not bypassed it makes it a bit twitchy, which is noticeable.

I plan to hit up Dave Moss to get the suspension set up for me. I've only taken it on the freeway thus far as well as the occasional quick turn through town and it seems to hold its line pretty well. The real test will be finding out how quickly/slowly I can toss it around in the tight stuff.

It seems to have a lot of common problems that are well known and fairly easily fixed. The TL forum is a wealth of information. The PO experienced a leaky gas tank gasket that he had replaced, but 3 days after I got it gas started leaking again. I took it apart, put on some liquid gasket, and it's been good since then.

My biggest complaint is that it's a heavy bike and I'm a light guy. I'll hold onto it for at least a couple years, but I'd think twice before buying another bike that's pushing 500lbs wet.

But you really can't beat the sound :teeth
 
Congrats riddler...if you don't mind my asking, what was the condition, what did you pay?

Don't tell me it still has the stock rear damper.

While it may have been slightly better than the piece of junk on my TLS, it's still a sorry excuse for a shock.

Don't have to twist the throttle very far to get big push do you!

That's the fun.

Remember that a rear tire change from stock will really help turn in, (180/55 or 190/55).

Enjoy.
 
TheRiddler said:
Gonna bump this because I got a TLR.

One thing I'd like to clarify; on my first tank I got 36mpg, and on my second I got 38mpg (and this is adjusted for speedometer error). Someone commented earlier that I'd expect sub-30mpg ratings, but I could probably get 40 out of it if I tried.

The speed is just stupid. Instant power, any gear, any RPM. I've discovered it has a throttle retard on it in the 1st-4th gears that's easily bypassed. But while it's not bypassed it makes it a bit twitchy, which is noticeable.

I plan to hit up Dave Moss to get the suspension set up for me. I've only taken it on the freeway thus far as well as the occasional quick turn through town and it seems to hold its line pretty well. The real test will be finding out how quickly/slowly I can toss it around in the tight stuff.

It seems to have a lot of common problems that are well known and fairly easily fixed. The TL forum is a wealth of information. The PO experienced a leaky gas tank gasket that he had replaced, but 3 days after I got it gas started leaking again. I took it apart, put on some liquid gasket, and it's been good since then.

My biggest complaint is that it's a heavy bike and I'm a light guy. I'll hold onto it for at least a couple years, but I'd think twice before buying another bike that's pushing 500lbs wet.

But you really can't beat the sound :teeth
Click to expand...



The bike isn't as heavy as it feels. It has track ergo's, your riding on the street. Change the ergo's to be right for where your riding it (or don't complain). This means street fighter converson to the handle bars, toss the clip-on's.

As GAJ said, get rid of the 190/50 rear tire and put a 180/55 on. Miracle Woo Hoo, the bike seems lighter because it has the better profile for your use.

There is nothing wrong with that OEM rotary damping rear shock, for your use. Dave Moss will (should) set it up, and give you the most graphic example of the difference between running around on non-correct adjustments and correct adjustments. The shocks rebound adjustment should end up being max or next to Max stiff.

The triple tree clamps should be dropped down your forks, 1/2 inch would be good. I'd install a Scotts damper first though.

You have a very special bike there, but unless you prep it for your use, You have the dog in the handling dept. that the bike testers gave the bad reports on that killed that bike.

What it is depends on You.
 
The condition was practically pristine; one maybe 5mph lowside on the right, so it has just a couple scratches. I traded my car for it, but in dollar amount it'd be pretty close to $2800.

I haven't had a problem with the rear shock thus far. What I've noticed with the suspension compared to my F3 is that it handles large bumps better and small, frequent bumps worse.
 
looked at TL/Rs but ended up with a superior bike, RSV-R 1000

:flame
 
If I switch to a 180 rear tire, will I get a warning prior to lowsiding? On my F3 with a stock tire I scraped footpegs before I reached the end of the tire. I'm concerned that going to a narrower tire won't allow me as much leeway.
 
TheRiddler said:
If I switch to a 180 rear tire, will I get a warning prior to lowsiding? On my F3 with a stock tire I scraped footpegs before I reached the end of the tire. I'm concerned that going to a narrower tire won't allow me as much leeway.
Click to expand...

Yes, all TLs have a lowside warning light on the dash.


You scraped pegs on your F3 because you still had feelers on, the suspension was junk, or a combo of both. If you are worried about a 180 being too narrow, just keep a 190 on there regardless of what 95% of TL owners already figured out.
 
wsmc831 said:
Yes, all TLs have a lowside warning light on the dash.


