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How do you know when to change your battery???

Most bikes will have their lights get slightly brighter when the revs go up from idle. Normal. Same with lights dimming when starting. The starter puts a HUGE load on the battery and drops the voltage pretty significantly. Thus other lights and things will dim noticeably. Normal also. It it's starting and running fine you're probably OK.
 
Jlee808 said:
Like the title say. I went on vacation for 2 weeks and my bike was just sitting. Just wondering if that'll drain out my battery? Bike still start every time, although the lights to dim when I start it but then it all good. So...how do I know when to change my battery? Just don't wanna get stuck somewhere.
How's the battery tenders??? and what's the difference between 6V and 12V tenders? Which one should I get? Thanks Guys
Click to expand...

When you have to start your bike by rolling it down a hill, it's time to get a new battery.
 
ST Guy said:
12.6 is the absolute minimum for a health battery. Brand new, you'll see 12.8
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Open circuit voltage depends on temperature. Load test is really the only way to gauge a battery's health. It measures the internal impedance under load.
 
Jlee808 said:
I think my light does what you describe. It gets a lil brighter when I twist the throttle to higher rpm.:/ Charging problem?.
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That proves the charging system is working. The alternator forces the battery voltage up to 14V at higher RPM, the battery voltage will drop towards 12V at idle.
 
Usually it goes something like this: I wake up in the middle of the night and find my
battery dressed, packed, and ready to go out the door.

"What gives?"
"I need a change, and don't try to stop me, the keys are on the fridge with a note."

I check to be sure the keys are actually there and read the note:
"I have to go. It's not you, it's me. I just can't stay in a relationship when I'm not in charge.
--Good-bye, *****
 
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bountyhunter said:
Open circuit voltage depends on temperature. Load test is really the only way to gauge a battery's health. It measures the internal impedance under load.
Click to expand...

Very true. A battery could show 12.6 volts on a volt meter but not have enough "oomph" to light a tail light bulb. A load test is the final test. But a voltage test is easier to do and if it doens't pass the voltage test, then there's no point on going to the load test.
 
supertireguy said:
Anytime you are experiencing battery issues it's important to check the health of your bike charging system.

Put a multi-meter on the battery terminals when the bike is running at low-mid rpms. Voltage readings close to 14.4v DC is the sign of a healthy charging system. Under or overcharging conditions will damage the battery.

If your charging system is faulty you can buy/install a new battery every week and still not solve the core issue. Faulty charging system issues might visually present as lights growing brighter/dimmer with engine rpms.

If/when you do buy a new battery MAKE SURE it gets a 8 hour charge on a battery charger before first use. Putting a new battery in your bike and going for a 30 minute ride is not how you charge a new battery.

Lots of BARF threads on battery/charging issues/solutions. The search function is your friend.
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okay, here's my situation:
I went on a ride yesterday, and everything was fine and went to my brother in law house to watch the game. When I was leaving, my bike won't start. I mean when I turn the key there's no light on the gauge, not even the green neutral light. So, I guess I need to get a new battery. But at the same time, I really wonder why the bike run fine the whole day and starts right up after we stop for gas and breaks. I was lucky I guess. But is there a problem with my charging system? The battery is about 2.5 years old.
 
FlipRider said:
But at the same time, I really wonder why the bike run fine the whole day and starts right up after we stop for gas and breaks. I was lucky I guess. But is there a problem with my charging system? The battery is about 2.5 years old.
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-Originally Posted by supertireguy View Post
Anytime you are experiencing battery issues it's important to check the health of your bike charging system.

*Please* Put a multi-meter on the battery terminals when the bike is running at low-mid rpms. Voltage readings close to 14.4v DC is the sign of a healthy charging system. Under or overcharging conditions will damage the battery.

Results from this simple test can help us help you figure out what if anything is wrong.
 
supertireguy said:
-Originally Posted by supertireguy View Post
Anytime you are experiencing battery issues it's important to check the health of your bike charging system.

*Please* Put a multi-meter on the battery terminals when the bike is running at low-mid rpms. Voltage readings close to 14.4v DC is the sign of a healthy charging system. Under or overcharging conditions will damage the battery.

Results from this simple test can help us help you figure out what if anything is wrong.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll make sure I do that when I get off work today. By the way did I mentioned the battery won't hold charge. My brother in law, hook it up to a charger last night and won't hold nothing at all.
I guess, I'll get a battery first and then test the charging system.

thanks again
 
Test the charging system IMMEDIATELY after installing the new battery. 'Could be your charging system is the cause of the battery's early demise.
 
ST Guy said:
Test the charging system IMMEDIATELY after installing the new battery. 'Could be your charging system is the cause of the battery's early demise.
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ok, I just got back from Road rider and boutght me a new battery. Can I get one of those multi-meter tester in local kragen or autozone store? or I have to get this also at Road rider.

In worse case scenario, if my charging system is bad. How will I going to fix it, what needs to be replace. etc.....

Thanks is advance.
 
Make sure your new battery is/was charged for 8 hours prior to first use.

Installing it in the bike and riding for 30 minutes is the wrong way to charge a new battery and reduces battery service life.

Multi-meters can be had at auto parts stores or Radio Shack.

Waiting to restart the guessing game until after we have some voltage readings.
 
bike won't start at all

So I got a new battery from Road Rider and charged it for 8 hours. I install it and when I turn the key on, it has lights on the gauge, even the bright green neutral light.
But when I tried to start it, the bike won't start, the engine won't even turn. It reminds me of my car needed a new starter. I mean, when I press the start button, it's doing nothing, but there's power because I installed the new charged battery.
Now I am stuck here in Fremont with my bike not starting, the only I could think of is that it needs a new starter.
Please kind barfers, could this be starter problem? or something else is wrong on the electrical system?
Please help.
I would really appreciate it.
 
your bike is broken. give it to me and i'll dispose of it for you :twofinger
 
starter relay...check to see if you can hear a click when you hit the starter button...the starter relay will click when you hit the button closing the contact points...
 
mdkcrf250r said:
starter relay...check to see if you can hear a click when you hit the starter button...the starter relay will click when you hit the button closing the contact points...
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I hear nothing at all when I hit the starter button. And I made sure the kill switch is not on.
Starter issues? starter relay issues? I don't freakin know, I need to drink some Red Horse beer first, then maybe I'll figure it out.
 
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