-
ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
- It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again
1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
- animals, though free re-homing is ok.
- anything illegal.
- drugs, legal or not.
2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:
- Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- make [MANDATORY]
- model [MANDATORY]
- year [MANDATORY]
- Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
- mileage
- title info
- current condition
- maintenance history
- accident history
- location
- If selling riding gear, include:
- size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
- in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
- DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
- Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
- Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" (
) option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
- With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.
3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!
- Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
- Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
- Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
- Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
- Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958
4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad
- Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
- If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
- If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
- If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.
5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF
- Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.
BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
- If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
- We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (15 days and 15 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.
6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
- No reposting
- No reposting
- No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.
7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
- Is not allowed.
8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
- Is no longer allowed.
If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
-
ZERO- WHERE DID MY AD GO?
- It has likely been deleted for running egregiously afoul of the rules below. Feel Free to try again
1- DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SELL THE FOLLOWING ON BARF:
- animals, though free re-homing is ok.
- anything illegal.
- drugs, legal or not.
2- Sellers, for best results... please read and follow these instructions:
- Asking price [MANDATORY] in the BODY ONLY.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- make [MANDATORY]
- model [MANDATORY]
- year [MANDATORY]
- Pictures [FIRST THING THAT WILL BE ASKED FOR IF YOU DON'T, BUT NOT MANDATORY]
- mileage
- title info
- current condition
- maintenance history
- accident history
- location
- If selling riding gear, include:
- size in the title of the thread. [MANDATORY]
- in your post, include: intended gender/body weight/height/inseam/waist range that best fits the item.
- motorcycle or other vehicle:
- Do not include the price in the title. You won't be able to edit it later. Put the price in the body of your post.
- DO NOT INCLUDE LINKS TO 3RD PARTY SALES SITES Copy/paste your ad to BARF and make sure it includes the info above.
- Edit your original post and change the price there... many buyers will not look beyond that point if you change the price later on further into the thread. Also, remember to add SOLD to first line of the first post when the item has been sold.
- Please use the "Report this post to a moderator" () option at the lower left portion of the post if item is sold or to report erroneous posts or threads, and it will be taken care of.
- With any indication that an item is sold, the thread will be locked by moderators. It is not fair to other valid ads to be pushed down the list when side discussions bump a sold ad to the top of the list. Moderators will do their best in changing the title and adding a 'sold' to the beginning of the title to save a few clicks for others.
3- Buyers, BEWARE!!!
- Pricing - Know the current market value of the bike. Check Kelly Blue book, NADA, CycleTrader, Ebay, Craigslist (even though some people on Craigslist are asking non-realistically high prices and will never be able to sell the bike at their asking price), and know what the current market value of a similar bike is before considering a purchase. Consider the maintenance work or fixes that YOU need to do to the bike, and factor that into the price. It is ok to pay more for a bike that has had all of the maintenance work done to it recently, or pay less and get a bike that needs some work, but you must know this in advance and be ok with it.
- Inspecting the bike: if you are not experienced yourself, have a mechanic or an experienced friend check the bike before making a purchase. Crashed bikes:This is even more important if you are buying a bike that is being sold at a cheaper price with damages that the buyer is required to fix. In these cases, doing a frame check that will show any frame/fork/geometry damages is HIGHLY recommended. Do NOT simply rely on the information that the seller is providing, even he/she may not be aware of all the problems. Have the crashed bike checked and know what you are getting into.
- Clean title, Salvage title A clean title doesn't mean the bike is free of serious issues. A Salvaged title doesn't mean the bike may have any problems. Every case is different. Some bikes are seriously damaged in a crash, but an insurance claim is never made on them, so they still have a clean title. Some bikes have had mostly cosmetic damages in a crash, but the insurance company decided to pay off the bike and salvage the title rather than spending the money to fix it. Know what you are getting into and don't make any assumptions based on what the seller is telling you.
- Registration: Know about the current registration status of the bike. Check with DMV if you have any questions about any possible back fees and other title/registration questions (out of state title, no title with bill of sales only, etc.) before purchasing the bike.
- Some additional tips: You can find some more useful info here: http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=216958
4- DO NOT make your opinion known in the seller's ad
- Comments within a sale thread should be on topic and educational. Aggressive critiques and inside jokes will not be tolerated. Constructive dialogue is a valuable feature of the barf classifieds section and community as a whole. Flame wars and unsubstantiated accusations help neither seller or buyer. Don't fuck it up, because the next step is disabling the "reply" feature entirely.
- If you disagree with a price, keep it to yourself. The seller has set the price. If you don't like it, don't buy it and move on. If you really feel strongly about it, then PM the seller.
