Desert to the Crater to the Sea

[oobus]

Eventually we ended up in a creek bed known as the Painted Canyon Wash which was rutted up, sandy and not easy to ride for me with my back heavy bike. I ended up loosing the front end at around 10mph with my left foot caught under the soft bag. It was about 10am by then and already hot and strangely humid. After I got the bike shut off and before I got my foot unpinned I was wondering if anyone would carve a nice headstone for me if I ended dried up under the bike.
Got my foot out from under, righted the bike and got going again. This sucked. We ended up coming out of the creek bed and a few minutes later were on the "main drag" dirt road heading next to the railroad tracks and to Gerlach. We were sitting there catching our breath and getting a drink, we were both a bit worn by this point. As we are sitting on our asses, we see another bike heading our way from the East at a fast pace. Another KTM. This one was a Super Enduro, with two hard bags on the side, bedroll on the back. Wish I would have gotten a picture of the guy, but he was wearing a old one piece that looked like it was insulated and had been slept in. The rider had a huge smile and was obviously glad to see someone. Out by himself on the way from Ely he had been on the road for a couple of months and was heading back to Oregon for some endure. He started out in Washington State and had been thru Arizona and was now doing the Nevada Desert. He was 70 years old. Again I felt like a wimp, and was in awe of his grit. We were all going to Gerlach for fuel and he said he might see us there. As he sped away I told my bud "we will not catch him in town". Sure enough he had already fueled up and was gone.

 

[oobus]

By the time we got fueled up, had lunch at Bruno's and sequestered 1/2 of their ice reserves it was 1pm and was hot. We headed out to the north to hit the Fly Geyser and then were to head up Fly Canyon and out to Cedarville.
Get to the entrance to the Geyser, and no luck. Closed. Locked up. Patrolled 24/7. The internets never said anything about NO ACCESS. Fuck me.
At this point we would have to head back 10 miles to pick up the road to Fly Canyon or Solder Meadows. We were already sweaty sacks and tired. We continued on up the road which apparently would end up in Cedarville. I think it was road 34. What an awesome dirt road! Started out winding up thru a small green canyon and then ended up on some long ass high plains marblie gravel. Came out thru Cedarville(beautiful, clean town).
We left for Alturas(ugly, dirt place) out running a storm and ended up shacking up in the Super8. After a big meal and shower, I was asleep by 7:45.

 

[explorin]

i wish i saw this sooner.. fly geyser was purchased by the burning man company and you can not go out there nor do they want you out there.

 

[WoodsChick]

A few random thoughts…

Never ever underestimate the old guys!
They've been doing it forever and know all the tricks
I learned that after getting smoked in the desert by a 70-year-old man on an ancient Husky with a completely bald knobby. I was much younger and faster then, too Seriously, no knobs down the middle. I have a photo somewhere. You wouldn't believe it.


If I were there I'd totally carve a headstone for you.


The desert is a harsh mistress. GPS is nice to have, but it's always smart to have good maps, and a good eye for terrain and such. I always carry a little pair of binoculars. They're tiny but powerful and they have helped me tremendously while route-finding in the vast expanse of the desert.


Your humility and sense of humor are refreshing!


I am not happy about some of the changes that Burning Man has brought to the desert. The purchase and closure of Fly Ranch is one of them.


As you came down into Surprise Valley, just before reaching Cedarville, you passed Surprise Valley Hot Springs on your left. Stay there next time. A little more pricey than the Super 8, for sure, but the private hot springs tub on the patio of your room would have been great after the day you and your buddy had! And breakfast in Cedarville.




Looking forward to more!



WC

 

[oobus]

As you came down into Surprise Valley, just before reaching Cedarville, you passed Surprise Valley Hot Springs on your left. Stay there next time. A little more pricey than the Super 8, for sure, but the private hot springs tub on the patio of your room would have been great after the day you and your buddy had! And breakfast in Cedarville.




Looking forward to more!



