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CBR F4i DEATH!

Danibee said:
Uhmm...my bad. I thought compression and exhaust were air. :rofl
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There are specifics that need to be ruled out. You can have air flow and no fuel (dead carb, or fuel injection issue), You can have fuel, and air flow (intake & exhaust), yet NO compression.

The 2 term people know it by is:
Air, Fuel, Compression, Spark &
Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow.

The second one really is the most logical, but leaves out the important fuel part of the equation. So literally both saying are wrong. Even though we generally know what we mean, and what we are explaining.

None the less, I called out your comment because the OP (in a couple other posts in this thread) referenced a battery problem. Which no matter how well the fuel or compression is, the spark part of the equation is severely lacking. :teeth
 
Dopesick said:
There are specifics that need to be ruled out. You can have air flow and no fuel (dead carb, or fuel injection issue), You can have fuel, and air flow (intake & exhaust), yet NO compression.

The 2 term people know it by is:
Air, Fuel, Compression, Spark &
Suck, Squish, Bang, Blow.

The second one really is the most logical, but leaves out the important fuel part of the equation. So literally both saying are wrong. Even though we generally know what we mean, and what we are explaining.

None the less, I called out your comment because the OP (in a couple other posts in this thread) referenced a battery problem. Which no matter how well the fuel or compression is, the spark part of the equation is severely lacking. :teeth
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It did try to start though. (Did you watch the vid?) He had juice so the rr is ok. (I'm pretty sure bout that...but correct if need be. Main thing is to get this guy back on his bike.)
I posted fuel, air, spark as it must be one. Otherwise the engine would turn over. Might be fuel but if it was his fi system he would have thrown a code. (Did you throw a code op? lol) So unless he's out of fuel or there's another reason he's not getting any it's spark or air. Spark is easier to check I'm thinkin. I always go easiest to check first.
 
Danibee said:
It did try to start though. (Did you watch the vid?) He had juice so the rr is ok. (I'm pretty sure bout that...but correct if need be. Main thing is to get this guy back on his bike.)
I posted fuel, air, spark as it must be one. Otherwise the engine would turn over. Might be fuel but if it was his fi system he would have thrown a code. (Did you throw a code op? lol) So unless he's out of fuel or there's another reason he's not getting any it's spark or air. Spark is easier to check I'm thinkin. I always go easiest to check first.
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He stated, he had charged the battery with a Tender. Once charged, bike would start, run like crap and die. At which point he took a voltage reading of the battery and it was low again.

To me, that says Battery has a dead cell (at the very least).
 
Dopesick said:
He stated, he had charged the battery with a Tender. Once charged, bike would start, run like crap and die. At which point he took a voltage reading of the battery and it was low again.

To me, that says Battery has a dead cell (at the very least).
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Pretty sure that was after he ran it dead. But good point on the run like shit part. Forgot that part of post. So it turned over but ran like shit...then died. This shit is hard without being with the bike. But would the rr going out cause it to run shitty? My experience is they just run but don't charge? What do you thinks?
 
OP:
Get the battery charged up fully then run the bike. Use a DC voltmeter across the battery and it should show 14.5 - 14.7 volts when you rev the engine to about 4000 for about 20 seconds. If the voltage does not rise to this figure your reg/rec is likely toast. If the voltage comes up but it won't start another day your battery is toast.

Done deal.
 
Dopesick said:
Uhh dude, did you even read the thread???

And for matter of correctness, it is : Fuel & Air, COMPRESSION, Spark, Exhaust.



The VFR crowd believe they have it pegged down as a Heat vs Air Flow issue.
Many folks believe the stock R/R overheats (due to small heatsink and minimal air flow) and shortens it's life greatly. Some has gone as far to confirm this as enhancing the stock heatsink with MORE heatsink and transfer paste, and some have even added CPU heatsink/cooling fan assemblies on them. They all noticed increased life span.

Now personally I can't say if the replacement parts were updated throughout production enough to deal with the issue, or if the "upgrades" folks made actually worked or not.
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This!