- If you are interested in an item, feel free to PM, email or contact the seller privately. Feel free to post if you need clarification... however, your post should be in line with above mentioned rules.
- If you are aware of a serious issue with an ad (SPAM, stolen goods, a frame damaged bike being advertised as a 'never crashed' bike, etc.) please PM a moderator about it.
5- DO NOT SPAM the classifieds section on BARF
- Spamming entails using only the classifieds sections of BARF without taking part in other sections of BARF (regardless of whether the ad is for a personal item or a business.) The appeal of BARF classifieds is to enable and connect BARFers with some established history on BARF to one another.
BARF isn't craigslist, ebay, cycletrader, etc. Buyers who are looking to buy from random strangers do so on one of the above mentioned sites. Those who only post in Classifieds sections and don't take part in other parts of BARF are no different than any other random sellers on Craigslist, etc., and should use channels other than BARF to try and sell their items.
- If you're affiliated with a store/shop, please contact budman regarding sponsorship options. ALL non-sponsor commercial posts will be deleted. Site sponsors should post using only one account that is assigned a BARF SPONSOR tag.
- We encourage the use of the classifieds by active contributing members. New members may post in the Classifieds forum after establishing minimal history on BARF (30 days and 30 posts). If you actively attempt to circumvent these minimum requirements only to post in classifieds, your account may be suspended. After reaching these minimums, posting only in the classifieds without taking part in other sections of BARF may result in being banned from BARF.
6- DO NOT repost funny/strange/not-related-to-you ads from Craigslist or elsewhere on BARF or anywhere else for that matter.
- No reposting
- No reposting
- No reposting. If what you're about to post isn't for sale BY YOU, don't post it.
7- SELLING FOR A FRIEND:
- Is not allowed.
8- Feeler, Testing Waters etc:
- Is no longer allowed.
If you are unsure of the fair price of your item, use the search function to research other similar items, ebay, craigslist, nadaguides, kelly blue book or whatever else is applicable. The classifieds section is not a discussion forum, thus not the place to be asking for opinions on market value that might lead to massive gray areas of conversation that violate preceding rules outlined above.
-
There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.
WTB: Vintage Stereo Tube Receiver — Marantz 2270 or better, maybe McIntosh, etc.
- Thread starter datniche
- Start date
250mL
Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2002
- Location
- Snohomish, WA (from Vacaville, CA)
- Moto(s)
- '00 Ninja 250 (no more), '88 YSR50 (no more), Honda Spree (no more)
Those Marantz receivers don't run on tubes.
I've got a 2285B with walnut case sitting at home waiting for a worthy set of speakers to come my way.
Can I ask what speakers you plan on running?
I've got a 2285B with walnut case sitting at home waiting for a worthy set of speakers to come my way.
Can I ask what speakers you plan on running?
I'm not claiming to know very much about these (because I don't), but my dad is the original owner of a 2270 and it definitely does have tubes. I just have a pretty nice set of Polk bookshelf speakers that ran me around $400. The 2285B doesn't use tubes?
Let me do a little research because I don't know anything about it. Price?
Thanks guys.
Ducky_Fresh
Treasure Hunter
Those receivers just look cool.
Can you modify them or add an adapter to run HDMI somehow?
Can you modify them or add an adapter to run HDMI somehow?
Ogg
Oggito ergo sum
Reasonable depending on what tubes you want in it. The shipping will be a little ugly, but it's just collecting dust these days. Used to be the stereo in my shop when I had an amp business
PM me and we'll see if we can work something out.
They sound cool too! No clue on the HDMI.
PM'd!Reasonable depending on what tubes you want in it. The shipping will be a little ugly, but it's just collecting dust these days. Used to be the stereo in my shop when I had an amp business
PM me and we'll see if we can work something out.
Also interested in a Pioneer SA 8800 or 8700!
250mL
Member
- Joined
- May 23, 2002
- Location
- Snohomish, WA (from Vacaville, CA)
- Moto(s)
- '00 Ninja 250 (no more), '88 YSR50 (no more), Honda Spree (no more)
I feel bad coming in here and don't mean to be an ass.
Please excuse me if I'm just being picky, but I'm just trying to help since it appears you don't have a full understanding of the equipment.
My knowledge of vintage electronics is also very, very slim, but I do know some terms to throw into a Google search.
general Google searches:
tube vs solid state
separates (pre-amp, or amp, or tuner) vs integrated amp (pre-amp and amp, no tuner) vs receiver (pre-amp, and amp, and tuner)
Per your own ad, your title states what you are looking for, but none of your own suggestions meet your own criteria. Only the Scott 340B is a tube receiver.