WC

Didn't know or we would have stopped, sound fantastic! When I got back was talking with one of the local "farm hands" and also told me about a place up in Ravendale called Spanish Springs Ranch which was a 70,000 acre working "dude" ranch. Looked it up and this is what I found:

http://www.californiaoutdoorproperties.com/listing/spanish-springs-ranch

Looks like it got cut up and is for sale . And to think someone could sell their 2,500sq ft. house in SF and pay cash...

Next morning we got out and on the road by 8am, made a right turn on Crowder Flat road and headed North twards Clear Lake in the Modoc Nat. Forest. Of course we had to stop at the Lassen trail sign and at the Lookout overlooking Clear Lake. One thing to note: every person I've met at a Lookout is pretty lonely and loves to talk. Guy was up there for weeks on end with his three dogs. Actually would be a good job for the summer to catch up on some reading, watch nature etc. I've yet to find someone who is a Lookout that has their significant other with them?

 

[oobus]

After the lookout we turned onto Clear Lake Road which connected to 139 to Klamath Falls. At the end of Clear Lake Road, I believe at this point, we had spend 1/2 of the miles traveled off road! Note: while the scenery was beautiful, the bike still felt sketchy on the gravel with all the weight in the back.

 

[oobus]

About noonish we pulled into the Klamath Falls Walmart so my riding buddy could get a new air mattress. Probably was 90 degrees which is quite warm for the area. I didn't want to unload stuff off the bikes and didn't need anything so I stayed outside next to the building in the shade. Half way down the building a Harley rider was sitting in the shade as well, wearing "biker" boots, leather vest and tee shirt, he looked worn out. Very nice newer Harley was up on the sidewalk. As I do, started up a conversation, where you going, where you coming from etc.
Grit.
Guy stayed at the same Super 8 as us the night before hiding out from the storm! Pulled his bike inside so nothing would get ripped off, that's why we didn't notice the bike. He left a couple of hours after us and still bet us to Walmart. I proudly told him that we had come from THE BLACK ROCK DESERT IN THE HEAT.
He said, "yea, it was a hot son of a bitch the last few days wasn't it, when I left Vegas it hit 118 out in the desert on my way north to Reno". He had one of those Easy Rider flag helmets that have no face shields, he wore sunglasses. Told me that it was hot, but would have been worse a few years ago when he weighed 80lbs more, and was glad he dropped all the weight. Very nice guy, had a couple of hours and he'd be back home in Medford. Shit, thought I loved to ride, got nothing on him. Wish I would have got a pic of him.

Hit the road and headed up thru Fort Klamath to Crater Lake. I had never been there before and my partner wanted to do the East Loop. Turns out, too much snow and that loop was not open. Didn't matter to me I just wanted to finally see the damn lake and cool off in the snow. I kid you not, it was uncomfortably warm until we got up to the lake and were surrounded by snow.

 

[HadesOmega]

Wow cool journey, aren't those mountain bikes going down the hill? Good thing you had a riding buddy in the desert I get lonely riding out in the desert alone.

Nice you made it to Crater Lake, looks hellza cold.

After we filled up we headed a bit south and jumped on Beckwith Road and headed out to the east again. Never have been out this way, always took 20 to 80 on to Reno. Beautiful valley and then headed up to the pines. May not have mentioned it, but it is wonderful to see the forest green and lush, everything looked healthy after a few years of drought. We both noticed it for the whole trip thru California, Nevada and Oregon.

So the bike. Under sprung in the back with all the gear and my weight. Most of this trip had been in the dirt(fine) or gravel(feels like the bike is pushing). I absolutely hate using anyone else's stuff and this all made me nervous as a long tailed cat at a rocking chair convention (yea, I hang around a lot of old folks). Getting up on the pegs helped some but the bike still felt sketchy.

After about 45 minutes we pull up to a sign "special event" with a group of dirt bikers standing next to it. I thought it was potentially an endure or time trials, turned out the route we were taking was part of a course for a bike race. For 250. On a dirt/gravel road. Guys told us to stay on the right edge of the road and we would be fine. We spent another 45+ minutes dodging riders until we ended up far enough east to get off the course. Have to respect these guys out at altitude in the heat in the middle of nowhere.

