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2008 FZ1 Engine Dies Suddenly

ScottRNelson said:
A clogged fuel filter is similar to a carbureted bike "hitting reserve". But usually it only happens right after getting hard on the throttle. At least that was my experience.
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If that's the case, then if the OP's bike is shutting down completely and instantly, it's electrical. But if a pump failure (not restricted flow from a clogged filter) can also result in an instant engine shut down, then it's still possible for it to be a fuel delivery problem.

I'm thinking electrical.

Does anyone know if the OP's bike has a tip over sensor?
 
Had 06 FZ1. Electrical gremlins galore. Reset and clear ECU codes, check and "jump" sidestand switch, and lift tank to check coils. Clean up grounds and charge battery off bike.
 
Thanks again for all the additional advice. Today I rode it for my commute, 20 miles each way. In the morning I was easy on it, no problems at all. I did not change a single thing ever since the issue occurred about 4-5 days in a row.

This evening after work, I got on the throttle very hard to see if I could replicate the situation . . zilch. Rode home scott free. I'm bamboozled.
 
Don't know if anyone said this already, But the first I would do is check your fuel pressure dynamically IE running on the dyno or down the road. With that many miles, i think that's where I would look first.

NoTraffic said:
Daily commuter and weekend warrior. 2008 FZ1, just broke 60k miles. Valve checks at 26k interval, last was done at 52k.

About a week ago, my FZ1 will just die randomly, usually at freeway speeds at 60mph+. I recently replaced all spark plugs, all new OEM ignition coils. Have done it before with success and this is the first time it's giving me hiccups.

The unusual part of the troubleshooting, is that when the engine dies, I will pull over, turn off the bike fully. Wait 10 seconds, turn it back on, and it fires right up. I will on my merry way and then randomly it will die again.

I am biasing my troubleshooting that it is a defective fuel pump on its way out. But what is stumping me is that it fires right up after I turn it off. I do have some side stand codes but that has been on for the last year (15k miles ago).

When I pull over, I don't even put the side stand down. So not quite sure where to go from here. My question is, what are symptoms of a fuel pump failing? When the engine dies, it's like someone hit the kill switch and it just goes silent. No bucking, stalling or hesitation. Any info is appreciated.
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KC@ BRG Racing said:
Don't know if anyone said this already, But the first I would do is check your fuel pressure dynamically IE running on the dyno or down the road. With that many miles, i think that's where I would look first.
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Don't think it's been suggested yet, but perhaps you can answer the question I posed earlier. If a fuel injected bike has it's pump stop, will the engine shut down instantly like it would if there was an electrical failure?

Secondarily, if there was an intermittent clog or restriction, could that also result in the engine shutting down instantly?

The reason I ask is the OP's bike seems to shut off instantly, like with an on/off switch. If a fuel pump can't do that, then it points directly to an electrical issue.

Also, no one seems to have answered the question as to whether or not the OP's bike has a tip over switch. Does anyone know?
 
ST Guy said:
Don't think it's been suggested yet, but perhaps you can answer the question I posed earlier. If a fuel injected bike has it's pump stop, will the engine shut down instantly like it would if there was an electrical failure?
Yes

Secondarily, if there was an intermittent clog or restriction, could that also result in the engine shutting down instantly?

Not really it will roll over and surging on and off. as it gets gas and then not enough to have it run.

The reason I ask is the OP's bike seems to shut off instantly, like with an on/off switch. If a fuel pump can't do that, then it points directly to an electrical issue.

Also, no one seems to have answered the question as to whether or not the OP's bike has a tip over switch. Does anyone know?
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My experience has been anything car or bike, and it has a modern fuel injection system, It has to have a way to shut the fuel off if it winds up sitting or on its roof. :thumbup
 
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OP: IMHO, your problem is most likely one of two things. Either you fuel pump is shutting off intermittently, or your tip over sensor is defective. I'd check and clean, if necessary, all connections between the fuse box and your fuel pump. Sometimes simply disconnecting a connector and plugging it back together is enough to reestablish a good connection. The other thing you can do is locate your tip over sensor. Before removing it, note the way it's oriented on the bike. Often the electrical connections will be on the top. Maybe use a permanent marker to mark the side facing the front of the bike. The idea is to be able to know how it sits in the bike after you remove it. Then remove it and holding it in the same way it is in the bike, shake it side to side and listen carefully to see if you can hear any rattling or clicking inside as you shake it. You should NOT be able to hear anything. This is because the inside is filled with a viscous liquid which damps and slows the movement of a pendulum inside. If you can hear things moving inside, that means the liquid is gone and the switch is shot.
 
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"Never use past success to redefine acceptable performance. Consider risk
decision options after in-depth analysis and objective assessment of
scenario-driven probability and severity." From a NASA safety brief after the Challenger failure. 03 Nov 2014.

OP glad to read that you made it to work and back. However, the problem is still there. It's like a snake in the grass just waiting to strike. And obviously it won't strike at 0300 when you and the bike are sound asleep.

If it were mine I'd lift up the tank and just start checking electrical connections. If you're not familiar with electrical troubleshooting then just pull the connections apart and look inside. Look at the plastic to see if it's discolored from excessive heat. Look at the metal connectors to see if they're loose. Start poking around until you find it.

