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frying stator every 2 months

i appreciate all the help and advice, but both times i got a new stator they were putting out 46v. i dont get it either. i've done all the checks and readings that the guide on rick's website said to do (3 pages)...




this is the rectifier conversion i did...

http://vtr1000f.wickidnet.com/
 
Mayhem said:
yeah, i see the numbers are suppose to be 50-70volt from the stator. but why would you ever need that much voltage? i would think the bike only needs about 20-25 volts. all the unused voltage is suppose to get disapated, but alot of it gets turned into heat thru the wires, and i see that as a bad thing cause it seems to melt my connectors or blow out my rectifier cause it gets too hot.
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The 50-70v is peak-to-peak of an AC waveform. When you rectify it, you chop off the peaks and fill in the valleys with it, so DC output will be lower. RMS of maybe 25v DC.

Then the regulator comes into play and there are many different types. The old style SCR-shunt is a parallel voltage-divider that dumps the excess to ground (linear regulator). So if your bike needs 13.5v @ 10amps (135w), the extra 11.5v@10amps (115w) gets dumped to ground and converted to heat. The stator has to generate 250w of power just to provide your bike with 135w.

The newer regulators do more than just replace the power-transistors with FET equivalents. It is a series (inline) circuit rather than parallel-shunt. The regulator presents a high-ohm load to the stator-coils when little power is needed and very little current flows. When you need more current, such as using high-beams and loud-stereos, the regulator provides a low-ohm load to the coils and more current flows. This design is much more efficient as there is no more load on the stator than needed and no excess power is generated and wasted to ground. THAT is why these newer regulators stay cool, from the circuit design, not that they use MOSFET transistors.

In your case, I think the low AC-voltage with a brand-new stator is a clue. What about your flywheel and magnets? Is the spacing correct? Barely rubbing? Has the flywheel been dropped at some point?
 
after more readings of the stator, i am getting 68volts on all three yellow wires from stator, but i have to hit 6.5k rpm. i was so stuck on the 5k rpm i didnt try going a little higher. :laughing

getting 13.8v - 14.4v from battery now at different rpms. is it correct that when i go higher in rpms that my voltage to battery drops slightly? or is that just a battery need thing, whatever the battery needs to keep it charged.

thanks, the whole mosfet thing is from their website, but thx for clarifying that.

after running the bike for a few minutes (standing still) the rectifier still gets hella hot. (issue)?

thx guys
 
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Mayhem said:
after more readings of the stator, i am getting 68volts on all three yellow wires from stator, but i have to hit 6.5k rpm. i was so stuck on the 5k rpm i didnt try going a little higher. :laughing

getting 13.8v - 14.4v from battery now at different rpms. is it correct that when i go higher in rpms that my voltage to battery drops slightly? or is that just a battery need thing, whatever the battery needs to keep it charged.

thanks, the whole mosfet thing is from their website, but thx for clarifying that.

after running the bike for a few minutes (standing still) the rectifier still gets hella hot. (issue)?

thx guys
Click to expand...

Depends on the rectifier type. Yuo could try to upgrade to a newer style.

http://roadstercycle.com/Shindengen FH012AA Regulator upgrade kit.htm
 
i did upgrade to a ricks hot shot rectifier for an R1. just put it in..
 
Internal battery damage can cause higher charging current demand without notably compromising charging voltage or cranking ability. What it will do though is tax the hell out of charging components and lead to premature stator failure.

To test, it will be necessary to determine charging current. For this, one would need to use an amp meter in series with battery positive or negative, typically an inductive clamp style meter. With meter in place, starting the bike should produce current draw of anywhere from 50-100 cranking amps, with a possible spike much higher when starter initially engages. Then you will want to monitor charging current to see where it goes.

Specs will be impossible to find, but in my experience, it works like this: Initial charging current will be a little high to restore the lost surface voltage incurred by the starter draw. At 4000 RPM, it is not uncommon to record about 30-50% of the stator current capacity, quickly falling closer to 10% within 30 seconds or so.

If your stator is rated at 400 watts, that translates to about 28 amps at 14 volts. (400/14) That is it's maximum capacity. Once bike starts, you should then see 10-15 charging amps initially, and it should taper down to 3-5 amps pretty quick.

If you measure constant, double-digit charging amperage after 30 seconds, that is a sure sign your battery is defective and causing excessive charging current at all times. High current = high heat = premature failure.

In short, bad battery can cause premature stator failure without other obvious symptoms.
 