 

[oobus]

Wow cool journey, aren't those mountain bikes going down the hill? Good thing you had a riding buddy in the desert I get lonely riding out in the desert alone.

Nice you made it to Crater Lake, looks hellza cold.

A few had larger tires but most were street bikes, I was surprised too as it was damn rocky.

Crater was not too bad, it was actually refreshing!

 

[Norcalslowpoke]

Probably "gravel grinder" bikes, near road bike geometry, but a bit wider dirtish tires, beefier frames, no suspension.

Great report Oobus, really enjoying it. Love the history stuff too, gives the trip context.

 

[SFMCjohn]

Great report Oobus, really enjoying it. Love the history stuff too, gives the trip context.

+1!

One of you all is a former KLR rider, right?

I lust after the KTM 690 but feel like I'd
miss my stock 6 gallon tank and the range ... :|

 

[oobus]

+1!

One of you all is a former KLR rider, right?

I lust after the KTM 690 but feel like I'd
miss my stock 6 gallon tank and the range ... :|

My partner had the KLR and put mega miles on it.

My KTM has a safari tank on it so I almost have 6 gallons of capacity without carrying any extra rotopax.
Unfortunately, the bike is still no workie.

 

[WoodsChick]

Where'd ya go after Crater Lake?


(I don't want this ride report to end!)



WonderingChick

 

[oobus]

Ok lets wrap this up!

After Crater Lake, we headed North towards Diamond Lake, where we had stayed the previous year, with about 10 billion mosquitos and bugs. This is off Hwy 138 and is a beautiful ride. Stopped to get gas from a salty old guy who had the personality of a wedge and continued on to a campsite. Previous year we had pulled into a campground on Clearwater River and it was drop dead gorgeous! Found the campground (Whitehorse) and pulled in, figured since it was Monday, there was no one there. Still just a beautiful and the water was probably 45 degrees(my "hot tub" is fed by my pump and is 55, I can stay in it for some time). My feet were sore, bruised and swollen(from getting stuck under pannier in the desert). Stripped down and gave them a good soaking for as long as I could stand it and they were turning white. Did that twice before bed, and would have done it again except for the mosquitos. Oh didn't mention the hoards of mosquitos, holy shit. I never get bit, and find it quite funny that my wife and friends get devoured and they don't touch me. Not this time. Lucky for me my riding partner had deep woods nuclear, agent orange, pcb flavored high powered Off. Saved our asses and enabled us to keep the majority of our blood. Ate some freeze dried food, candy bars I stashed from the gas station and a few swigs off the ol' flask before turning in.

 

[louemc]

Where'd ya go after Crater Lake?


(I don't want this ride report to end!)



WonderingChick

Love Your Input ...

 

[oobus]

Got a great nights sleep, was up making coffee by 6:30, and went for a walk (standing still was not an option - yes, mosquitos still around). Found that there was a small waterfall upstream, and more beautiful campsites.
The plan for the day was to head west and hit 30miles of dirt to the small town of Glide and then head up 10 mile road and over the costal range on a beautiful dirt road that we had found the year before.
Things did not go as planned. We ended up going up NF-28 which was a great gravel road climbing up past flowers, small streams and lush, green forest. At one point we lost the gps track, fiddled around and tried a side road to get back on track. As we went further and further, the 4x4 tracks became very light, few motorcycles had been this way. Btw, NF-2814 does not go all the way thru, there are too many down trees....

 

[OaklandF4i]

Epic ride report! I would love to undertake a trip like this.

Like John, I too would like a 690 some day. For me it will have to wait until the price drops enough on them in the used market to reach my budget (thats going to be a few years I am sure.... ). Hope you keep us posted on your bikes ultimate fix AND join us in August for the Baja planning meeting. arty

 

[oobus]

Epic ride report! I would love to undertake a trip like this.

