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Engine still overheating

stav2201

stav2201

V Yes RLY
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Location
San ramon Valley
Moto(s)
2009 Kawi ZX6R
Name
Alex
SO i just replaced the impeller on my waterpump since a fin broke when i dropped the bike. I bled the system 5 times and it is still over heating. Any ideas on what it may be?

If it is a broken waterpump, is there a simple way to check it? (other than assuming its broken)

Anybody got any ideas?
 
By overheating, do you mean 'the temperature shoots up to 250 degrees' or do you mean that the temperature will rise over 220 if you leave it idling in the driveway?

Is there any change in beahvior since before the impeller repair?
 
Burning1 said:
By overheating, do you mean 'the temperature shoots up to 250 degrees' or do you mean that the temperature will rise over 220 if you leave it idling in the driveway?

Is there any change in beahvior since before the impeller repair?
Click to expand...

It will gradually go over 220 when idling. I stop it before hitting 235 (this even if the fan comes on).

Oh, an i took the water pump apart, everything looks good in it, The impeller shaft is fully intact and the connecting rod inside the engine is in 1 piece, all bearings look good as well.
 
Im guessing its one of these issues..

1- Thermostat is broken... (im gonna check that right now infact)
2- I rly suck at adding coolant and im doing it wrong
3- i have a cracked block/ broken gasket (no loss or irregular power to engine though when idling) stays on 1.7k rpms perfectly.
3- Or.... i dunno lol
 
Maybe some of the broken impeller bits from before have lodged elsewhere in the water passages.
 
Check your pressure cap. There are three seals on it. Make sure all are free of debris and not cracked and hard. Any tiny leak that prevents the buildup of pressure in the system is a problem. And you have to have enough pressure. Without pressure, coolant starts to boil and it's effectiveness at keeping your engine cool greatly diminishes.

Another problem area that is often missed is the overflow system. Remove the overflow hose from the fitting right under the pressure cap. Clean up the fitting. Check to make sure the hose is still soft and compliant. Any loose fit or cracks or crap inside the hose is a problem This seal must be air tight. Otherwise, when your engine cools back down, it'll suck air back into the main part of the cooling system instead of coolant from the overflow resevoir as it should. Air, as I think you know, is a no-no in a cooling system because it's easily compressible and therefore prevents proper pressure buildup.

Finally, once you know your main system can be properly pressurized and your over flow system is air tight, fill to the brim, put the pressure cap on and run the bike up to temp. 200 is OK. Shut it off and wait for it to cool back down. (Good time for a beer.) After it's cool, open the pressure cap again and top the coolant off so that it starts to run down the overflow tube. Put the cap back on. Run the bike again to check.

Oh, and if there is ANY doubt about the condition of your pressure cap, replace it.
 
stav2201 said:
It will gradually go over 220 when idling. I stop it before hitting 235 (this even if the fan comes on).

Oh, an i took the water pump apart, everything looks good in it, The impeller shaft is fully intact and the connecting rod inside the engine is in 1 piece, all bearings look good as well.
Click to expand...

Huh?

If you leave any modern sport bike idling in the driveway, it's going to overheat. Sport bikes simply don't have the radiators and fans required to move heat when the vehicle is stopped - they are designed to go, not to sit around the driveway. The same is true of most anything short of a full touring bike.

If the vehicle is safe to ride, I'd take it out for a few short rides up and down the freeway. If the radiator temps exceed 200 while cruising at 65MPH in this weather, you have a problem. Otherwise you're probably fine.
 
Burning1 said:
Huh?

If you leave any modern sport bike idling in the driveway, it's going to overheat. Sport bikes simply don't have the radiators and fans required to move heat when the vehicle is stopped - they are designed to go, not to sit around the driveway. The same is true of most anything short of a full touring bike.

If the vehicle is safe to ride, I'd take it out for a few short rides up and down the freeway. If the radiator temps exceed 200 while cruising at 65MPH in this weather, you have a problem. Otherwise you're probably fine.
Click to expand...

:thumbup said it well! now quite grippin and start ridin!
 
There's also usually a bleed screw on top of the block. You may need to use your service manual to find it as it's often hidden away somewhere.
 
You have to burp the system.. that means get it hot, leave off the cap and squeeze the hoses.. Eventually the water will overflow and stop popping bubbles out.
 
Burning1 said:
Huh?

If you leave any modern sport bike idling in the driveway, it's going to overheat. Sport bikes simply don't have the radiators and fans required to move heat when the vehicle is stopped - they are designed to go, not to sit around the driveway. The same is true of most anything short of a full touring bike.

