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help installing galfer lines (san jose area)?

gnahc79

gnahc79

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Joined
Apr 16, 2003
Location
SJ
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Several peeps have offered to help me install Galfer lines on my F4i, but they're located in SF. If a brake line-guru in the San Jose area could help me out that would be great. I don't have a mityvac or torque wrench, but I am willing to spring for food & beer if desired :).

btw I found out that you can't use speedbleeders on a dry line. A rep from speedbleeder.com recommended using the OEM bleeder to fill 90% of the line and then swap the speedbleeder back in.
 
The air in the line will "compress/uncompress" and you may not get the suction to fill with fluid. Take a ride to SF those guys are offering and have a garage to do it in w/tools. ;)
 
anyone? The super friendly SF peeps won't be available until next weekend and I'm an impatient bastid :D.
 
Nice!! You're gonna' love those lines. I did mine by myself, at Bill's tech day back in July. Of course he and some others walked me though it. Wasn't too difficult at all. Dude, go w/ the Galfer HH brake pads as well. Or at least the Green series. I had their regular street pads, and they went to shit after a month or two. Brakes got all squishy and crap. I switched to the HH's about two months ago, and they're awesome!!
 
I just did mine about a month ago. I figured while its raining might as well. Did it after work for a couple of hours. took me three evenings to do the rear, both fronts and the clutch. Replaced with Galfer SS hose, cleaned and drained the whole system. Replaced the pads with Galfer HH pads front and rear as well. I bought a mighty-vac, $39.00, and definitly recommend it. I couldn't imagine how long it would have taken to do this job the manual way...Best advice for d.i.y is to take your time and invest in a mighty vac.
 
Id be able to give ya a hand on Saturday after 2pm .... let me know
 
ambitiousone

The best way IMHO is to use a tube and a soda bottle, run it to the bottom so it is always immersed in fluid.
Pump lever, hold, open bleeder screw, close bleeder when lever bottoms out, repeat until you get fluid to cover end of hose. Then you can just crack the bleeder 1/4 turn and pump away until all air is pushed out. Zip tie lever halfway down and let sit overnight. Done.

I never use a mityvac, mostly due to a bad experience with a VW bug, it can suck air through the threads of the bleeder screw. The brake fluid killed the seals inside my last one and I decided to never use it on brakes again.
 
If you need a hand putting on the brake lines, feel free to give me a call at the store: 408-288-5051.

Scotty
 
I took Uriah's advice on this and bought Galfer braided lines and EBC HH brake pads.

The stopping power is INSANE!!! I don't recommend it for newbies but if you've got a few thousand miles under your belt and know how to modulate your brakes, I highly recommend it. Best bang for the buck I ever bought for my F4i.
 
awesome :thumbup. I take it you didn't encounter any install/squish problems like me? I FINALLY figured out my sqoosh problem: crap/loose thread sealant in the bleeder screws. A quick cleaning of both the screw and threaded area on the calipers with a toothpick did the trick :).
 
gnahc79 said:
awesome :thumbup. I take it you didn't encounter any install/squish problems like me?
Click to expand...

None, but I had an expert install my lines and pads (280SQUAGGLER).

I could do a stoppie with only my pinky finger (not that I would).:laughing
 
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