Like John, I too would like a 690 some day. For me it will have to wait until the price drops enough on them in the used market to reach my budget (thats going to be a few years I am sure.... ). Hope you keep us posted on your bikes ultimate fix AND join us in August for the Baja planning meeting. arty

Thanks CJ. I was just thinking, see if you can make it to Weaverville - I'm trying to map out a route thru the Mendo. Forest past Ruth Lake to the Rally on dirt.... You could ride the whole length of the forest in one trip!

I'll make it to the August meeting, might be a good excuse to spend a few days in the city.

 

[oobus]

Well, there was a bit of stress as he wanted to keep going up the trail and I said, fine, I'm turning around we've got people expecting us in the early afternoon. Still wasn't digging the bike, it was still pushing in the dirt and my dad always makes bbq oysters from the local oyster farm - NOT going to be late for that.
We turned around (too large of a tree to go around) and followed the South Umpqua River into Canyonville for a late breakfast. Can't remember the name of the place but it is on the main road going North/South and on the West side of the road. Family run diner that was fantastic. Corned Beef with eggs, coffee great stuff. Filled the bikes up and headed up the I5 to Myrtle Creek and headed West. Followed 10 mile road until it met up with Coos Bay Wagon Road which went up and over the costal range, about 20+ miles of it dirt. At the top it follows a stream that starts out as a trickle and eventually turns into a large stream. Beautiful waterfalls and more lush vegetation.

It eventually end up in a small valley filled with small farms and fields of mustard. Heading North to Coos Bay and we ended up at my dad's by 2:30.

 

[oobus]

Ate well, spent the night and ended up heading out the next day after 1pm, due to the rainclouds hanging at the coast. We made a stop in Bandon to check out the Lighthouse and then got on the 101 to Crescent City. Stopped for lunch, was foggy and cold the whole trip, about 100 miles, missed the new heated grips on my bike apart at the stealer. BTW, called the dealer to check on my bike, still not fixed, and they were waiting on an "expert" to call them to determine how to hook up to the ecu. WTF, dealer that can't plug into a 2009 bike? Pissed. I have a dongle on the way now.

We headed East to the Ladybird Johnson Redwood grove on Bald Hills road out of Orick. The plan was to camp next to a Lookout I'd spotted the previous year on a spot overlooking the Klamath River. Apparently it is called the Schoolhouse Peak lookout. Somewhere we ended up not getting off on the right road and missed. It was starting to get late, so we hauled ass all the way to Weitchpec. The road was new asphalt almost all the way, and filled with tight switchbacks. I could smell brakes (mine) and my buddies knobbies overheating. I believe this is the same road they use for the Hoopa Hillclimb, something that I've always wanted to do.
[youtube]-DFwrMQHMtw[/youtube]

Filled up with gas and jammed up the 299 and found a sketchy Forest Service campground on the Trinity River by Burnt Ranch. Filled with Poisoned Oak, hot and dry. Welcome back. The next morning, had another great breakfast in Weaverville and pushed on to Redding, I wanted to hit the KTM dealer and see if they had anyone who could really work on a bike. Looked at all the beautiful Husky's, talked to the owner (very helpful) and ogled the new 701's they had sitting around.
It was about 11am, so slabbed the I5 back to home, was home by lunch!

Called the dealer who was holding my bike hostage, they had sent my ecu back to KTM Ohio for a remap, so I couldn't even go grab my bike and bring it home... and as of today, I still don't have it.....

 

[SFMCjohn]

... I'm trying to map out a route thru the Mendo. Forest past Ruth Lake to the Rally on dirt.... You could ride the whole length of the forest in one trip! ...

Haha ... I've been scouting the dirt through Mendo
to Weaverville a bit ...
above Ruth Lake
Rte 23 (Horse Ridge Lookout Road, as a way to avoid paved
Van Duzen Road) was blocked by 100s of downed trees between
the Pickett Peak Lookout and the Horse Ridge Lookout about a
month ago ... arty Maybe they've cleared them now ...

I was able to make it to Ruth Lake from Hwy 36/Wildwood
on Wild Mad Road about two months ago ...
(... was turned around on Rte 23 heading north, that trip,
by snow before the Horse Ridge Lookout ... )

Have also been checking out
the big-tank options for the 690 ...

thanks for the great ride report ...

