Bike won't start after lowside

[MtnRacer]

*edit*
FIXED!
Recap: Bike wouldn't start, no fuel, thought it was the tip over sensor but traced it back to the fuel relay. The entire relay box has been crushed in the accident, hacksawed it open and bent everything back into shape, bike starts now.

Posted this on Kawiforums, thought I'd try here as well. This is the reason my battery's dead.

2005 ZX-6R:

Lowsided the bike on Turn 3 at Thill last month. Took a pretty long slide on the right with a hard flip to the left at the end which managed to bend the key of all places. Here's the real problem:

The gauges will light as normal, clutch is in, bike in neutral, kill switch turned off, bike will crank, but no fuel. I killed the battery doing this so and apparently it was an old battery (reading 1.7 volts on the multimeter). I'm purchasing a new one tomorrow.

What should I be looking for here? Can anybody give me pointers on testing the tip over sensor to make sure it's still good? I'm kind of hoping that with the battery disconnected, any ECU codes will be cleared and it might just start with a new battery. It's not acting like it's flooded... I'm not really sure what direction to go here. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm trying to get it ready in time for a track day on Monday that fell in my lap.

Thanks all,
Steve

 

[MtnRacer]

Halp?

Steve

 

[DJNick]

Steve you should have Shawn (elskipador) go over it for you, he does great work at a reasonable rate.

 

[Marlowe]

Tipover switch -- check your service manual, not sure where it is on your bike.

Should also check your wiring to the sidestand and clutch switches...anything that would make the bike think it shouldn't allow you to start it. Can try bypassing all of these switches with a piece of wire until you narrow down the culprit.

 

[MtnRacer]

Meh. Checked all the fuses, pulled the tip over sensor apart and it's in good working order. Fuel pump still doesn't prime.

Steve

 

[Marlowe]

Hmm, clutch and sidestand switches?

 

[MtnRacer]

Both appear to be undamaged.

What's NOT undamaged is my relay box!

I started tracking voltages and found out the fuel pump is getting zero voltage (big surprise) so I went to go the next point which was the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay is housed with the main relay and it looks like the entire unit took a pretty hard knock in the crash (split the case) and I'm taking it apart now to see if all the joints are still intact...

Steve

 

[MtnRacer]

Well damn, near as I can tell, it looks like my fuel relay is busted. Looks like I'm grounded. Arggggg.

Steve

 

[Marlowe]

I was afraid of that...if your other switches were okay, with the fuses already checked, I was going to suggest checking that next

Well, you could adapt a relay from Fry's or something, if you really had to, but that's a bit of a packaging mess and it's probably easiest just to order up the OEM replacement. Bummer on this weekend, though.

 

[MtnRacer]

A little open heart surgery...

That's my crushed fuel relay.

Steve

 

[MtnRacer]

I FIXED IT!!

Muahwahahaha. I was able to bend the relay back into shape, and now it engages and creates resistance appropriately! SUCCESS! The bad news is, I broke one of the solder joints for the Starter relay getting the damn thing open. Off to ACE hardware for a soldering gun!

Steve

 

[Marlowe]

Ace stocks the 140/100W Weller. It's about $35.

I only know this because I needed one recently, and all I owned were 12, 25 and 30W pencil irons.

Don't forget to JB Weld the enclosure back together, to complete the kludge.

And order a new one already. Actually, read the part numbers off the existing relay, and try Digi-Key or Mouser, and just replace that part of the board -- should be a damn sight cheaper than replacing the entire board the OEM way.

 

[pahhhoul]

and I thought swapping my suspension, tires and brake lines for monday and tuesday was a task.
ain't nothing compared to yours Steve.
Get that shit fixed and I'll see ya tomorrow!

 

[MtnRacer]

Ace stocks the 140/100W Weller. It's about $35.

I only know this because I needed one recently, and all I owned were 12, 25 and 30W pencil irons.

Don't forget to JB Weld the enclosure back together, to complete the kludge.

And order a new one already. Actually, read the part numbers off the existing relay, and try Digi-Key or Mouser, and just replace that part of the board -- should be a damn sight cheaper than replacing the entire board the OEM way.

I had to hacksaw the relay box open to get inside, so yeah, a new one is in order.

Paul, this was even more difficult than putting the bike together at the track after my last last crash!

Steve

 

[elskipador]

 

[MtnRacer]

Fuel pump STILL won't prime during key turn on! I'm baffled. I've followed all of the testing procedures in the service manual for the relay box, it passes with flying colors. Furthermore, the relay is open and I can see exactly what it's doing: I turn on the key and it stays open, if I close it by hand, THEN the fuel pump will start priming, if I try to start the bike, I can SEE it closing, but the bike won't start. Confused now, is my fuel pump working correctly? Am I not getting spark now? GRrrrr... I bent the ignition relay closed so it's always getting a signal if that makes a difference.

Steve

 

[kyles here]

i was having this problem too after a crash and i thought it was the relay, it ended up being my kickstand switch and i jumped it to get it to work.

 

[MtnRacer]

IT STARTED!

I think it was just flooded, which is why the fuel pump wouldn't prime, it was already primed!

One of the relays does sound EXTREMELY pissed off, I think it's the starter relay. It makes a terrible buzzing noise, but the minute I apply throttle, it stops. It resume again when the throttle reaches the stop. Anybody have any idea what that could mean? Is it safe?

I'm so stoked it finally started, haha. Maybe my track day is salvaged after all! The FSM was invaluable, as was your guys' support. Thank you!

Steve

 

[kyles here]

if the relay is buzzing its getting too much amperage and theres a good possibility that relay will take a shit. probably from the part you bent back and soldered

 

[MtnRacer]

if the relay is buzzing its getting too much amperage and theres a good possibility that relay will take a shit. probably from the part you bent back and soldered

Oh really? Sweet, that's probably because of the car battery I'm using to power the whole POS.

Steve