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Hardy utility sink drain nut how to repair?

AbsolutEnduser

AbsolutEnduser

bike r
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Jan 12, 2006
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The utility sink where the washing machine is draining is getting clogged. Fully stuck with standing water and it drains in > 30 min.

I decided to try to open the pipe under the sink in order to clean and maybe snake it (see second picture).

I applied Liqui Wrenc(from the tiny bottle) on top of both nuts.

A) the top nut doesn't budge!!! how to loosen it? Picture one has the both nuts in large view. Just get a bigger wrench???

B) managed to loosen the mid(lower) nut . Using one of the biggest "channeltype" Irwin wrenches they have BTW.

C) Is the upper nut supposed to loosen in the opposite direction of the mid-nut ??? (that's what I tried)
I think it might be cross threaded. :(

D) OK the biggest question is, is this a too big of a deal? Should I cut the rest of the pipe instead and try to install a P-trap? (see second picture)
- maybe the pipe is completely stuck.. see this gross thing
 

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I would use PB Blaster and wait 5 minutes then use a big monkey wrench. Can even use a pipe in the wrench for more leverage. That should do it.
 
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Righty-Tighty, Lefty Lucy
Old galvanized plumbing sucks to work on, as you have found out.
In the first pic, the top nut and the next nut are going to turn in opposite directions.
Replace all that with plastic plumbing. But use a back up wrench so you don't loosen piping in the wall.
Where is the P-trap?
 
bruceflinch said:
Righty-Tighty, Lefty Lucy
Old galvanized plumbing sucks to work on, as you have found out.
In the first pic, the top nut and the next nut are going to turn in opposite directions.
Replace all that with plastic plumbing. But use a back up wrench so you don't loosen piping in the wall.
Where is the P-trap?
Click to expand...

What he said.

Put some heat on it and the nut will move. Re plumb and add a P trap.
 
Where is the p trap, good question , there is none!
This is in a basement. The pipe goes 4" further horizontally and then after 90 degrees, down in concrete.

Thanks, needed to verify that the other nut should turn in the opposite direction.

Re-plumb??? Can I get away without cutting this steel somehow? Which I probably won't do...no experience in that.
 
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Once you have removed the last coupling before the pipe goes in the wall, you can add a threaded plastic adapter to connect the P trap to.
You should try to clear as much crap out of the galvanized pipe as possible.
 
AbsolutEnduser said:
Where is the p trap, good question , there is none!
This is in a basement. The pipe goes 4" more horizontally and then after 90 degrees, down in concretely.

Thanks, needed to verify that the other nut should turn in the opposite direction.

Re-plumb??? Can I get away without cutting this steel somehow? Which I probably won't do...no experience in that.
Click to expand...

You can put the trap on the back side and use a flex connector if needed to connect to the drain. See examples here.
 

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You are going to put a p trap in regardless of what you want, unless you lift that sink up you will never replace that short chromed connector, nor be able to shoot a snake down that tiny gap.
 
bikeama said:
You can put the trap on the back side and use a flex connector if needed to connect to the drain. See examples here.
Click to expand...

Flex, good idea thanks (if I get there!) The images give the idea. The arrows :thumbup


afm199 said:
unless you lift that sink up you will never replace that short chromed connector, nor be able to shoot a snake down that tiny gap.
Click to expand...

I guess I was hoping if I remove the chromed connector, the 2-3" of space will be enough for my handheld snake.
Since the chrome looks newer than the pipe --- I was thinking *Someone* must've been able to replace it there at some point.

But is this the right approach at all? Or should I try to unscrew the middle piece of the horizontal pipe--or is it glued/welded??? Why would anyone put the middle piece there... could it be for disassembly? (see pic for the whole pipe)
 

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AbsolutEnduser said:
Flex, good idea thanks (if I get there!) The images give the idea. The arrows :thumbup




I guess I was hoping if I remove the chromed connector, the 2-3" of space will be enough for my handheld snake.
Since the chrome looks newer than the pipe --- I was thinking *Someone* must've been able to replace it there at some point.

But is this the right approach at all? Or should I try to unscrew the middle piece of the horizontal pipe--or is it glued/welded??? Why would anyone put the middle piece there... could it be for disassembly? (see pic for the whole pipe)
Click to expand...

Looks like they just added a coupling/nipple to extend the pipe. It was a little short, as evidenced by the cock eyed nipple coming out of the sink.
Just another threaded coupling. Will take 2 pipe wrenches to remove. One on the coupling and one as a backup. The backup is used to keep the pipe from loosening down the line, causing more leaks.
 
Good lord, what a funky setup.

I wonder if there is a hidden p-trap somewhere beyond the concrete. Otherwise OP's basement would stink like sewer. Or does it??? I only say that, having pondered floor drains that you sometimes see in public bathrooms. I guess there is a trap below them even if it's largely inaccessible.

The good thing is that, nowadays, you have the rubberized connectors with hose-clamps that will ease the fix over the standing pipe (coming out of the floor). I'd feel like sawzalling that joint and just covering it over with said connector. Save the labors for getting that crap off right below the sink.

Don't know where OP lives, but I'd take that pic to the Eames boys at Ace Hardware at McBryde in Richmond. They'll sell you everything to fix it right. But hurry, they are going out of business at the end of the month.
 
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The middle piece (a coupling) is there to get the correct distance between the two elbows AND because that's what he had in the truck (the nipples and coupling). The plumber didn't have the time or equipment to cut a piece of pipe the correct length to fit between the two elbows.

Replace everything between the sink and the vertical drain pipe going down into the floor. You'll be happier and it will be easier than effing around with old rusted pipes. And install a P trap. Stinky sewer gas is stinky and can be flammable.

Also, it's all screwed together. No welding. Don't weld around sewer gas. With the rust on there the easiest route would be to cut the pipe with a sawzall a few inches before in goes into the downstream elbow (leave enough pipe sticking out to get a pipe wrench on it).
 
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seadog said:
The middle piece (a coupling) is there to get the correct distance between the two elbows AND because that's what he had in the truck (the nipples and coupling). The plumber didn't have the time or equipment to cut a piece of pipe the correct length to fit between the two elbows.

Replace everything between the sink and the vertical drain pipe going down into the floor. You'll be happier and it will be easier than effing around with old rusted pipes. And install a P trap. Stinky sewer gas is stinky and can be flammable.
Click to expand...

Man, I don't think a real plumber did that job, do you?
 
AbsolutEnduser said:
Flex, good idea thanks (if I get there!) The images give the idea. The arrows :thumbup




I guess I was hoping if I remove the chromed connector, the 2-3" of space will be enough for my handheld snake.
Since the chrome looks newer than the pipe --- I was thinking *Someone* must've been able to replace it there at some point.

But is this the right approach at all? Or should I try to unscrew the middle piece of the horizontal pipe--or is it glued/welded??? Why would anyone put the middle piece there... could it be for disassembly? (see pic for the whole pipe)
Click to expand...
You have a perfect setup for a P trap.

Remove all the plumbing except for the last 90 degree fitting and the nipple that comes out of it. To really do it right, you'd replace that last 90 with a long sweep 90 but it's just a sink. Or pull the ninety and install a Sanitary tee, which is a ninety with an outlet above for a snake. That's the right right way to do it.

You now have the setup to install a P trap.

You can wrench it all out, but if it were me I'd use a sawzall.
 
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