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Failed ramp construction, How do I make it work?

1) Park the truck where the front is higher than the rear. Use an uncut piece of wood. Support the wood with jackstands at 1/3 and 2/3 of the length. Place second piece of wood next to it for you to walk on. Have at least one other helper.

2) Move, get job.

3) Buy a quality ramp

4) Profit. :teeth
 
I don't get the constant videos of people riding up and dropping it. I have no intention of doing that, the first time I used ramps (heavy, metal, too short) I idled it up with no issues. I'm here to make something just as good as what's out there and spend a lot less.

I'll be hitting it tomorrow with a new approach. Going to cut one of the 5 footers to 3 ft. and use the remaining 2 feet to join the 5 and 3 foot section together. I'll return the garbage hinges and buy some new, longer bolts.
 
you are using objects for tasks they weren't designed for... what could possibly go wrong ?


Buy real ramps, borrow real ramps, or rent real ramps
 
Hubbard 0 said:
Show me some proper ramps that are reasonably priced and I'll consider, but I already spent this. The wood is strong enough, no question about that. I've been on a building things kick too. Just finished building a fiberglass sub enclosed and an amplifier rack.

I've used shorter ramps before and was very uncomfortable with steep angle. It took two people and was just overly difficult.
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Hubbard 0 said:
I don't get the constant videos of people riding up and dropping it. I have no intention of doing that, the first time I used ramps (heavy, metal, too short) I idled it up with no issues. I'm here to make something just as good as what's out there and spend a lot less.

I'll be hitting it tomorrow with a new approach. Going to cut one of the 5 footers to 3 ft. and use the remaining 2 feet to join the 5 and 3 foot section together. I'll return the garbage hinges and buy some new, longer bolts.
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So far it appears you've essentially wasted your money to build something that won't work well at all.

The videos are people demonstrating what happens when one cuts corners, typical barf tough love.

Let me reiterate what everyone else has said. Buying one good proper ramp (which will likely last you forever) is the only way you should consider going instead of jury-rigging something that can results in some serious property damage as well as injury.

Your ramp design is questionable at best. You're asking for trouble. Seriously-just do it right. Spend the money, eat some more ramen, skip the bar for a couple weeks, and you'll be fine.
 
Im sure you can find someone to help you with a ramp to get it on the bed, maybe even for a six pack. In my opinion, getting the bike off is much easier. I shared this before, but I used tree stumps...

Day13-vi.jpg
 
Bronto said:
Fine example of vector forces that caused the hinge to pull open. Down forces on the board and horizontal force on the butt joint. The leverage of the 2x6 divided by the thickness of the board. Say 300 lbs on the 4 foot section of 2x6 divided by 1 1/2". 300lbs x 48/1.5 = 9600 lbs.

The tension cable is also under high forces but built to withstand it. The tension cable helps minimize warping the board when loaded.
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Please, on behalf of the engineers on this board and the world over, stop trying to do whatever it is you're trying to do.
 
Bronto said:
Heh see If I can use words to paint a picture :D

Butt together the two 2x6. Place a 3ft 2x6 evenly over the butt joint. Use carriage bolts to fasten the 3ft board to other two boards. Two carriage bolts at each end of the 3ft board. One more carriage bolt in the middle of 2x6 @ 3" about 10" from the butt joint.

Picture a long length of 2x6 with a small length of 2x6 attached at its middle.

Use two of these with a 2-3ft width of 3/4" exterior grade plywood.(Use real ply not other stuff :D ) A width can place a foot down and the bike is walked up the ramp.

A safety chain connecting the ramp to the truck so it doesn't shift off the tailgate.

Added strength by using a tension cable under the 2x6. Put a spacer in middle of the 2x6 board to get an angle for the cable. A block made of multiple pieces of 4x 2x6 will do it. Use a metal plate near the end of each 2x6. Mound the plate using multiple wood screws. Drill one 3/8" hole through the 2x6 and plate. Use a carriage bolt with two large washers and nut. Make up a 1/4" cable the length of board plus one turnbuckle. Tighten the cable loop around the 3/8" bolt between two large washers. Tighten the carriage bolt having the cable leading towards the center of the board. Do the same with other side and connect the turnbuckle. Tighten the cable to get a twang sound when plucked.

I know there is assembly required everytime its used. If the boards are mounted to the plywood. Having two shorter length of ply is not unreasonable. The center 2x6 lapping board and then cable connecting is all needed to do.
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We've now built a heavier and more complicated than normal ramp, for probably more money and more work. :thumbup
 
Hubbard 0 said:
I don't get the constant videos of people riding up and dropping it. I have no intention of doing that, the first time I used ramps (heavy, metal, too short) I idled it up with no issues.
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You were lucky, and the people that binned their bikes had no intention of doing damage to their bikes either. :rolleyes

I'm here to make something just as good as what's out there and spend a lot less..
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You can't make something 'just as good' with lumber & hinges. Period. It's like trying to build a house with a screwdriver.

I'll be hitting it tomorrow with a new approach. Going to cut one of the 5 footers to 3 ft. and use the remaining 2 feet to join the 5 and 3 foot section together. I'll return the garbage hinges and buy some new, longer bolts.
Click to expand...
Good luck, probably much easier to hit up a moto shop and see if they can let you borrow their equipment. Might have to leave some kind of deposit. Is your GF hot? :teeth :rofl
 
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