VeloceMoto
New member
OK, how about this oneLess junk on there.
Tried to make the green area on the 'film' blurry looking, which is how it would appear.
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Digital SLR / DSLR Camera Question / DSLR Thread 2
- Thread starter gar1013
- Start date
Cycle61
What the shit is this...
Great choice!
It should serve you well. Still, get yourself the 50/1.8 too. Looks pretty good to me. Good overview for someone just getting into digital slr's. Some stuff over-simplified, of course, but nothing glaringly wrong that I saw in a quick readthrough.
VeloceMoto
New member
OK, so I'm reading something in the manual about CPU lenses. Do I have a CPU lens, and what is it? 
VeloceMoto
New member
Ok, so I put the camera in manual mode to take a picture ...but it doesn't take a picture. It focuses and then sits there, mocking me.
When I turn it to full-auto, it takes pictures. What am I doing wrong?
When I turn it to full-auto, it takes pictures. What am I doing wrong?
If it's in manual mode it but won't shoot maybe it's because your choices of aperture and shutter speed won't work?
That is, the camera knows that the shot won't come out, given those speeds.
I dunno...it sounds odd to me but I don't know that camera model.
That is, the camera knows that the shot won't come out, given those speeds.
I dunno...it sounds odd to me but I don't know that camera model.
TylerW
Well-known member
Without triying too hard to understand the math & science behind DOF, here are some of the ways that I learned to understand it.
There are four factors that control depth of field - Focal length, Aperture, focal distance and size of the imaging plane (the sensor) And when I say that there is more depth of field, that means that more of the image is in focus.
greater focal length (telephoto lenses) = less depth of field
smaller focal distance (closer you are to subject) = less depth of field
bigger aperture (lower f/stop number) = less depth of field
Bigger imaging plane = less depth of field. (this explains why dSLR's are capable of achieving less depth of field than point & shoots. Point shoots have tiny sensors)
There are four factors that control depth of field - Focal length, Aperture, focal distance and size of the imaging plane (the sensor) And when I say that there is more depth of field, that means that more of the image is in focus.
greater focal length (telephoto lenses) = less depth of field
smaller focal distance (closer you are to subject) = less depth of field
bigger aperture (lower f/stop number) = less depth of field
Bigger imaging plane = less depth of field. (this explains why dSLR's are capable of achieving less depth of field than point & shoots. Point shoots have tiny sensors)
Cycle61
What the shit is this...
OK, so I'm reading something in the manual about CPU lenses. Do I have a CPU lens, and what is it?
Yes, your lens has a CPU. Any lens with autofocus, and plenty of those without, will have a chip in it that communicates with the camera regarding focal length, aperture, focus distance, etc.
Need more info. The thing nismodan mentioned is not the problem. The camera will take a picture in full manual, no matter how far off your settings are. Th point of manual mode is that you are in full control, and the camera will not try to outsmart you.
VeloceMoto
New member
Cool!
Hmm, I think maybe it was doing that because I had autofocus on and it couldn't focus (maybe because of the light, or lack thereof?)
Man, I had so much fun taking photos today! Digital SLRs are awesome!!
VeloceMoto
New member
I was out today in force, photographing everything in sight. 
I didn't plan on taking pictures of motorcycles, but this one turned out OK. Maybe it's a BARFer! I was playing around with the whole pan thing; a little tricky at first, but I started to get the hang of it.
Taken in front of the Four Seasons, Market Street.
I didn't plan on taking pictures of motorcycles, but this one turned out OK. Maybe it's a BARFer! I was playing around with the whole pan thing; a little tricky at first, but I started to get the hang of it.
Taken in front of the Four Seasons, Market Street.
Attachments
cool 695
VeloceMoto
New member
How do I calculate my effective focal length when not using an SLR with a full-frame sensor?
Joebar4000
New member
- Joined
- Nov 17, 2002
- Location
- Los Gatos hills
- Moto(s)
- Anything I can get my hands on for now
- Name
- Ian
Cool pic!
Re: Calculations, need to know your sensor size.
