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Harley Machine Shop

ratsblast

ratsblast

Active member
Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Location
Belmont
Moto(s)
1997 1200xlh
Name
Daryn
Well someone said "they run best before they blow." My sportster blew the rear head gasket, fucking head bolt loosened, had been blow for awhile. Finally got the mixture dialed. Well I pulled it all apart for a quick and dirty reseal, but decided to take the head apart for new valve seals. The leakdown revealed blown head gasket rear and leaky exhaust seat front.

The exhaust seats and valves are pitted so I need to find a shop get a valve job done.

Any one have any suggestion on a shop around the peninsula or SF. The local guy who rebuelled my BeLast is gone now.
 
Hannan’s Machine shop in Hayward specializes in HD
 
Curt Winter at BTR Moto builds Harley hill climbers and track bikes. He'd done some amazing work on those things. He's in Hayward also.

Mad
 
Do both heads. If one has problems, the other like does as well.

Also, it seams unusual for just fastener to back out. Before putting it back together, check the condition of the threads at the other end which I assume are in the case.
 
Both heads are taken apart now, the front head actually had a worse looking valve seat. Ended up breaking an exhaust stud so might let shop get it out or do it myself, havent decided.

The sporty has around 47k miles, 22 years, and a few previous owners so falling apart is expected. I am replacing half of the case studs, the ones I removed were a bitch to get out, thank god they didnt break.

Hope after this, the breaking game will be over. One thing after another shut my shit down. Thanks for the suggestions think I am gonna head over to Hayward.
 
ST Guy said:
Do both heads. If one has problems, the other like does as well.

Also, it seams unusual for just fastener to back out. Before putting it back together, check the condition of the threads at the other end which I assume are in the case.
Click to expand...

OEM Harley Evo base gaskets and head gaskets tend to shrink over time. The bolt backed because there was no tension.

I use Cometic MLS head gaskets and Hannon's custom base gaskets when I reassemble any Harley engine. The head studs are torque to yield, but the ARP upgrade is worth the money.

Good luck.
 
Makes sense that the bolts loose tension because the gaskets get all squished down, some of the rocker bolts also seemed loose. I notice Harley changed to a metal base gasket, I had good luck with the paper ones on the BeLast if you warm it up. Time to get this thing back together.
 

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Hannan’s Machine Shop.

So... ya got 47K on the motor. Since you got them off doing both heads is a must, but after you get it back together you may notice little puffs of "blue" from oil being pulled past them 47K rings.

I'd seriously consider pulling the barrels and have them checked too. They will be able to tell you if just a light hone and new rings are needed or if they need to be bored, which that means new pistons and rings.

Just saying.
 
ratsblast said:
Makes sense that the bolts loose tension because the gaskets get all squished down, some of the rocker bolts also seemed loose. I notice Harley changed to a metal base gasket, I had good luck with the paper ones on the BeLast if you warm it up. Time to get this thing back together.
Click to expand...

Hey Ratsblast. Trying to contact you about the direct lift seal kit you have... still have it? I cant pm here or post in classifieds yet.
Mwengrin@verizon.net
 
Absolutely Hannons! Riders even ship heads to him from the east coast.
Might as well upgrade the springs and guides while he has them.
 
To put this baby to bed, I fucked up by breaking an exhaust stud then made a mess drilling it out. Was able to get enough meat to hold the header to the head though, only 5ftlbs torque on exhaust studs. . Being cheap, angry, and stupid I didn't give up, I lapped to the valves into the seats enough to seal the valves. Also replaced the valve guide seals.

Bike still runs and just turned over 50k miles. Ended up finding 2005 sporty engine that blew crank oil pump drive gear, one of the crank bearing in the case was wallowed out causing oil pump drive gear to run out til it broke and locked up oil pump. Gonna use the XB heads on the sporty, just thinking about what cams to run and whether to go over .500 lift. The blown engine has some wiseco 10.5:1 forged pistons I might use. Looked to be in alright shape.
 

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ratsblast said:
To put this baby to bed, I fucked up by breaking an exhaust stud then made a mess drilling it out. Was able to get enough meat to hold the header to the head though, only 5ftlbs torque on exhaust studs. . Being cheap, angry, and stupid I didn't give up, I lapped to the valves into the seats enough to seal the valves. Also replaced the valve guide seals.

Bike still runs and just turned over 50k miles. Ended up finding 2005 sporty engine that blew crank oil pump drive gear, one of the crank bearing in the case was wallowed out causing oil pump drive gear to run out til it broke and locked up oil pump. Gonna use the XB heads on the sporty, just thinking about what cams to run and whether to go over .500 lift. The blown engine has some wiseco 10.5:1 forged pistons I might use. Looked to be in alright shape.
Click to expand...

Good work on the XB heads. Have them freshened up before you install them, if you can. I'd also use those pistons and barrels, with a set of new rings and a hone job at least. I've had good luck with Hastings Chro-moly rings, but use what you like.
The XB12 cams are a great option, and work very well with those heads. The way that setup works, it builds power from 4-7krpm. You're losing a little of that ability with a Sportster bottom end, and definitely need a bigger carb to get the power out of them. If you can find a Mikuni HSR 42, do it! I'm not cell versed in other Sportster cams, but I'm partial to Sifton, whose cams are now being sold by Night Rider.
 
Thanks for the tips. 4-7000k rpm shifts would probably cure my first gear skipping problem and also answer the question of how much life the 50k mile belt has left on it. If I get the suspension and brakes sorted I can start working on the power side of the equation.
 
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