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thx motech, 4 months ago when i replaced the stator and r/r i also got a new battery. things seem fine now, just seems like the r/r gets pretty hot pretty fast. i'll ride it and keep an eye on the r/r heat and plug..

thinking about moving my r/r to the front of the bike for better airflow.

maybe i'll stop by the shop one day soon and you can guide my non-electrical brain.
 
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Mayhem said:
thx motech, 4 months ago when i replaced the stator and r/r i also got a new battery. things seem fine now, just seems like the r/r gets pretty hot pretty fast. i'll ride it and keep an eye on the r/r heat and plug..

thinking about moving my r/r to the front of the bike for better airflow.

maybe i'll stop by the shop one day soon and you can guide my non-electrical brain.
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Didn't even see you're local. :cool

Give a ring, drop by, we can test charging current in less than 5 minutes.

831-345-3965
 
are you gonna be there today? i might drop by. i'm getting tired of replacing these parts. 90's hondas are notorious for this crap...
 
Mayhem said:
are you gonna be there today? i might drop by. i'm getting tired of replacing these parts. 90's hondas are notorious for this crap...
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I'll be around. Give a heads-up ring before you head over.
 
Aftermarket stators suck.
Electrosport is the worst of them.

Either get an OEM, or go to Custom Rewind to get one of their remanufactured stators.
They absolutely stand behind their work, and I have never had one fail (CX turbos are notorious for chewing up stators every 20k miles).
 
Good to read you're seeing some 68vAC numbers at 6k rpms. Still kind of odd it takes such high rpms to reach that number. You should see good 60-90vAC numbers are lower rpms.

The R/R getting super-duper hot is still worrisome.

You're wise to accept Motech's invite to assist. Hopefully he can help you finally flush out your charging system frying issues.
 
Tim-That CX Guy said:
Aftermarket stators suck.
Electrosport is the worst of them.

Either get an OEM, or go to Custom Rewind to get one of their remanufactured stators.
They absolutely stand behind their work, and I have never had one fail (CX turbos are notorious for chewing up stators every 20k miles).
Click to expand...



i dont have an electrosport stator. i have a a/m honda stator by cycletronics, and a new ricks hot shot rectifier for an R1....yes the aftermarket ones suck, guess i should of spent 360.00 for a factory one.
 
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Many people report very good results with Rick's products, especially as improvement over known-bad OE stuff.
 
a very special thanks to steve (Motech) for taking time out of his day to help me with my electrical. steve, you the man. :hail

on a side note: my stator is putting out 80v at 3.5k rpm.:thumbup

steve checked all my charging system with his hi-tech meters and such, and did a few things to help get rid of any low resistence we found. everything is running top notch..:thumbup

again, thank you very much steve for your time and expertise..:hail

if you need anything and i can help, let me know...
 
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Mayhem said:
a very special thanks to steve (Motech) for taking time out of his day to help me with my electrical. steve, you the man. :hail

on a side note: my stator is putting out 80v at 3.5k rpm.:thumbup
Click to expand...

So what was the magic solution sauce? Dirty electrical connections cleanup or...?
 
mototireguy said:
So what was the magic solution sauce? Dirty electrical connections cleanup or...?
Click to expand...

Everything seemed OK except:
  • Poor ground to subframe/RR mount (over 1/2 volt drop from subframe to battery negative at high RPMs)
  • Fancy wrinkle paint on RR unit was ground inhibitive (Over 1 volt drop from RR case to battery negative at high RPMs)
We provided a 10 ga redundant ground strap from battery negative to RR mount at subframe, buzzed off the go-fast wrinkle paint at all mounting and grounding surfaces, slathered some dielectric and reattached with Nylock hardware. That took care of the ground-side volt drops, and helped provide a better heat sink for regulator.

He still has about a .3 charging volt drop on the positive side between regulator output and battery positive--seeing 14.1 volts at regulator, yet 13.8 at battery at 4000 RPM--but that's probably as good as it gets without some further harness repairs. We traced it to resistance in homemade connectors, and some beefier wiring and better, soldered connectors should clean that right up.

And stator, strong as it is, only puts out about 38 VAC at idle, which rectifier is struggling to convert, resulting in low idle charging of 13 volts. Pick up 200 RPM though, voila: 14 volts.

Good thing is Darin says RR unit seems cooler now with better grounding surfaces, and stator is putting out a solid 80 VAC on all three legs with absolute perfect scope patterns at 4000 RPM. Hell, patterns are perfect everywhere, and probably reaches 100 VAC above 5K, but I ran out of scope screen!

I do not like the RR, but it's working... For now.
 
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i still have a couple wires i gotta solder and that should be it....:thumbup

steve's hi-tech meters blow away my little multimeter...and he knows exactly what to check..

thx again steve..................
 
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