You scraped pegs on your F3 because you still had feelers on, the suspension was junk, or a combo of both. If you are worried about a 180 being too narrow, just keep a 190 on there regardless of what 95% of TL owners already figured out.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure any bike today comes with the relatively "flat profile" 190/50 tire that was stock on the TL's.

Switching to a 180/55 was a large improvement...but now you can also try the 190/55 which seems to be the new standard size on literbikes.

Wait until you need to change so that you can appreciate the quicker steering feel that results.

$2,800 sounds like a darned good price.

Any upgrades to it, (ie. power commander, springs, stainless brake lines etc)?

Oh, and, of course, pic?
 
wsmc831 said:
Yes, all TLs have a lowside warning light on the dash.


You scraped pegs on your F3 because you still had feelers on, the suspension was junk, or a combo of both. If you are worried about a 180 being too narrow, just keep a 190 on there regardless of what 95% of TL owners already figured out.
Click to expand...

I did have the feelers on, and I never had the suspension set up for me. I ask because the TL forum (TLzone.net) is split on the issue. But very few guys on there have racing experience (i.e. know wtf they're doing), while many riders here do.

GAJ said:
I'm not sure any bike today comes with the relatively "flat profile" 190/50 tire that was stock on the TL's.

Switching to a 180/55 was a large improvement...but now you can also try the 190/55 which seems to be the new standard size on literbikes.

Wait until you need to change so that you can appreciate the quicker steering feel that results.

$2,800 sounds like a darned good price.

Any upgrades to it, (ie. power commander, springs, stainless brake lines etc)?

Oh, and, of course, pic?
Click to expand...

It has a power commander and a full Yosh system. It also has Galfer SS front brake and clutch lines. There's a fender eliminator (which I wouldn't really call an upgrade) and LED turn signals. There's also frame sliders installed, and I stuck on an ASV lever on the clutch side since it engages so far out and I prefer it to be closer to the bar.

A couple quick pictures from my garage:

IMG_1354.jpg


IMG_1353.jpg


IMG_1352.jpg


Ignore the fact that there's a red rim stripe only on the rear tire. I'll be taking it off. It's too thin (5mm vs. 7mm), so I need to buy a thicker one to apply to both.
 
Very very nice Riddler; congratulations!

The power commander is a big deal to have; without it TL's have iffy fueling.

Did you get the stock pipes just in case our legislators pull some kind of "OEM exhaust only" crap on us?
 
GAJ said:
Very very nice Riddler; congratulations!

The power commander is a big deal to have; without it TL's have iffy fueling.

Did you get the stock pipes just in case our legislators pull some kind of "OEM exhaust only" crap on us?
Click to expand...

The PO gave me the stock headers, but he didn't have the stock cans. I figure if necessary I could find a set easy enough from out-of-state. But I'm pretty sure my exhaust is illegal anyway. While the bike never had a CAT, I thought any modification of the exhaust was already illegal.
 
That bike is so BEAUTIFUL Wow I'm amazed.

Hope You Put Street fighter conversion on to sit right, and 180/55 tire on so combining sitting right with the right tire profile, You can get that "lowside" nonsense out of your head, because all your problems are because being on that bike in it's stock form you don't have the critical body leverage to really be in control.

The fueling thing is just at the inital crack the throttle, which complicates smoothly leaving any stop, like intersections, or any very difficult low throttle, struggle, where finesse is extra critical, like wet corners or snot of any kind. Dan Kyle made the map for the Power Commander I bought from him, So...I don't know if all aftermarket maps do it or what.

I'm very interested in how this bike developes for you. And what you think after the suspension is set for you.
 
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TheRiddler said:
The PO gave me the stock headers, but he didn't have the stock cans. I figure if necessary I could find a set easy enough from out-of-state. But I'm pretty sure my exhaust is illegal anyway. While the bike never had a CAT, I thought any modification of the exhaust was already illegal.
Click to expand...

You can just bolt oem cans back on, the headers are stock.

The rear damper is fine for light street use, but get's pretty useless when it get's hot...springs are pretty soft as well.

Unless you are about 5'8" you'll probably want a double bubble windscreen so you can see the guages.

I went to a 55 series tire in 99, far superior handling to the 50 series. Road 2's are the BEST set of street tires I've ever had on it and I get about 7k miles out of them.

oem steering damper is as big a pos as the rear damper.


They take a fair bit of money to get sorted, but the motor is worth upgrading the package around it.
 
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