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Chain tension testing: the screwdriver method

sanjuro

sanjuro

Rider
Joined
Jul 1, 2009
Location
Oaklamd
Moto(s)
GSX-R 1000
Name
Steve
I read one method to check chain tension is to use a round screwdriver, about 3-4 mm in diameter, and feed it between the chain and the sprocket. At 6'o clock on the sprocket, the chain should be tight.

Good method?
 
i do that to make sure the rear wheel is against the adjusters when tightening the rear axle. however, id never think i could get consistent chain tension w/ that method. just buy a short metric rule and measure it.
 
Best to sit on the bike and have someone check the chain slack.
While you can't always do this its a good idea.
 
sanjuro said:
I read one method to check chain tension is to use a round screwdriver, about 3-4 mm in diameter, and feed it between the chain and the sprocket. At 6'o clock on the sprocket, the chain should be tight.

Good method?
Click to expand...

Why not just use the method described by the manufacturer in the owners manual? (which almost certainly is not jamming a screwdriver under the chain)
 
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thedub said:
Why Not just use the method described by the manufacturer in the owners manual? (which almost certainly is not jamming a screwdriver under the chain)
Click to expand...


Really, :thumbup This method doesn't have to be re-invented.

And...if the chain has been used much...the slack has to be check - check - check - checked, in a verity of spots, as you turn the wheel, to find if the chain has tighter slack at spots...They don't wear equally along the length.
 
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louemc said:
Really, :thumbup This method doesn't have to be re-invented.

And...if the chain has been used much...the slack has to be check - check - check - checked, in a verity of spots, as you turn the wheel, to find if the chain has tighter slack at spots...They don't wear equally along the length.
Click to expand...

this.

And the worst thing for a chain is to be too tight. When I tech bikes at the track, I think the ratio of too tight to too loose is probably 5 to 1. Way too many chains out there too tight.
 
I was taught to use a doubled red shop rag between the chain and sprocket, instead of a screwdriver jammed in there, then verify against the bike's particular chain tension spec--and to check at multiple points for tight spots.
 
Sanjuro, thanks for inadvertently acknowledging that there are tight spots and loose spots in chain tension. It's an important 2nd-to-last step to move the chain through its cycle after you've set tension to ensure you don't have any tight spots. Then double check your axle nut torque, safety wire & go.
 
find the loose spot, then tap the auto-chain tensioner w/a plastic or rubber mallet = CLICK! done....

or there's the manual old-fashioned way...most bikes have autos now right?
 
louemc said:
Really, :thumbup This method doesn't have to be re-invented.

And...if the chain has been used much...the slack has to be check - check - check - checked, in a verity of spots, as you turn the wheel, to find if the chain has tighter slack at spots...They don't wear equally along the length.
Click to expand...
agreed!!!

Nemo Brinker said:
instead of a screwdriver jammed in there,
Click to expand...
jammed? usually i gently place the shaft of the screwdriver in the "valley" of the sprocket teeth & roll the wheel back so the chain pinches it & it pulls the axle "taught" on both adjusters. "jamming" while great for rock & roll isn't a turn i often use when describing how to properly do motorcycle mechanics :teeth
 
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EastBayDave said:
find the loose spot, then tap the auto-chain tensioner w/a plastic or rubber mallet = CLICK! done....

or there's the manual old-fashioned way...most bikes have autos now right?
Click to expand...

Wait, Wot? We are talkin chain driving the rear wheel, aren't we?

What is "auto-chain tensioner" Sounds like cam drive.

And "loose spot", ... I find the tightest spot (least slack) and make my correct slack, adjustment there.
 
louemc said:
Wait, Wot? We are talkin chain driving the rear wheel, aren't we?

What is "auto-chain tensioner" Sounds like cam drive.

And "loose spot", ... I find the tightest spot (least slack) and make my correct slack, adjustment there.
Click to expand...
waitttaminute...

:afm199 sorry, brain fart= was thinking cam-chain-tensioner from back in the day w/the autos first appeared. While doing your shims (& removing cams), during re-install that's how you tightened up the cam-chain as they always seemed a bit loose....plastic-mallet was perfect.

der-yup
 
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