Don't want it to crap out on the freeway.
 
had a honda 600rr with same problem-turned out to be a bad throttle position sensor
 
If the problem is electrical, maybe all that's needed is new smoke in the wires.
 
I had the same problem in my FZ6. It was the kill switch. U can test it by unplugging at the harness (under tank), then taking a volt meter set on OHMs to see whether the circuit stays ON when the switch is ON. I noticed it would cut out unless I pressed firmly in the switch, proving it was a worn/bad connection. I tried electrical cleaner and compressed air in the switch before all this, to be avail. Therefore, in lieu of replacing the entire right handle assembly (they don't sell new switches), I fused the ON circuit (on the assembly side) taped it up, never had the random cut off again... And I just use the key or sidestand to turn off. Some day will replace the assembly.
 
jy116 said:
I had the same problem in my FZ6. It was the kill switch. U can test it by unplugging at the harness (under tank), then taking a volt meter set on OHMs to see whether the circuit stays ON when the switch is ON. I noticed it would cut out unless I pressed firmly in the switch, proving it was a worn/bad connection. I tried electrical cleaner and compressed air in the switch before all this, to be avail. Therefore, in lieu of replacing the entire right handle assembly (they don't sell new switches), I fused the ON circuit (on the assembly side) taped it up, never had the random cut off again... And I just use the key or sidestand to turn off. Some day will replace the assembly.
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Often, kill switches can be disassembled so you can get at the actual contacts and really clean them.
 
jy116 said:
I had the same problem in my FZ6. It was the kill switch. U can test it by unplugging at the harness (under tank), then taking a volt meter set on OHMs to see whether the circuit stays ON when the switch is ON. I noticed it would cut out unless I pressed firmly in the switch, proving it was a worn/bad connection. I tried electrical cleaner and compressed air in the switch before all this, to be avail. Therefore, in lieu of replacing the entire right handle assembly (they don't sell new switches), I fused the ON circuit (on the assembly side) taped it up, never had the random cut off again... And I just use the key or sidestand to turn off. Some day will replace the assembly.
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This is really helpful . . on Saturday I finally got hesitation when accelerating at higher rpms unlike the other times the engine has died. It felt like a sock was stuffed in the air filter really fast and then stuck it back out. I'm leaning towards the fuel filter being dirty. Nothing with the kill switch seems off putting but it is an all weather bike. If it's not the fuel filter, I'll double check the kill switch too.
 
Before this problem started happening, did you do any riding in the rain? Or was the bike parked so it would get wet?
 
It's hard to say, I ride my bike in every condition. When this problem started to happen, it was covered while raining and never rode in heavy down pour. It started to happen every time it was dry and with no rhyme or reason. The first few times, it was easily within the first 10 mins of starting the engine cold. Then it became a habit at freeway speeds and disappeared from starting at the first 10 minutes.

I changed the spark plugs and coils because I thought it was rooted from this but problem still appears. When the bike is running, it is strong and with no hesitations which is why I find it very wacky. If it was a dirty fuel filter, I would imagine I'd get hesitation off/on but that's not the case until my last ride.

When the engine does die, it's like someone hit the kill switch or turned the key. I'll pull over, not touch anything, cycle the key 2-3 times and then it will fire right up and idle stable.
 
What is it going to take to pull the fuel filter out and check it?

Once the filter has been removed from the fuel lines, it's easy to figure out if it has a bunch of crap in it or not.

So what's the holdup?
 
ScottRNelson said:
What is it going to take to pull the fuel filter out and check it?

Once the filter has been removed from the fuel lines, it's easy to figure out if it has a bunch of crap in it or not.

So what's the holdup?
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I'm not certain, but I suspect the fuel filter is integrated into the pump unit, doesn't lend itself to visual inspection or replacement. You can pump fuel through it in a reverse flow and see if gunk comes out though, it was pretty impressive how much silt came out of mine.
 
NoTraffic said:
It's hard to say, I ride my bike in every condition. When this problem started to happen, it was covered while raining and never rode in heavy down pour. It started to happen every time it was dry and with no rhyme or reason. The first few times, it was easily within the first 10 mins of starting the engine cold. Then it became a habit at freeway speeds and disappeared from starting at the first 10 minutes.

I changed the spark plugs and coils because I thought it was rooted from this but problem still appears. When the bike is running, it is strong and with no hesitations which is why I find it very wacky. If it was a dirty fuel filter, I would imagine I'd get hesitation off/on but that's not the case until my last ride.

When the engine does die, it's like someone hit the kill switch or turned the key. I'll pull over, not touch anything, cycle the key 2-3 times and then it will fire right up and idle stable.
Click to expand...

I had the same thinking too. I ran a bottle of fuel system cleaner and nothing changed. I thought it was fuel cutting out, then it kept getting worse and wouldn't even stay on while warming up. It's a 10min job to test the kill switch if you can access the harness plug. Find a wiring diagram to see which harness pins should show 0 ohms with switch on. Much easier than pulling the fuel pump.
 
Also check your stator, it's a common failure on that engine. I replaced mine at 30k and again at 74k on the 03 R1 and at 36k on the 00 R1. Just seems like yamahas enjoy eating stators around those marks.
I'd also check the side stand switch and just bypass it anyways. Did that on the 00 and did to being track only put a little more on the tank to remind myself.
 
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