I own a VFR and went through the same issue. Honda's older RR has a crappy heat sink and a gap between the RR and the subframe. The newer RR should have a beefer heatsink and that gap is now filled with a metal plate to transfer heat to the subframe and away from the RR.
 
Dopesick said:
Uhh dude, did you even read the thread???

And for matter of correctness, it is : Fuel & Air, COMPRESSION, Spark, Exhaust.



The VFR crowd believe they have it pegged down as a Heat vs Air Flow issue.
Many folks believe the stock R/R overheats (due to small heatsink and minimal air flow) and shortens it's life greatly. Some has gone as far to confirm this as enhancing the stock heatsink with MORE heatsink and transfer paste, and some have even added CPU heatsink/cooling fan assemblies on them. They all noticed increased life span.

Now personally I can't say if the replacement parts were updated throughout production enough to deal with the issue, or if the "upgrades" folks made actually worked or not.
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thx for the info, very helpful
 
Let'e assume the R/R is bad and the battery is weak. Now you charge the battery and start the bike. It runs like shit---PERHAPS because the bike is running off the crap battery
due to the crap R/R. I suspect you have a battery with a bad cell and maybe a bad R/R as well. See how it runs with a known good battery in it.
 
The battery could still be good and appear to be the problem when it is really the rectifier or regulator. Realize that a good battery will lose all it's charge if the rectifier is not converting enough of the charge from the stator to dc and/or if the regulator is not allowing enough voltage to reach the battery after the rectifier has converted the ac to dc. If this is occurring the battery is running constantly without being replenished/recharged. Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
 
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This thread is the very reason why BARF sucks. You guys are full of misinformation. You are all assuming that its his R/R. Yet, his battery is charged.

RR or no RR, if the battery has juice to turn the motor, it would fire the bike up. Especially a fuel injected bike. Im not gonna say anything for sure as to what the issue is, but it sure sounds as if the bike has no compression or the timing is off.

Hey OP, were any aftermarket parts installed to the bike(pipe, ignition advancer, Power Commander)? Remove all that crap and start at the basics. Spark. Pull a plug lead and test for spark. Yes? Okay, check compression. Yes? Okay check injection system. Yes? Okay check timing. etc etc etc.
 
F4i have been notorious for having fuel pressure regulators going bad as well.Check your charging system first,stator, battery and regulator.If everything is good then more than likely your fpr is bad.If you want to test your fuel pressure regulator,just pull the vacuum hose off of it and if you see gas leaking then it is bad.
 
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akacastle said:
The battery could still be good and appear to be the problem when it is really the rectifier or regulator. Realize that a good battery will lose all it's charge if the rectifier is not converting enough of the charge from the stator to dc and/or if the regulator is not allowing enough voltage to reach the battery after the rectifier has converted the ac to dc. If this is occurring the battery is running constantly without being replenished/recharged. Anyone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.
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If the battery is actually good, the bike will run fine with a bad R/R until the voltage in the battery gets low. Then the missing starts. :nerd
 
Just do it

Danibee said:
Fuel, spark, air. It is one of these things. Diagnose starting with the easiest first. For spark get to your plugs and see if your getting any. Do buy the repair manual for your bike. Save you a bunch in the long run. Don't be afraid to get in there either if your so inclined. Good luck!!!
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I agree, buy the shop manual, not the chiltons or other ones out there but the manufacturers manual. You just need to do it. Good luck.
 
A lot of good stuff for me to look into but I am really at a loss.

Here is a quick series of events:

1. Bike ran fine, had issues starting
2. Engine is not turning over but is cranking
3. Towed to a shop where the battery was boosted, bike starts fine and they find no issues
4. Ride for a couple days with no issue
5. Starter is not cranking but everything else powers on
6. Leave it hooked to battery tender while on vacation
7. Come back and the bike starts up fine
8. Ride for a couple days
9. Bike is now stuck at step 5.

I bought a new battery hoping it would fix my problem but it was just more of a headache and did not resolve the issue. Those Megaboost batteries are a pain in my assholes. I miss riding.

Thanks everyone!
 
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