Scott 340B = tube, receiver
Marantz 22xx series = solid state, receiver (this vintage know to be most "tube-y" in sound)
Pioneer SA8800 = solid state, integrated amp
A question to start you off and help refine what it is you really want... What is going to be your source (radio, CD, Ipod, internet, television, DVD, etc)?
I now believe I'm tapped out of anymore "useful" info in regards to your hunt. Without more Google searches, we've reached the bottom of my bucket of vintage electronics knowledge. Best of luck.
As for HDMI... These vintage units should be able to handle the audio portion with the appropriate adapters, but I don't know how well it'll sound though. I'm pretty sure there's nothing you can do about the video signal. These are stereo units, not A/V units.
Please excuse me if I'm just being picky, but I'm just trying to help since it appears you don't have a full understanding of the equipment.
My knowledge of vintage electronics is also very, very slim, but I do know some terms to throw into a Google search.
general Google searches:
tube vs solid state
separates (pre-amp, or amp, or tuner) vs integrated amp (pre-amp and amp, no tuner) vs receiver (pre-amp, and amp, and tuner)
Per your own ad, your title states what you are looking for, but none of your own suggestions meet your own criteria. Only the Scott 340B is a tube receiver.
Scott 340B = tube, receiver
Marantz 22xx series = solid state, receiver (this vintage know to be most "tube-y" in sound)
Pioneer SA8800 = solid state, integrated amp
A question to start you off and help refine what it is you really want... What is going to be your source (radio, CD, Ipod, internet, television, DVD, etc)?
I now believe I'm tapped out of anymore "useful" info in regards to your hunt. Without more Google searches, we've reached the bottom of my bucket of vintage electronics knowledge. Best of luck.
As for HDMI... These vintage units should be able to handle the audio portion with the appropriate adapters, but I don't know how well it'll sound though. I'm pretty sure there's nothing you can do about the video signal. These are stereo units, not A/V units.
brichter
Spun out freakshow
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2004
- Location
- On the bleeding edge
- Moto(s)
- Fast & Dirty!
- Name
- ID Thief!
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 1108554
Tube amp? How much power you looking for?
Be prepared to slim that wallet down some...
Be prepared to slim that wallet down some...
I more threw in "tube" and "vintage" as keywords, not absolute requirements. I just know my father's Marantz 22xx series receiver does have tubes. I'm fully aware the Pioneer isn't tube. All I'm in need of is a pre-amp and amp, the tuner is unnecessary. But a receiver will do the trick. My sources will include a turntable and computer.
my parents had a marantz amp when i was a kid and i looked much like the ones shown above. i'm pretty sure it was donated to goodwill. mostly i just wanted to make people cry.
tuxumino
Purrfect
yeah if you're gonna run a "vintage" amp+preamp/receiver you're gonna want a good turntable and cartridge.
When you play a analog master recording on analog system it will sound as the engineer intended.
Don't forget the most important stereo component is the room.
Ducky_Fresh
Treasure Hunter
They should make new receivers with this throw back look...
brichter
Spun out freakshow
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2004
- Location
- On the bleeding edge
- Moto(s)
- Fast & Dirty!
- Name
- ID Thief!
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 1108554
An old pic of my current 2 channel system... I had to move away from the cabinet. The amp might be for sale if everything works out this weekend... 
Last edited:
timwu12
Member
- Joined
- Aug 9, 2009
- Location
- Mountain View
- Moto(s)
- '01 Ducati 996S Tricolore, '15 Ducati Panigale R
- Name
- Tim
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 2821644
An old pic of my current 2 channel system... I had to move away from the cabinet. The amp might be for sale if everything works out this weekend...
Are you talking about the McIntosh power amp on the very bottom? If so, I'm interested!
brichter
Spun out freakshow
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2004
- Location
- On the bleeding edge
- Moto(s)
- Fast & Dirty!
- Name
- ID Thief!
- BARF perks
- AMA #: 1108554
Yes, that's the one, MC2105.
Trying to swing a deal on a couple of MC275s this weekend...
Trying to swing a deal on a couple of MC275s this weekend...
Diezel
كافر extraordinaire
I have personally be gifted with the hand me downs of a bunch of Marantz amps. None of these are "Tube": 2235, 2245, 2252, 2265, 2230, 2270, 2275, 2320.
The reason many "non-audiophile" might think these were tube amps. They had HUGE transformers in them, and some serious capacitors in them (usually in pairs) and held by rigs that may look "tubesque".
An example: Marantz 2265
Last edited:
wazzuFreddo
WuTang is 4 the children
I need to fix the Yamaha receiver I have from 1977. One channel keeps cutting out.