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Impact Sockets- Sizes Needed, Brands?

Dubbington

Slamdunk Champion
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Location
East Yay
Moto(s)
EX Street Triple ;(
Name
Dubs
I just helped my bro in law replace the front air strut on his money pit 2011 Benz gl450. It needed several metric, I think one was a 25mm. I do most work at my parents as my dad has a nice ingersol rand compressor, Jack and space.

That said, his socket collection was killing me. Lots of 12 point and no 25mm among others. I used that set to rebuild my ‘69 Stang without issues but everything is metric now.

I have a nice set but not for impact.

Is harborfreights impact set good? They have a lifetime warranty. I’d love to get 8mm-30mm (roughly) and equalivent in SAE. Not sure if duplicate in deep set is needed but sure is useful.

Home Depot has this for sale that looks pretty good. Could add as I go.

https://slickdeals.net/share/iphone_app/fp/747484
 
just get harbor friend 6 point and call it a day. IIRC they're a little shorter than some other brands tho so just make sure you're okay with the length.

also, if you're getting 3/8th drive impact sockets you don't need impact sockets.
 
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also, if you're getting 3/8th drive impact sockets you don't need impact sockets.

Yes and no. If we’re talking about the tools that reside in the typical Harvey Homeowner’s dusty toolbox in the corner of the garage (or closet), then yeah you don’t need them. If we’re talking a professional that is blasting that 18mm socket with a 350ft lbs impact gun on the regular? Then that thinner walled chrome socket will be cracking several times a year and needing replacement. Shade tree mechanic that lies somewhere between the ends of the spectrum? Just get the impact set. The chances you run into a situation where you need the smaller size of a chrome socket to fit in a hole will be very low.

I use Snap-On semi deep 3/8 impact sockets for probably 80% of my 3/8 ratchet use. I split the difference and didn’t buy shallow and deep sets. Semi deep isn’t typically made in those budget brands, but if you can find a semi deep set that’s what I’d get if I just had one 3/8 set at home.
 
HF's large impact sets are awesome, legit bargain. They start big though, over an inch.
 
The HF sets are fine for how frequently they'll probably get used. Also, using an impact on fasteners smaller than like 13mm makes me uncomfortable :laughing

Fwiw there's no 25mm on anything German I've ever worked on. That lower strut bolt is 24.
 
Yes and no. If we’re talking about the tools that reside in the typical Harvey Homeowner’s dusty toolbox in the corner of the garage (or closet), then yeah you don’t need them. If we’re talking a professional that is blasting that 18mm socket with a 350ft lbs impact gun on the regular? Then that thinner walled chrome socket will be cracking several times a year and needing replacement. Shade tree mechanic that lies somewhere between the ends of the spectrum? Just get the impact set. The chances you run into a situation where you need the smaller size of a chrome socket to fit in a hole will be very low.

I use Snap-On semi deep 3/8 impact sockets for probably 80% of my 3/8 ratchet use. I split the difference and didn’t buy shallow and deep sets. Semi deep isn’t typically made in those budget brands, but if you can find a semi deep set that’s what I’d get if I just had one 3/8 set at home.

It was half way a joke. I don't like impacts because it doesn't take long to not know what size socket you're picking up. There are probably nicer ones where the markings don't come off, I just haven't come across them. I actually use a 3/8" impact set too for my standard ratcheting. Don't remember if they were on sale or if I couldn't find a chrome set in 6 point like I wanted.

As far as mid length, that' actually what i'd call the HF set but they're sold as deep. If i remember tomorrow i'll snap a picture or take a measurement.
 
Someone once told me that I should get a good tool kit, because you never know what you'll need and at least you'll probably have it when you need it.
Sears was around back then. Craftsman tool sets were always on sale. You get over 100 different bits, sockets, extensions, etc. I got a set for the trunk of the car. A set of tools to keep in the garage. Et cetera.

My Dad told me tool sets and kits were a waste of money. You buy a bunch of stuff that you are not using, may never use, and you'll probably lose pieces. And the worst part is, the piece that got lost is going to be the one that you need. Dad gave me knowledge based on his lifetime of mistakes. I didn't listen. I had to make those mistakes on my own.

To this day, I still have kits with missing pieces, and I don't use the pieces that didn't get lost.

Dad said to buy the tools as you need them, then slowly acquire only tools that you use. Dad also said to buy 6 point sockets for 6 point nuts and bolts.

Now as I look at my 629,000 piece Craftsman "mechanic's" tool set - to realize that most of the sockets were in sizes I never needed or used. And for every size I never used, I had it in a 12 point socket, a 12 point deep socket, or a 12 point wrench.

I learned that most torx sets do not come with T27. Odd. Since I use T27 to work on Fords and Harleys. Harleys, Dodge, and other European brands use Oetiker clamps and a special tool from Germany. Harley Davidson, and other fine Japanese imports, use Japanese Industrial Standard screws. I've also had to buy 6 point spark plug sockets with magnets & rubber boots, with different types of swivels and extensions - because the "mechanics toolset" only had thin wall, deep sockets without magnets & rubber boots. Don't even mention all of the other dozens of tools that didn't come in the kit, that I had to buy.



Harbor Freight is okay. Some things are better than others. I did manage to break a socket once. I brought it back. They gave me a new one. Good warranty. But I would rather have a good tool that didn't break. I buy Harbor Freight tools for things that I know I won't use often. The $10 angle grinder for the 3 times in 10 years that I might grind or cut-off metal. The $20 oscillating tool for the 1 time in 10 years where I will use it for cutting MDF. Look through their open stock pliers and you'll find things like long nose pliers, hose clamp pliers, angled pliers with long handles - all of those things for a special purpose job you'll only do once every 5 years. A few guys I know bought motorcycle lifts from Harbor Freight. Home use. Not shop use. Everything there will work. Some things are better than others. Just remember that you are buying cheap tools, so don't expect the best tool in the world for those prices.