 

[oobus]

Haha ... I've been scouting the dirt through Mendo
to Weaverville a bit ...
above Ruth Lake
Rte 23 (Horse Ridge Lookout Road, as a way to avoid paved
Van Duzen Road) was blocked by 100s of downed trees between
the Pickett Peak Lookout and the Horse Ridge Lookout about a
month ago ... arty Maybe they've cleared them now ...

I was able to make it to Ruth Lake from Hwy 36/Wildwood
on Wild Mad Road about two months ago ...
(... was turned around on Rte 23 heading north, that trip,
by snow before the Horse Ridge Lookout ... )

Have also been checking out
the big-tank options for the 690 ...

thanks for the great ride report ...

I'll have something figured out by the rally, I know that WE can get thru on Raglin Ridge to Collier Springs road, Rat Trap Gap and come out at Ruth. I'm 25 minutes from Paskenta.

So, about the big tanks, a few others have got the Rally Raid twin front tanks, look good but they are bank. I went with the cheap used route.
Bought an adapter for the bottom of the tank for accessory tanks ($125) and found a used Safari Tank on ADVrider for $250. Stock tank holds 3.2 gallons and the Safari holds 3.7 - so almost 7 gallons when you include my camp stove MSR bottle - good for 300 - 380 miles.

 

[SFMCjohn]

I'll have something figured out by the rally, I know that WE can get thru on Raglin Ridge to Collier Springs road, Rat Trap Gap and come out at Ruth. I'm 25 minutes from Paskenta.

I see ... That part of the world is still
a mystery to me due, I suppose, to the Yolla Bolly Wilderness
kind of blocking me from the south ...
it's also far from Lower Haight ...

I tried to head down through that northeastern
part of Mendo earlier this spring but got
turned around by snow on Little Black Rock Road ...
before I could find Rat Trap Gap ...

So, about the big tanks, a few others have got the Rally Raid twin front tanks, look good but they are bank. I went with the cheap used route.
Bought an adapter for the bottom of the tank for accessory tanks ($125) and found a used Safari Tank on ADVrider for $250. Stock tank holds 3.2 gallons and the Safari holds 3.7 - so almost 7 gallons when you include my camp stove MSR bottle - good for 300 - 380 miles.

I like the twin front tanks ... sounds like you still use
the stock tank along with the used Safari tank?
(can't tell from your pic, I'm not super familiar with KTMs,
your bike looks great!)
Over 300 miles is fantastic range!

I'm trying to think of where to ride to avoid the heat
over the holiday, and your pics of waterfalls
are looking pretty good ... Have to find my
bottle of DEET ...

see you in
Weaverville, arty
-- SFMCjohn

 

[OaklandF4i]

Thanks CJ. I was just thinking, see if you can make it to Weaverville - I'm trying to map out a route thru the Mendo. Forest past Ruth Lake to the Rally on dirt.... You could ride the whole length of the forest in one trip!

I'll make it to the August meeting, might be a good excuse to spend a few days in the city.

I'm leaving next weekend on a solo month long road trip via two lanes on my Street Triple to Minnesota. So I'll be missing the Weaverville trip this time. That and I just started tearing down the XR's motor to freshen it up for Baja this winter.... I'll definitely be up for some dual sport exploring this fall when I return and get the XR finished.

While it will be on the street, I am doing the trip old school. No all weather textiles, tents, jetboils, chairs etc etc.... Just a leather jacket and jeans. Small bag and a either a blanket or cheap sleeping bag. Looking forward to seeing new places and meeting new folks.

See you in August at Lanesplitters! arty

 

[oobus]

John, I'd head over to the coast, Usal Beach or higher. Will probably be foggy as it is 105ish over here and that always sucks in the fog at the coast. Lassen Park or Mt. Shasta may be good but you will have to go thru the hot hell to get there - if you or CJ are in the area, drop in for a cool dip on the way thru.

Let's see if my Spotwalla tracks will show up:

https://spotwalla.com/trackViewer.php?id=2878