If the vehicle is safe to ride, I'd take it out for a few short rides up and down the freeway. If the radiator temps exceed 200 while cruising at 65MPH in this weather, you have a problem. Otherwise you're probably fine.
Click to expand...

Still over heats, I burped the system 3 times, Ive checked for leaks in the hoses, and ive swayed the bike back and forth eveytime i start it up. It is still over heating. (I dunno about new sportbikes over heating, even on the hottest summer day last year when i was riding on the freeway when i was stopped it hit 220 then the fan kicked in and it dropped in temp).
'
Anyone out there wanna come by and check out my bike to make sure im doing everything correct, this is extremely frustrating. I almost feel compelled the do a compression test to see if i have a blown head or somptin.
 
stav2201 said:
Still over heats, I burped the system 3 times, Ive checked for leaks in the hoses, and ive swayed the bike back and forth eveytime i start it up. It is still over heating. (I dunno about new sportbikes over heating, even on the hottest summer day last year when i was riding on the freeway when i was stopped it hit 220 then the fan kicked in and it dropped in temp).
'
Anyone out there wanna come by and check out my bike to make sure im doing everything correct, this is extremely frustrating. I almost feel compelled the do a compression test to see if i have a blown head or somptin.
Click to expand...

Air bubbles should not cause the coolant temperature to read high. Air bubbles actually insulate the engine, reducing the engine's ability to transfer heat into the coolant. As far as I know, you shouldn't see any indication of bubbles on a temp readout.

If you leave the bike idling in the driveway, it will overheat.

I say this as someone who previously rode the piss out of a 2004 GSX-R 600 (30,000 miles in a year and a half. Most of that in the mountains, and all of it local.) I've changed the coolant on the bike many many times in order to flush out the glycol for track use. If it idled for too long (10-15 minutes,) it could hit 240 - even with the fan on.

The only bike I've ever owned that would not overheat sitting at an idle is my current K1300GT. Would you like to take a guess at the size of the radiator?

stav2201 said:
Is it possible that when i dropped my bike that the oil pump could of been damaged? or lifters.
Click to expand...

No.

Modern sportbike engines use a cam over bucket design. There are no lifters.

The oil pump would not cause your engine temperature to read high, without also setting off the low pressure indicator.
 
Burning1 said:
Air bubbles should not cause the coolant temperature to read high. Air bubbles actually insulate the engine, reducing the engine's ability to transfer heat into the coolant. As far as I know, you shouldn't see any indication of bubbles on a temp readout.

If you leave the bike idling in the driveway, it will overheat.

I say this as someone who previously rode the piss out of a 2004 GSX-R 600 (30,000 miles in a year and a half. Most of that in the mountains, and all of it local.) I've changed the coolant on the bike many many times in order to flush out the glycol for track use. If it idled for too long (10-15 minutes,) it could hit 240 - even with the fan on.

The only bike I've ever owned that would not overheat sitting at an idle is my current K1300GT. Would you like to take a guess at the size of the radiator?



No.

Modern sportbike engines use a cam over bucket design. There are no lifters.

The oil pump would not cause your engine temperature to read high, without also setting off the low pressure indicator.
Click to expand...
Well , my oil light has been on since i dropped my bike.
But im not sure why it would be on, I have no problems with power concerning the bike, no knocks or pings in the pistons either, (i am due for an oil change soon though). There is also no change in Rpms, idle is at 1.7k and very steady.
This is very frustrating.
 
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You're riding it with the oil light on? Are you trying to damage it? :rolleyes
Troubleshoot the oil pressure sensor and wiring. Post pics of what got damaged.
 
Burning1 said:
Air bubbles should not cause the coolant temperature to read high. Air bubbles actually insulate the engine, reducing the engine's ability to transfer heat into the coolant. As far as I know, you shouldn't see any indication of bubbles on a temp readout.
Click to expand...


Actually, it would cause overheating and here's why:

A pocket of air can easily be compressed by the expanding coolant as the coolant heats up. As a result, the required pressure never builds up in the cooling system and the coolant then can boil at a much lower temperature. Once the coolant starts to boil, it's effectiveness is greatly reduced and things start to get even hotter. End result is overheating.
 
stav2201 said:
Well , my oil light has been on since i dropped my bike. But im not sure why it would be on
Click to expand...

:rolleyes

Maybe the oil pressure sender wire has come loose or worse. This should be one of the first items on the fix-it list.
 
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