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Front Brakes

The proper way to bed brake pads in is multiple hard stops from speed to near zero (no stopping allowed), and then some time for some cool down. And I mean really getting them hot so you can smell them. Of course, this is easy in a car. Most people aren't going to try that on a bike because of the risk of crashing.

And all pads, regardless of compound, work the same way. A small layer of the pad material is deposited on the rotor and it's the friction between the pad and this thin layer that does most of the work. Change pad material or material formulation and what has been deposited on the rotor from the previous pads may not work well with the new pads. That's the main reason for sticking with the same pads and not switching all the time.

Unless there's a problem with your current master cylinder, don't change it. It was designed to work with your calipers. And I doubt you have a warpage problem. Just clean them to get the old pad material off them. Or replace.

Here's some great info. It's car based but the theories apply to all brake systems.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...pers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures
 
The proper way to bed brake pads in is multiple hard stops from speed to near zero (no stopping allowed), and then some time for some cool down. And I mean really getting them hot so you can smell them. Of course, this is easy in a car. Most people aren't going to try that on a bike because of the risk of crashing.

And all pads, regardless of compound, work the same way. A small layer of the pad material is deposited on the rotor and it's the friction between the pad and this thin layer that does most of the work. Change pad material or material formulation and what has been deposited on the rotor from the previous pads may not work well with the new pads. That's the main reason for sticking with the same pads and not switching all the time.

Unless there's a problem with your current master cylinder, don't change it. It was designed to work with your calipers. And I doubt you have a warpage problem. Just clean them to get the old pad material off them. Or replace.

Here's some great info. It's car based but the theories apply to all brake systems.

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...pers/bed-in-theory-definitions-and-procedures


thanks for the links and wisdom!

this morning I was out of town at a friends house who rides and we wanted to go for a ride in the nice local "twisties" so we ended up using some brake cleaner on the rotors and they work soooo much better! so im gonna go get the pads taken care of and obviously the rotors properly cleaned... although I'm not sure where to do this

I wish I would've known the proper way to seat brake pads.... now i know though!

thanks again everyone :thumbup
 
thanks for the links and wisdom!

this morning I was out of town at a friends house who rides and we wanted to go for a ride in the nice local "twisties" so we ended up using some brake cleaner on the rotors and they work soooo much better! so im gonna go get the pads taken care of and obviously the rotors properly cleaned... although I'm not sure where to do this

I wish I would've known the proper way to seat brake pads.... now i know though!

thanks again everyone :thumbup

No doubt a valuable experience learned along the way and once you perform the necessary duties you be smilin again. :teeth
 
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