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carpentry HELP! stair stringer layout

auntiebling

auntiebling

megalomaniacal troglodyte
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 27, 2004
Location
atop the parapet
Moto(s)
.
i've read
i've youtubed. i get the basics untill you get to the point where you have to trim the bottom of the stair stringer to make make the first step rise equal to all the others. every time i lay this out, it just makes the last riser taller instead of the first one.

wtf am i missing?

in case it matters,
17 3/4 total rise.
3 total steps, so 2 treads on the stringers. would rather have just 1 tread on the stringers but that makes for a "too tall riser" as there are old people in the family to consider, as well as toddlers.
individual riser height 5.91"
tread depth of 10"
 
Some info is missing, what the material thickness of the tread? What is the thickness of the flooring on the top? Are you going outside flush, outside frame, or inside?

If you were going outside flush frame meaning the the top step would be flush with the framing of the deck then the top riser, and bottom riser would be shorter. If you are going outside flush than the top riser would be the same as the second, the last step would land you on the deck (it a riser) and the bottom riser would be shorter than the other two.

This is a pretty bullet proof calculator. Remember that the stringer is never at 45° to the ground normally around 30°, but the risers are 45° from each other.

http://www.ez-stairs.com/widgets/stair_calculator/
 
Stringers are hard to layout and cut unless you do them all the time. Simpson(they make Simpson Ties for framing) makes an angle bracket the you can bolt the stair tread to. You won't have to cut the notches and you'll have a stronger stringer, because when you notch it for the treads you reduce a 2x12 to a 2x5.
if you go the notching route buy enough 2x12 to make 3 stringers. When you fuck up the first one, use it as a template to make good ones.
 
Well I finished this, and figured it out before anyone even replied here but such is the nature of life, time got away

So today I am excavating for the border of the land g the stairs will dump onto and a good opportunity it to take a money finished shot of the stringers came up

My error, apparently, is you have to include the finished "top flooring thickness dimension" to make the formula help. Modeling it in solidworks helped :kicknuts
 

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Toekick isn't installed yet, waitng to see how the landing turns out because it ain't going to be level or square.

That looks like a good book, it's going on the Xmas list. I need to build a garage in the not too distant future
 
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BURNROPE said:
Stringers are hard to layout and cut unless you do them all the time. Simpson(they make Simpson Ties for framing) makes an angle bracket the you can bolt the stair tread to. You won't have to cut the notches and you'll have a stronger stringer, because when you notch it for the treads you reduce a 2x12 to a 2x5. if you go the notching route buy enough 2x12 to make 3 stringers. When you fuck up the first one, use it as a template to make good ones.
Click to expand...

That's how I did my stairs on the back yard slope. 37 steps
I have one tread that is cracked after 27 years
 
You know the old Marine at Fred's Brian?? Roger.

He (even though 69) still does work like that for not a huge amount of money.
 
I cut my first stringer where I want the finished heights to be, and then cut the thickness of the tread off the bottom and it drops everything where it needs to be. You can then trace that one over the next one(s). The new PSLs are the best way to go for indoor use.
 
BURNROPE said:
Stringers are hard to layout and cut unless you do them all the time. Simpson(they make Simpson Ties for framing) makes an angle bracket the you can bolt the stair tread to. You won't have to cut the notches and you'll have a stronger stringer, because when you notch it for the treads you reduce a 2x12 to a 2x5.
if you go the notching route buy enough 2x12 to make 3 stringers. When you fuck up the first one, use it as a template to make good ones.
Click to expand...

those don't help for the "middle" stringers. there are 4 across on my stair set, because the staircase is 60" wide. no point in having french doors to get junk in and out of the house if the stairs accessing the doors are standard narrow-as-fuck

budman said:
You know the old Marine at Fred's Brian?? Roger.

He (even though 69) still does work like that for not a huge amount of money.
Click to expand...

good to know but time i got... some. money for professionals: none :laughing

CockyRooster said:
I cut my first stringer where I want the finished heights to be, and then cut the thickness of the tread off the bottom and it drops everything where it needs to be. You can then trace that one over the next one(s). The new PSLs are the best way to go for indoor use.
Click to expand...

where were you when i posted this thread mr smartypants eh?

i think what you describe is what i did
 
Seems like everyones done, so I'll add this...

Ive been working a constuction site in sf for a 6 or 7 weeks. The general contractor has dropped the ball, and ive picked it up as much as i can. The stairs were poorly made. Things are not well constructed. The owner told the floor guy that i would make the decoratorative stair runner between the stringer and the wall. As we've been discussing here, its not intuitive construction.

I was really worried, the wood was expensive. But the floor guy said his guy was on the way and would help me. He showed up and jumped right in, and i watched as he performed surgery with a pencil and a stick. No. Tape. Measure. It was a delight to watch as the piece slowly dropped into place. A little here, a little there.

I learned a bunch. :applause
 
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