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CR250 Clutch Problem

Chillax719

Chillax719

New member
Joined
Oct 10, 2005
Location
Manila, Philippines
Moto(s)
2019 Africa Twin Adventure Sports, 2017 690 Duke R
Name
Cary
My smoker's clutch is like an on/off switch just like its powerband. This makes it extremely difficult to lay down the power, since I can't play with the clutch. It bites hard still with no signs of slippage. I have changed the clutch cable and adjusted the play to the best that I can. I am not too familiar with clutches internally, but wouldn't mind working on it to learn something. The problem seems to be internal. Can I adjust something in there to give me a more gradual engagement of the clutch?
 
Maybe your clutch basket is getting chewed up.


The clutch plates have tabs on them that sit in teeth on the clutch basket, the tabs wear groves into the clutch basket over time. Take the clutch apart and see if the basket is groved.



A general guideline for pulling out clutch plates; remove the preasure plate bolts a little at a time in a star pattern, so you don't warp the pressure plate. Keep track of what order the plates came out, some clutches use a combination of plate thickness installed in a specific order( I think your cr has all the same plate sizes though, mine does).


Oh, and one side of the steel plates' edges is sharp, and one side is rounded, the metal plates are installed sharp side out.
 
If I do find that it's grooved, is there a fix, or do I replace the basket?

Thanks for the useful info. It's the best answer I've gotten so far, even after posting on Thumpertalk.
 
Replace basket if grooved,


You might not be getting many answers because this isn't the normal symptom of basket wear. I just figured that maybe the fiber plates were getting hung up on the basket on the way back together, making the clutch catchy.


Plus, taking the clutch plates out and doing an inspection is free, so it doesn't cost anything but time to cross it of the trouble list.

My cr has a reuseable rubber gasket instead of a paper one too, so you don't have to buy another one (yours should too, but I am not certain which years, maybe all of them, have a rubber gasket).

The shop manual (Haynes makes a great CR one believe it or not) has the procedure for checking the basket.
 
I'm not sure which brand, but I just got myself a shop manual.

I have also been reading a bit online and have found that it may just be an adjustment on the clutch rod that disengages the whole thing. It's really not that its catchy, but more that the friction zone is so tiny. I can't play with the clutch.

Thanks again!
 
My buddy had an SV650 that was having clutch problems, he found that the basket was grooved - he filed the grooves out and solved his issues. Granted it's not a cr250, but I'd give the filing a shot before buying a new basket (unless they're super cheap, I didn't bother to check).
 
What type of oil or weight are you using?.
 
Im using 85 wt oil. I dont think it's an oil problem. When I depress the clutch even half an inch the clutch disengages. Ive tried adjusting everything I can except for the clutch itself. Ill crack it open tomorrow and have a look inside. There must be a way to adjust the push rod. I could just have a worn clutch and springs.
 
trans oil

I recall that Trans Oil from Honda is 10w-40. A side note that auto trans oil works quite well for race apps. the grinch is on track with the clutch as is the mention of the file work to remove the grooves.
 
Chillax719 said:
My smoker's clutch is like an on/off switch just like its powerband. This makes it extremely difficult to lay down the power, since I can't play with the clutch. It bites hard still with no signs of slippage. I have changed the clutch cable and adjusted the play to the best that I can. I am not too familiar with clutches internally, but wouldn't mind working on it to learn something. The problem seems to be internal. Can I adjust something in there to give me a more gradual engagement of the clutch?
Click to expand...

is this when the bike is hot or cold?.
 
Chillax719 said:
My smoker's clutch is like an on/off switch just like its powerband. This makes it extremely difficult to lay down the power, since I can't play with the clutch. It bites hard still with no signs of slippage. I have changed the clutch cable and adjusted the play to the best that I can. I am not too familiar with clutches internally, but wouldn't mind working on it to learn something. The problem seems to be internal. Can I adjust something in there to give me a more gradual engagement of the clutch?
Click to expand...

It could be as simple as adjusting the clutch, starting from the basket up to the lever.. or it could be your steel's are warped and the friction plates are cooxored... or your basket could be notched and fuxored.. or.. it could be all three..

I'm betting it's a combination of the three..
 
I've had great success on many bikes lightly filing the grooves in the clutch basket.


the grinch said:
Oh, and one side of the steel plates' edges is sharp, and one side is rounded, the metal plates are installed sharp side out.
Click to expand...

Holy crap, I've been working on bikes for a very long time and I never knew that. I didn't think it mattered!
 
Just wanted to see how your clutch was coming along.


Good advice going on in this thread for you.


To check your plates for warpage;
Place them on a mirror or a sheet of glass (the item needs to be super flat)
Try sliding a feeler guage under the plate at various spots along the edge of the plate
If any of the feelers larger than 0.10 mm can slide under any spot in the plate, you definately must replace the clutch plates.