It gets weird, as 50mm is 'neutral', but with a smaller sensor, it'll be zoomed, but without the same effect on parallax that a zoomed lens would have. The perspective will still be neutral, you're just seeing less of what the lens sees. Basically, the smaller the sensor, the more 'zoomed' it will appear.
Re: Calculations, need to know your sensor size.
It gets weird, as 50mm is 'neutral', but with a smaller sensor, it'll be zoomed, but without the same effect on parallax that a zoomed lens would have. The perspective will still be neutral, you're just seeing less of what the lens sees. Basically, the smaller the sensor, the more 'zoomed' it will appear.
masameet
Rawr!
I think the D70 has a magnification value of 1.5. So if you're shooting with a 50 mm lens, your camera is "seeing" as if it is shooting with a 80 mm lens. To counter that, step back. If you have no room to step back, then get a wider lens. It's that simple.
P.S. To make your next moto picture stand out, shoot closer and try to just have the moto in the frame and nothing else. Moving your camera with the moto as you take the picture is a nice touch. So was including the cable car tracks (good graphics).
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TylerW
Well-known member
A bit of research should reveal your camera's crop factor. Canon non-full frame cameras have a crop factor of 1.6x, except for the 1d series, which have a 1.3x crop factor. Dunno about Nikons, they're used by weirdos
but the info is out there for sure. likely in your owners manual.From there, take your focal lenth, multiply it by the crop factor, and you'll have your effective focal length.
Ex:
50mm x 1.6 = 80mm
18-55mm x 1.6 = 28.8 - 88mm
70-200mm x 1.6 = 112 - 320mm
its that simple!
Baptistro
Bapmarker
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2002
- Location
- SFO, Oaktown, Pinole
- Moto(s)
- 01 G1K, 02 BERG FE400E, 07 DRZ125L
- Name
- John 219
- BARF perks
- 2006 /2007 Barfie Winner
We're loving the new camera. I'll have some shots on here tonight.
Can you say 700 shots in 3 days?
Can you say 700 shots in 3 days?
TylerW
Well-known member
We're loving the new camera. I'll have some shots on here tonight.
Can you say 700 shots in 3 days?
is there a problem with the camera? why's it shooting so slow?
VeloceMoto
New member
Awesome, thanks guys.
Another random question... Clearly, if I've learned anything at all in these last few weeks, I've learned that fast lenses are king.
Can someone explain to me why an f/1.2 costs more than an f/1.4 and an f/1.8 (significantly so!). What's so hard about making the window open wider?
Another random question... Clearly, if I've learned anything at all in these last few weeks, I've learned that fast lenses are king.
Can someone explain to me why an f/1.2 costs more than an f/1.4 and an f/1.8 (significantly so!). What's so hard about making the window open wider?
wannabe
"Insignificant Other"
Can someone explain to me why an f/1.2 costs more than an f/1.4 and an f/1.8 (significantly so!). What's so hard about making the window open wider?
You're assuming that the window opening is the limiting factor. It's the size of the window that makes the difference. Every time you step up in aperture size, the physical glass needs to be bigger also.
TylerW
Well-known member
There's a bit of history here as well. everyone and their mother makes a 50mm f/1.8 for dirt cheap because for the longest time because of their reputation as a "normal" lens - meaning that on a full frame camera, the 50mm lens would provide a neutral level of magnification. For this reason 50mm primes were the defacto kit lens for most all manual 35mm film SLR's. And because thye were kit lenses, every company learned to make them both good and cheap, and that knowledge hasn't gone away.
the f/1.2 is a lot more expensive also because it is manufactured and sold under Canon's "L" top of the line lens designation, which means its REALLY robustly built, the lenses are made out of unobtanium, and have a considerable cult of personality upping the pricepoint.
Want to know how bad it can get? Canon used to produce a 50mm f/1.0. Even copies in roughed up shape will easily pull $5000 if you're lucky enough to be selling one. What's more, Karl Zeiss manufactured a grand total of 3 50mm f/0.7 lenses for Nasa. Two of them were acquired by Stanley Kubrick to film the candlelit scenes in Barry Lyndon. I couldn't even find a price for them, but I'm sure the old saying holds up, if you have to ask...
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