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A good alternative to brake fluid for hydro. clutch.

.

EDIT: I see that you're referring to the clutch. In that case...use what the manufacturer recommends. What is the point of converting a glycol fluid to mineral oil? Especially on a clutch?

I use DOT 5 in my aprilia's clutch system because it lasts longer. with dot 4 I have to bleed every 3 months. with dot 5 I can go 5-6 months.



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You could try hydraulic oil in your hydraulic clutch. There are 3 basic viscosities, ISO 32, 46, and 68. We use Chevron Rando or Clarity 46 for most of our hydraulic applications here in the temperate Bay Area.
 
You could try hydraulic oil in your hydraulic clutch. There are 3 basic viscosities, ISO 32, 46, and 68. We use Chevron Rando or Clarity 46 for most of our hydraulic applications here in the temperate Bay Area.

You don't want to use anything petroleum-based in a system that calls for brake fluid.
 
I'm actually suprised to see someone hit the nail on the head about the problems with DOT 5 fluids. Because they don't absorb moisture, the moisture sits at the bottom of the system. Remember, when you do fluid changes your bleeders are all at high points in the system. So, even after a fluid change the moisture remains unless the fluid can absorb the moisture. There is always a danger that moisture will cause corrosion in the slave piston so stick with DOT 3,4, or 5.1 for all of your top bled hydraulic systems.

Just an FYI, all elastomers in a brake system are likely Buna-N regardless of the fluid used. Buna-N is compatible with both mineral oils and glycols.


My above hydrauilic oil comment was a bit sarcastic.
 
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for magura masters use magura blood, atf or even mineral oil. don't use brake fluid.


for other masters such as brembo clutch I now use DOT5. it does not absorb water/moisture so I don't have to bleed often . aprilia's brembo masters are notorious for requiring frequent bleeds. make sure you flush out the old dot3,4,5.1 before switching.

Well, I was going to go on about water still getting in the DOT 5 and settling to the bottom and corroding the slave cylinder, but others have covered it. DOT is a BAD idea. About the only people who use it are antique vehicle buffs who are desparately concerned about potential damage to their paint jobs. And even then, most don't use it.
 
I hear what you are saying, Dan. However, in the case of my 92 cbr900, I found that the change to blue gave me a different brake feel. A brake feel I prefer. Could be that there is a 3/4 brand out there that would do the same. But, I tried the blue, it's compatible with the seals, and like it. :shrug

As far as the magura mineral oil, in respect to a clutch system, it is supposed to be an ISO 10. That is herra light for hydraulics. When I change mine out, I'll probably stick with the magura blood. Im not going to look to find something that light.

*edit*

The hydraulic clutch is on the KTM, BTW....
 
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I hear what you are saying, Dan. However, in the case of my 92 cbr900, I found that the change to blue gave me a different brake feel. A brake feel I prefer. Could be that there is a 3/4 brand out there that would do the same. But, I tried the blue, it's compatible with the seals, and like it. :shrug

....

What is the "blue" you are refering to??

ATE Blue??

The ATE Blue is Dot 4.
 
What is the "blue" you are refering to??

ATE Blue??

The ATE Blue is Dot 4.


Is it? I thought it was 5.1........ Well, guess I have zero issues. :rofl

I was looking for some information on the magura blood. Ive seen it being as light as 5/6. That is some silly light oil.
 
Is it? I thought it was 5.1........ Well, guess I have zero issues. :rofl

I was looking for some information on the magura blood. Ive seen it being as light as 5/6. That is some silly light oil.

That is what is says on the can.
 

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I am not sure why people do not seem to believe what the MANUFACTURES of each of these products recommend.

If Brembo recommends Dot 4 use Dot 4, do not use Dot 5.

Just above with Magura, they say on their website NOT to use off the shelf Mineral Oil, it is not the same as what they are recommending, yet he recommended it anyway.

If, insert motorcycle manufactures name here, recommend Dot 4 use Dot 4.

If you do not have ABS, do not use Dot 5.1.

In some cases the result of using the wrong fluid may not have a major effect, as is the case with using Dot 5.1 instead of Dot 4, but why do it??

Recommending Dot 5 because it does not absorb moisture, to me, does not seem like a good recommendation. Just maybe the Dot 4 is designed to absorb moisture, why, to keep the moisture from corroding the internal parts so they do not seize, and stop working.

Isn't it amazing how few brake system failures you hear about, do you ever wonder why?

Thanks for the post! Makes sense to me.

I just use the regular dot 3/4 castrol synthetic off the shelf and change it often (street only so probably could use about anything). It looks like the ATE isn't that expensive so maybe I'll start using it.
 
I'm surprised they can print DOT 4 on the can, since, my understanding is that only the amber colored one is actually DOT compliant. Why? The color...

Apparently the amber to clear color is a DOT requirement that the ATE Blue doesn't meet. It's otherwise compliant in every other way, as evidenced by the otherwise identical Type 200.
 
I'm surprised they can print DOT 4 on the can, since, my understanding is that only the amber colored one is actually DOT compliant. Why? The color...

Apparently the amber to clear color is a DOT requirement that the ATE Blue doesn't meet. It's otherwise compliant in every other way, as evidenced by the otherwise identical Type 200.

ATE does make an "amber" color as well, the reason is so when the fluid is being changed you can see the color change so you know the new fluid is there.
 
I'm surprised they can print DOT 4 on the can, since, my understanding is that only the amber colored one is actually DOT compliant. Why? The color...

Apparently the amber to clear color is a DOT requirement that the ATE Blue doesn't meet. It's otherwise compliant in every other way, as evidenced by the otherwise identical Type 200.

Interesting.
 
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