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FZ6 does not start

zixaq

zixaq

New member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Location
San Francisco
Moto(s)
FZ6
Name
Scott
So now that the drama of getting the bike home is done, the tedium of figuring out the problem starts.

2004 FZ6, bought last week from AK Motors in Santa Clara

Symptoms:

When turning key on:
1) display goes blank
2) display goes through normal startup routine, goes blank when I push ignition button, OR
3) oil, fuel, N lights start blinking (it's doing this consistently now)

Exactly one time, I managed to get an error code:

Fault code: Er-1
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No signals are received from the ECU.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring sub lead.
Malfunction in meter.
Malfunction in ECU.
Click to expand...

I got it push-started twice, and it would idle okay, but when put into 1st it died.

Troubleshooting so far:

-No obvious loose connectors or damaged wires around the front end
-Battery cables were tight on the terminals
-Battery reads 12.7V across terminals
-Fuses all appear (visually, did not check with a meter) to be okay

Can't troubleshoot anymore right now (dark and raining), but if this looks familiar to anyone, I'd love any ideas that might help me figure this out faster.
 
Clean the battery connections: sounds like poor connections or loose ground.
 
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Call a local bike tow. Have it taken to AK motors. Stand at the front counter until they fix it.
That is why you pay a premium buying a bike from a shop as opposed to an individual. A shop should stand behind it for a reasonable amount of time. Longer than you are into this.
 
augustiron said:
Call a local bike tow. Have it taken to AK motors. Stand at the front counter until they fix it. That is why you pay a premium buying a bike from a shop as opposed to an individual. A shop should stand behind it for a reasonable amount of time. Longer than you are into this.
Click to expand...

+1 Give AK a chance to look at it.
 
I'll help you haul it down there & wait at the counter with you. Snide comments are free.... :laughing :thumbup
 
Grrr.

I thought I was being clever and tried to swap out the battery with my other motorcycle this morning. Turns out they're different sizes and I can't make it fit.

I got ahold of Adi's mechanic in SF, and he's supposed to come look at it. Hopefully I can get this resolved by Friday so I can go to the Doc Wong clinic.
 
It's probably just the battery. I think I have about a 50% chance of needing to replace the battery on any motorcycle I've bought used. They often sit un-used for a long time before they are sold.
 
Get a new battery and a trickle charger. Every time I get back from a ride, the bike goes on the charger. Every. Single. Time.
 
Unfortunately a charger/tender isn't really an option, as it's parked out on the street.

It still seems weird to me that it would run fine for a week, then the battery completely die right after an hour of riding, but I'm going to try replacing the battery. Right now I'm deciding if it's worth fighting with Adi about this, because he's claiming batteries aren't covered by his warranty. Glad I held off on that Yelp review.
 
Sounds like a low voltage problem. Check battery voltage. Get bike running with jump start if you can and then check voltage at battery with engine running at 3 to 4000 rpm.

Report back.
 
I have a 2004 FZ6 as well. It has been parked outside for a month without trickle charger and started just fine after that. Not saying that a trickle charger is a bad idea but on this bike maybe not absolutely necessary.
As others suggested, I suspect a new battery might help
 
Talked my landlady into letting me use some garage space overnight and a battery charger. I'll leave it to trickle charge overnight and see what happens. (Assuming the charger seems safe to use on a MC battery . . .)

I'm getting really, really tired of constantly taking those plastic panels on and off and trying to work while holding up a fuel tank.
 
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Don't start throwing parts at it. Troubleshoot the electrical system.
 
Hook up the battery with some leads with a plug that you can get at easily and stuff out of the way when you aren't using them. 'Makes hooking up a charger much easier.

Also, check your battery voltage after it's been sitting for 2 hours since either running the bike or disconnecting the charger. Then check voltage at the battery with the engine running at 3 to 4000 rpm. Report back.
 
The charger I borrowed allows a choice of 2A, 10A or 50A (made for cars)

Would it be okay to try to jump the bike at any of those current levels?

I removed the battery and charged it at 2A for several hours and then threw it on a battery tender. I'll try putting it back and starting again in the morning, but if that doesn't work, I'd like to try to jump it.
 
zixaq said:
The charger I borrowed allows a choice of 2A, 10A or 50A (made for cars.
Click to expand...

Rtfm.

The label on every battery made lists the max charge rate. Usually 2amps for small motorcycle batteries. Charging at 10 or 50amps will fry stuff.

U can jump start bikes with a car battery CAR KEY OFF.

Also still waiting for some diagnostic numbers.

Key off battery voltage?

Key on battery voltage?

Bike running low mid rpms battery voltage?
 
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mototireguy said:
Rtfm.

The label on every battery made lists the max charge rate. Usually 2amps for small motorcycle batteries. Charging at 10 or 50amps will fry stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks. The battery label gives a unit of "CA" which is just nonsense as far as I can tell, so I wasn't sure.

U can jump start bikes with a car battery CAR KEY OFF.
Click to expand...

If my fucking wife will listen one of these days and leave the car at home, I intend to try that.

Also still waiting for some diagnostic numbers.

Key off battery voltage?

Key on battery voltage?

Bike running low mid rpms battery voltage?
Click to expand...

After being on the tender all night

Key off: 12.6V (Lower than before)
Key on: 0.03V

Can't measure while running, because still can't get running.

Apparently the battery is toast, but it would be nice to know WHY it's toast so I don't ruin a new one. The bike never sat for more than a day without being ridden. Will try jumping it as soon as I have access to a car.
 
zixaq said:
After being on the tender all night

Key off: 12.6V (Lower than before)
Key on: 0.03V
Click to expand...

Key-on 0.03vdc = Battery kaput. You can recharge the battery all you want and it won't help.

Battery could be kaput because it's the original 10yo battery or could be because it was run flat (sulfated) previously or it was overcharged (fried) previously or not being recharged by the bike. Bike charging system fault could be the regulator/rectifier or failed stator. These possibilities involve other diagnostic tests.

Please review the Battery Charging thread here... http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141
 
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