Also, do you have an Barnett clutch in your bike?

And Two-Stroke touched on an interesting issue, make sure the gear oil gets replaced often. I change mine at least once a year, it seems that twice per top end interval is fine; depending on how fine of dust you are riding in. I imagine that the gear oil would have to be awefully bad to effect the clutch, I suppose with enough neglect...

I like Bel Ray 80w gear oil, it doesn't seem to foam as much as other gear oils that I've used
 
Filing the basket will probably solve your problem but once you file it...it wears even faster (because of the added freeplay). Still, it's the cheapest way to go. If you have $ to spend ,get a Hinson clutch basket, they are hardened and will far outlast the stock unit.
 
Ironbutt said:
It could be as simple as adjusting the clutch, starting from the basket up to the lever.. or it could be your steel's are warped and the friction plates are cooxored... or your basket could be notched and fuxored.. or.. it could be all three..

I'm betting it's a combination of the three..
Click to expand...

Im hoping its just adjustment because it doesn't act funny. The friction zone is just tiny.

the grinch said:
Just wanted to see how your clutch was coming along.


Good advice going on in this thread for you.


To check your plates for warpage;
Place them on a mirror or a sheet of glass (the item needs to be super flat)
Try sliding a feeler guage under the plate at various spots along the edge of the plate
If any of the feelers larger than 0.10 mm can slide under any spot in the plate, you definately must replace the clutch plates.


Also, do you have an Barnett clutch in your bike?

And Two-Stroke touched on an interesting issue, make sure the gear oil gets replaced often. I change mine at least once a year, it seems that twice per top end interval is fine; depending on how fine of dust you are riding in. I imagine that the gear oil would have to be awefully bad to effect the clutch, I suppose with enough neglect...

I like Bel Ray 80w gear oil, it doesn't seem to foam as much as other gear oils that I've used
Click to expand...

Thanks again. I havent started yet, but will get on it tomorrow morning when I have some time. I will definitely take it all into consideration and look at all these factors.

I change gear oil every 3 rides since it is pretty cheap.

kxmike said:
Filing the basket will probably solve your problem but once you file it...it wears even faster (because of the added freeplay). Still, it's the cheapest way to go. If you have $ to spend ,get a Hinson clutch basket, they are hardened and will far outlast the stock unit.
Click to expand...

I have a stock clutch and I probably will file it down if I see any notches. Dont have the $$$ for a new one right now.
 
I think I've figured it out. The previous owner changed the clutch and lost the tiny ball bearing that is in between the push rod and lifter, so there is a gap between the lifter and the pressure plate. This most likely answers my question about the abnormal play and the small friction zone.

I looked at my shop manual and even went down to dealer, but there is no such part. Now, I am sure that I saw that there is a ball bearing in there because someone showed me his dismantled clutch from a bike of the same year.

Any ideas where I can score that ball bearing?
 
yes, but not on your exact model. if the pressure plate lifter foot has an enclosed area where the pushrod sits(see pic below), it's probably about the same diameter as a valve shim and so the valve shim is totally held in place. i used about a 2.8mm yamaha/gsxr shim, which is the smaller diameter type. the nice thing about this solution is, you can choose a shim thickness that reduces the slop, but is not too tight clearance wise. and there is no way a valve shim is ever going to get smashed, they are very hard. home depot or ace sells individual bearing balls too, in the misc hw drawers. not sure about the quality/hardness of them tho.



pressure plate lifter foot:

XX
XXXXXXXXXX
XXShim <-----pushrod------------
XXXXXXXXXX
XX


YMMV
 
PantyBuncher said:
yes, but not on your exact model. if the pressure plate lifter foot has an enclosed area where the pushrod sits(see pic below), it's probably about the same diameter as a valve shim and so the valve shim is totally held in place. i used about a 2.8mm yamaha/gsxr shim, which is the smaller diameter type. the nice thing about this solution is, you can choose a shim thickness that reduces the slop, but is not too tight clearance wise. and there is no way a valve shim is ever going to get smashed, they are very hard. home depot or ace sells individual bearing balls too, in the misc hw drawers. not sure about the quality/hardness of them tho.



pressure plate lifter foot:

XX
XXXXXXXXXX
XXShim <-----pushrod------------
XXXXXXXXXX
XX


YMMV
Click to expand...

Thanks! This is exactly the type of fix I was searching for, and that diagram is exactly how it is in my clutch. I buttoned it up and filled it with oil, cause I wanted to ride. I'll get on it after I change the oil again.

Any ideas on how I can measure the gap? It seems a waste to buy a shim kit for just this job.
 
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