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Amsoil vs. Rotella vs. Mobil 1 vs. Motul

Skidmarx

Don't Shoot!
Joined
Aug 8, 2008
Location
Berkeley
Moto(s)
'10 Versys, '09 Bandit 1250s,'00 Bandit 600, Giant NRS2, Litespeed Veneto
Name
Succubus
What's the best synthetic oil?

From what I can tell, Rotella isn't specifically formulated for motorcycles. Some people swear by it.

I've been running Amsoil 20wt50 but it's pricey at about $10 per quart. Is it worth the money?

Mobil 1 is about the same price at Kragen.

Thanks
 
Running Rotella, on SV650, and with the cost, I change out every 2 track sessions or Races. :)
 
ive had good results running the rotella in my 1000rr, less ticking and the bike feels smoother overall. could just be me but for the price i like it:teeth
 
yep, I think I buy about 4 gallons at a time. about 10 bucks per gallon. :)
the Mobil 1 is like 11 dollars a quart. :shocker
 
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I use Repsol myself, glad I get it free cause changing it as often as I do would be too pricey and I would still use Rotella.
 
I've never seen any empirical data comparing Rotella to the teh good MC specifics. Mobil1 MC, Motul 300V Factory and Amsoil are "can't lose" choices, the Repsol, not so much. Maxima and Golden Spectro make some good ones as well as Redline. $10 qt. is average price.
P.S. I use Delo, Delvac or Rotella 15w-40 in some of my old air-cooled stuff.
 
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The AMSOIL and Mobil 1 are both the superior type of synth, Rotella and the cheaper ones are made from dino oil stock. I use Mobil one in my cars and drive it 5k without thinking about it. I use Rotella in my track bikes and change it often. I use Mobil one in my street bikes and change it once a year.
 
I use Motorex full synthetic 10W-50. It's pretty expensive but my bike doesn't even hold one quart, so it's not too bad.
 
Mobil 1 extend use = approx. $25 per 5 qt jug at WallyWorld (not MC; SJ/SL, not SF/SG)

I've used it for 40,000 miles now, on same clutch. No slippage.

Many Shell oil chemists use it.

The full synthetic Rotella, I can never find there (Martinez).
 
I worked at a speed shop and the amsoil guy came in and basically sold me and the shop on the stuff.

in my 67 stanger I run 100% amsoil, and do the "change the filter, and top off with a fresh quart every 5K", and do this 5 times before draining and changing out everything, which works out to one complete oil change every two years or so, economical, and the motor just looks BEAUTIFUL inside after over 100K on the bottom end.

in the vtwin I run 100% amsoil as well, but drain and change every 5K, which is like 4 times a year now that it's actually running like a motorcycle should.

in the speed bikes I also run 100% amsoil, and filter screen, drain and re-fill after each run, sometimes we change it out, but usually just pour it right back in as long as we don't find anything in the screen or filter.

if I was running dyno oil I'd run KENDALL GT and nothing else, but for me, the amsoil synthetic is cost effective (if you follow their plan, which works), and I liked the way my motors look when I tear em down after using the stuff.

I'm sure with top quality oils like the OP lists in the title, you get great lube/protection with all of them, and the real difference is price, basically
 
I worked at a speed shop and the amsoil guy came in and basically sold me and the shop on the stuff.

in my 67 stanger I run 100% amsoil, and do the "change the filter, and top off with a fresh quart every 5K", and do this 5 times before draining and changing out everything, which works out to one complete oil change every two years or so, economical, and the motor just looks BEAUTIFUL inside after over 100K on the bottom end.

in the vtwin I run 100% amsoil as well, but drain and change every 5K, which is like 4 times a year now that it's actually running like a motorcycle should.

in the speed bikes I also run 100% amsoil, and filter screen, drain and re-fill after each run, sometimes we change it out, but usually just pour it right back in as long as we don't find anything in the screen or filter.

if I was running dyno oil I'd run KENDALL GT and nothing else, but for me, the amsoil synthetic is cost effective (if you follow their plan, which works), and I liked the way my motors look when I tear em down after using the stuff.

I'm sure with top quality oils like the OP lists in the title, you get great lube/protection with all of them, and the real difference is price, basically

Makes me feel better about all the money I've been pouring into my bike's oil pan! Thanks.
 
the rotella synthetic is only like 18bucks a gallon at kragen,the regular is like 11 or 12.
 
What is the true downfall of using full synthetic non-moto oil in bikes? I have a few 5quart jugs of it left from my old track car and it would be a shame to waste it in my commuter car

Is it really just the friction modifiers for the wet clutch or is there more to it than that
 
What is the true downfall of using full synthetic non-moto oil in bikes? I have a few 5quart jugs of it left from my old track car and it would be a shame to waste it in my commuter car

Is it really just the friction modifiers for the wet clutch or is there more to it than that

IF there are friction modifiers you have a problem AFAIK only the 0-20 and 5-20 oils have the modifiers. Look on the label. I have used Redline full synth and others with zero problems.
 
So what makes moto specific oil..er..moto specific? Special blend? I've been researching and can't seem to find a solid answer. I figure if the stuff I was using in my car can handle a turbo charged car running 25psi and putting out 300 wheel hp, it should be ok in a little 600CC moto

I have 3 5 quart jugs of 10w30 full synthetic stuff, same weight my honduh asks for, so it would be nice if I could use it without worry, I'd prob change it every 2-3 track days anyway
 
not much. a bit more of anti corrosion specific and zinc. I consider the whole moto specific oil to be a huge hype. As far as I am concerned Mobil one is one of the best oils out there, and I would ten times use it over anything short of Motul synthetic. I don't use moto specific oils and never have. My motors all break down with very little wear after heavy race seasons or long mileage.
 
So what makes moto specific oil..er..moto specific? Special blend? I've been researching and can't seem to find a solid answer. I figure if the stuff I was using in my car can handle a turbo charged car running 25psi and putting out 300 wheel hp, it should be ok in a little 600CC moto

I have 3 5 quart jugs of 10w30 full synthetic stuff, same weight my honduh asks for, so it would be nice if I could use it without worry, I'd prob change it every 2-3 track days anyway

That is pretty light for a moto, you might want to mix in a quart of 50 weight
 
hmm, ic ic. That's just what they spec in the service manual, I guess that doesn't factor in heavy track use though

Thanks for the info
 
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