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2006 R6 (non S) No start

G

grab-bert

New member
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Location
Redwood City
Moto(s)
'06 R6
Hey everyone, I tried looking for this topic in the forums but couldn't find anything. Would appreciate any help, need to get this thing on the road!

Problem: 2006 R6 (non S) cranks, no start. No modifications, completely stock. I bought it knowing it was busted, previous owner said he was riding it and the bike suddenly died. He wanted to get into the stunting scene so for all I know he could have been doing a wheelie or something at the time (can't argue with that!). The bike has been dead for about 3-4 weeks.

Already checked:
Getting very weak spark, and plenty of fuel, not sure yet about compression but I've been told by several mechanics that this is most likely not the issue. Too much fuel, perhaps? We disconnected the hose to the fuel line and it appears to be gushing out, is it possible the fuel pump is constantly flooding the engine?
-Replaced spark plugs
-Went through ignition system diagnostic in service manual
-Kickstand switch OK
-Kill switch OK
-Replacing the ECU didn't work
-Fuses OK
-Relays OK
-inspected every electrical connection I could get to and all OK
-Battery tested good, fully charges to 12.9v
-No codes
-Tried jumping from a car, no dice.

So far I'm trying not to throw money at the problem. However a shop is my last resort, which at this point is sounding pretty good.

Does anyone have any ideas? Next on my list is to check the camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, and the valves thanks to a quick conversation with Alex over at Fastline (nice bloke). If I can get my hands on a harness I might try and replace the section from the ECU to the coils, just to see what it does (if anything). Measured coils with a multimeter and they've all got the same resistance. Is it possible all four were fried somehow?

Electrical issues are not my forte. If anyone is willing to come out to redwood city to help diagnose, there's a burrito in it for you. Or a drink, or a parade. Thanks for reading!
 
1) Charge and load test your battery most autozpnes will do this for free

2) bypass kickstand switch

3) check that ignition switch is making all the connections it is supposed to in ON position and not making connections it isn't supposed to be making in ON position.

4) check ecu connectors for corrosion and good connections
 
grab-bert said:
Already checked:
Too much fuel, perhaps? We disconnected the hose to the fuel line and it appears to be gushing out, is it possible the fuel pump is constantly flooding the engine?
Click to expand...
It sounds like you've disconnected the fuel hose and turned on the ignition switch? If so, there should be fuel gushing out. The fuel pump pressurizes the fuel line and the fuel injectors act like valves that open and close to admit the proper amount of fuel to the engine. The ECU controls when and how long the injectors are open. The fuel line should always have pressure with the ignition switch turned on. You can spray starting fluid into the intake manifold (air cleaner) while cranking the engine and see if it starts.
The manifold will have specifications for the pressure and volume for the fuel system. Keep at it, you'll find the problem.
 
Thanks for the knowledge Seadog. I’m starting to think that i’m chasing a dragon here. Gonna try and go back to the weak spark issue.
 
Check the tip over sensor. Either swap from another bike or I believe there’s a way to bypass from the ecu.
 
apf said:
Check the tip over sensor. Either swap from another bike or I believe there’s a way to bypass from the ecu.
Click to expand...

+1 sometimes this.
 
Thanks for the tip over sensor suggestion. I believe i checked that already, but i may have done it wrong so i’ll check again.

I just tried replacing the coils, no dice. Something’s causing that weak spark, i think it may be the culprit. Could off timing cause that?
 
Do you have a multimeter? Replacing electrical without testing is a total crapshoot.

Edit: this sounds like you need to check air/fuel. How are you defining “weak spark”? I’d be more concerned with other things, sounds like your spark is there just not correct A/F ratio. Sure check your other sensors but if you’ve got the means to test, you should’ve checked the coils before replacing them.
 
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Affirmative on the multimeter. I did test the coils, but i read somewhere that although they may test ok they might still not be up to spec? I had a chance to test some for free so I figured why not.

When i say “weak spark” i mean it’s barely a blip of orange, not a big blue arc. But thanks for the suggestion Kawikiwi, I’ll look into air/fuel as well. There is most certainly fuel coming out of the pump into the lines, i know that much, but there’s plenty of other things in that vein to check.
 
Might have been covered, but did you try fresh fuel?

I’d also revisit the TOS if you’re unsure. Maybe previous owner dumped it while learning to stunt and wrecked the sensor.
 
the first non runner i ever bought had some pins in the electrical connector to the mass air flow not seated completely. banged my head against a wall for weeks replacing parts that didn't test to spec with a multimeter before i finally found this.

and my mechanic buddy, who i had asked weeks prior what i should do first, said i should take apart and check every electrical connector. he got to say i told you so.



https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-you-diagnose-an-engine-that-wont-start-1717491831
 
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Wow thanks for that Jafo. It feels exactly like i'm banging my head against a wall.:facepalm

I'll add it to my list of things to check. Fortunately i'm holding true to not throwing too much money at this problem.

Fuel i've heard could be the issue as well, so i'll have to check that out as apf has suggested.

When i went to check the camshaft position sensor, or, cylinder identification sensor if you like, i got a reading of zero voltage from the harness and no resistance from the sensor itself. I'll be checking that again, it's very possible i could have checked it incorrectly, even though i followed the manual to a T and triple checked my work :dunno
 
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Update!

R6 is throwing Code 14, which as i understand it, denotes a problem with the air intake pressure sensor hose. If i found the correct part on the bike, it's that little blue sensor that plugs into the fuel line, on the left side of the airbox (looking directly on, towards the front of the bike), and it has separate (what look like) vacuum hoses that go to the throttle body.

Those hoses look fine at first glance, so my instinct is to rip them off of the bike to see what they look like from all angles, but does this make sense to anyone? Could a part of the sensor be faulty, and think that the hoses are busted, without the computer invalidating the sensor itself?

We tried unplugging the sensor, and the computer threw an entirely different code, for the sensor itself. So the hoses do indeed have their own separate code.
 
Finally got around to doing a compression test.

Cylinder 1 gets around 150 psi, 2 gets 0 but i can see the needle moving, 3 reads 0 and doesn't doesn't do anything, and 4 gets around 60.

Is this indicative of valve trouble or is the engine totally screwed?
 
grab-bert said:
Finally got around to doing a compression test.

Cylinder 1 gets around 150 psi, 2 gets 0 but i can see the needle moving, 3 reads 0 and doesn't doesn't do anything, and 4 gets around 60.

Is this indicative of valve trouble or is the engine totally screwed?
Click to expand...

Wow, If those are correct you got some issues for sure. Do a leakdown test to determine if it's the valves or the rings. Then you can decide whether to pull the head or need to do a complete top end job.

Mad
 
Good thing for the seller it didn't run. Probably didn't want you hearing all the clattering coming from the motor...

Mad
 
Yeah that’s the thing I’m not sure I did it right, i’ve never done a compression test before in my life. I’ll have to check into that leak down test though.
 
Basically you need an air fitting that can screw into the spark plug hole. Some compression gauge fittings can work. Then put tested cylinder at TDC on compression stroke. You're going to have to hold it there with a wrench on the flywheel or stator rotor. Put air to the cylinder. If you hear air at the throttle bodies, your intake valve is bad. Air out the exhaust- exhaust valve. Air out the crankcase breather- rings are shot.

Mad
 
2 & 3 are hung open!

A more complete, pre purchase, history might provide a clue. My dollar is on bent valve stems.

Stunta's are notorious for screwing a bike beyond redemption and then selling it off to a sucker for what they can get as they then move on to molest another innocent bike.
 
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