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5w30 oil weight chart confusion

Charles R said:
But the subi has an oil light that allowed you a chance to add oil right? Would your engine still be good if you didn't add any oil? That's what we're talking about. Any oil will protect just fine, as long as there's still oil in the sump. Onan, and others, have determined that certain oils get consumed faster than others.

Like you said, there's no reason to overthink it. But there's no reason to ignore it either.
Click to expand...

That geni probably has an oil light too. My old ass generac i dont even know how big, 6k? has an oil light. The run time of a daily driver car to what i assume is an infrequently used generator isn't comparable. He'll probably put oil in it once and that'll be it like 99% of owners so if putting straight 30 weight or whatever it calls for is what makes him comfortable so be it. I'm just here to say it doesn't matter and to argue :)

Hope it lasts a long time OP
 
JesasaurusRex said:
Manual calls for 0w20. Been putting a mix of 10w30, 10w40 since then. Hasn't blown up yet. Who knew?
Click to expand...

Manufactures, Oil Analysis Labs and savoy mechanics know mixing grades is a
crap shoot and not recommend because of the danger of upsetting the
balance and negate protection... manual calls for 20 grade and it's the grade
that will meet and exceed your mileage expectations better than trying to out
think the Manufactures and Oil Labs...

Quote Blackstone Labs...
"Usually, at least several of these additives will be synergistic. That
is, they react mutually, in groups of two or more, to create an effect
that none of them could attain individually. Changing or adding to
this formula can upset the balance and negate the protective effect
the formula was meant to achieve, even if you are only adding more of
something that was already included in the initial package."

Will Mixing 10 Motor Oils may not hurt but its not recommended...

[YOUTUBE]sglQrbfFVUI[/YOUTUBE]
 
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I definitely do overthink things but that is the nature of how I think about technical topics, I like to break it down and actually understand it.

I read a few things that might play a basis, 1) Hotter air cooled temps 2) Splash type lubrication instead of an oil pump so oil gets where it needs faster 3) Anti foaming properties due to splash type system 4) Orientation of the camshaft/valve system/piston angle

Any how, I found this chart on briggs & stratton's website
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/mower-oil-type-and-capacity.html


attachment.php


Different oil types can work best at certain temperatures. Learn which one to choose for your climate.

SAE 30- Warmer temperatures, most common oil for small engines.
SAE 10W-30- Varying temperature range, this grade of oil improves cold-weather starting, but may increase oil consumption.
Synthetic SAE 5W-30- Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
SAE 5W-30- Very cold temperatures.
Vanguard 15W-50- Varying temperature range. For continuous-use, such as commercial lawn cutting or pressure washing.
When choosing lawn mower oil, use a high-quality detergent oil classified as "For Service SF, SG, SH, SJ" or higher. Do not use special additives.

Synthetic oils are an acceptable oil at all temperatures. The use of synthetic oil does not alter required oil change intervals.
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If there is one thing a owner has control of its the viscosity of
their oil... chemically speaking either the 30 or 50 will meet and
exceed your operating expectations... BUT according to manufactures it
is best to use the freer flowing 30 over the slower flowing 50... The
engineers have tested the freer flowing 30 and noted it lubricates and cools
critical engine components better than slower flowing 50 oils can...
Freer flowing oils reduce bearing temperatures and sump temperatures
compared to slower flowing oils. Freer flowing 30 can also help increase
horsepower and lower fuel consumption... Thinking the slower flowing 50 some
how lowers engine temperature is going the wrong way because of increase oil
drag...


Oil drag in a tube comparison
Vd93WG0.gif
 
Most aircooled gensets run straight 30 weight.

Don't tell CARB or the EPA but you might, you know, as a pure hypothetical run some 30W breakin oil in so your generator can have a little ZDDP as a treat.
 
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More to consider than just oil weight. When I had my 690 there was only one version of Motorex oil recommend by Ktm because of its additives. Likely you could run a different oil without noticing any issues but if going for max life and pushing to limits of performance it probably would have made a difference.

Ah who am I kidding, it was a ktm something else would have failed long before an oil related issue.
 
Busy Little Shop said:
Manufactures, Oil Analysis Labs and savoy mechanics know mixing grades is a
crap shoot and not recommend because of the danger of upsetting the
balance and negate protection... manual calls for 20 grade and it's the grade
that will meet and exceed your mileage expectations better than trying to out
think the Manufactures and Oil Labs...

Quote Blackstone Labs...
"Usually, at least several of these additives will be synergistic. That
is, they react mutually, in groups of two or more, to create an effect
that none of them could attain individually. Changing or adding to
this formula can upset the balance and negate the protective effect
the formula was meant to achieve, even if you are only adding more of
something that was already included in the initial package."

Will Mixing 10 Motor Oils may not hurt but its not recommended...

[YOUTUBE]sglQrbfFVUI[/YOUTUBE]
Click to expand...


I actually meant mix and match by oil change, like 10w30 one time and then 10w40 the next because that's what I have sitting on the shelf. But I'd honestly mix the weights too if that's all I had. It got 0w20 as called for up until I noticed it was burning oil. At that point I'm more worried about the burn rate than whatever the book says. The thicker oil SHOULD help with that. In general I agree with you, don't mix weights and don't mix brands because of the additive packages.
 
Blankpage said:
More to consider than just oil weight. When I had my 690 there was only one version of Motorex oil recommend by Ktm because of its additives. Likely you could run a different oil without noticing any issues but if going for max life and pushing to limits of performance it probably would have made a difference.

Ah who am I kidding, it was a ktm something else would have failed long before an oil related issue.
Click to expand...

Started putting 60wt motorex in my 701 since I started tracking the bike. Book says 50wt belray, but good God that bike makes a lot of racket after beating on it.

I honestly always recommend people follow the manual, but realistically there's a window to fall in depending on use and environment. Obviously more critical on stuff you push to extremes, like racing in hot weather. Less critical in low load, rpm, mild weather.

K I'm out
 
Marlowe said:
Most aircooled gensets run straight 30 weight.
Click to expand...

Using straight 30 instead of 5W-30 will make cold starts more
difficult... Adequate oil supply happens but its not instantaneous
when we hit start it takes critical seconds for the oil to adequately
flow during cold start up... Roughly 60% of total engine wear occurs
during cold start up conditions before oil can circulate through the
engine... that is why straight grade oils are no longer recommend...

Flow time of the motor oil during an engine cold start at 0° C.

[YOUTUBE]46r2sU-77OI[/YOUTUBE]
 
I understand this but generators don't start and stop like vehicles do. Generally it's one start and extended runtime.
 
Marlowe said:
I understand this but generators don't start and stop like vehicles do.
Click to expand...

True... Generators aren't afforded a idle period like vehicles where the oil has
time to warm and travel to critical engine parts... Generators are expected to go
from 0 to operating rpms without the benefit of an idle period or a warm up
period so its even more crucial to employ the free flowing multi grade than the
slow moving straight grade...
 
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