1 hand tool that I do like, and suggest that you own, is an extendable ratchet. For a homeowner doing small jobs, you can extend the handle for a little added reach, and/or leverage for breaking torque. I love being able to have the handle short for feel and control, then sliding it out for that final tightening.

71QSDTV0VkL._AC_SX679_.jpg


Air tools are great. Every shop has shop air, and the technicians have great air tools. The homeowner is lucky to have an air compressor. A very small air compressor, which takes forever to fill up the air tank, and the tank runs out of air faster than it takes to fill the tank. At home, I have found a couple of electric tools that I really like. An electric hammer. Yes, there is such a thing. And an electric ratchet. Saves your wrist from carpal tunnel.


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Is harborfreights impact set good?

I have a few. I have only used them a few times, in 10 years, for lugnuts.

I don't rotate tires at home anymore. Tire shops offer free lifetime rotation.

If you are a homeowner, planning to do some occasional wrenching to maintain your own vehicles, Harbor Freight impact sockets should be fine. You will use the sockets once every 12 months. If you are planning to make a career out of it, then you may want to buy Matco, Snap On, or some other very expensive professional grade tool. You will use the sockets 12 times a day.
 
Actually now that I'm thinking about it I think my bitch with the hf sockets is that they don't machine the hex the full length of the socket. Now I don't remember, check in a few.
 
Okay took a look. They're the same length and machined the same as my other brand impacts : laughing. The machined half way is true though, but looks to be the case for every brand. I probably had an issue with that when trying to use my 3/8 drive set for some hand ratcheting. Don't remember now, but food for thought if using them for double duty.
 
As a professional, I run into situations where impact sockets are too big to fit somewhere. The extra socket wall thickness sometimes interferes. Most common place someone might run into this is lug nuts. I’ve seen that many of the cheaper impact offerings are super duper thick. Something to keep in mind, but like I said the chances of running into a clearance issue are pretty slim.

Here’s a picture of the difference between expensive impact versus expensive chrome in 24mm. Outside diameter of the impact is 35mm and 32mm for the chrome. The impact has rounded corners because that’s Snap-On’s “flank drive” design. The chrome is Matco if anyone was curious.
 

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These days even the little baby 12v cordless impacts have enough power to do lug nuts twice over, and that's probably going to be one of the highest torques of anything you're doing.

Off the top of my head I'd say look up the sizes for ball joints, control arms, struts, etc suspension components; brake calipers; wheel studs / lug nuts; and maybe bumper mounts / tow hook mounts. I'd probably just use a non-powered ratchet / non-impact socket for anything below that, and for personal vehicle / motorcycle stuff 1/4" drive is going to suffice for 90% of it (even if 3/8" tends to be the go-to).

That being said, I also believe in overkill and having everything you could possibly need just because tools last for decades. So if I see something on sale that I could see a potential use for down the road, I'm not necessarily against buying it. With that in mind:

1/4" drive sockets should go from about 5/8" max down to < 1/8" plus have all your torx and hex heads, they're great for that.

3/8" sockets should range from probably 1/4" to 1", anything over that is likely to be a one-off and not require a full set so just buy as applicable to your vehicles or whatever. Deepwells, though not necessarily impacts.

1/2" sockets can go from 3/8" up to 1"+, and where I have most of my impact sets.

Just my $0.02 and Rob probably knows better but I don't really see a whole lot of need for impacts, 99% of the time you're not torquing things hard enough to need them / it's going to be at an awkward angle where you can't get an impact driver on it to begin with. That being said I'd tend to agree that anywhere you can put a socket, you can usually fit an impact, so if you're just buying one set, you might as well get the impact versions of whatever you're looking at.
 
Just my $0.02 and Rob probably knows better but I don't really see a whole lot of need for impacts, 99% of the time you're not torquing things hard enough to need them / it's going to be at an awkward angle where you can't get an impact driver on it to begin with.

If you went to Porsche training and asked where’s an impact gun, they’d throw you right the hell out of there. They want hand tools for everything.

That said, I’ll use that shit on just about everything I can to take stuff off, even spark plugs. Going back on with torque specs/angle, ok it’s by hand. My IR electric impact guns have “hand tight” and “wrench tight” settings that will just run a fastener down to maybe 15ft lbs or so, then you go in after with a torque wrench. That setup is the absolute best for lug nuts.
 
Husky (HD) actually makes thin wall impacts. At least in 3/8. I know cuz those are the ones I have. Hex isnt even machined down an inch on their derp stuff tho so kinda annoying. They are as thin as my chrome stuff though.
 
And the Golden Rule of Tools- get three of anything 10mm.

How are y’all’s 10mm socket game? I decided to see just how many different ones I have in 1/4 drive.

There’s two chrome shallows because of frigging course I lost one, bought a new one, then found the old one a week later. The black ones are magnetic. And the deep one is a spring loaded magnetic…especially proud of that one. Well, Snap-On certainly is proud of it at least.
 

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I decided to see just how many different ones I have in 1/4 drive.

There’s two chrome shallows ... The black ones are magnetic. And the deep one is a spring loaded magnetic…especially proud of that one.

Nice, looks like fun! haha :laughing

I literally purchased a standalone short 10mm 1/4" the other day....

yep and while purchasing it I was thinking of BARF and "do you always lose the 10mm sockets"... :laughing
 
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If you went to Porsche training and asked where’s an impact gun, they’d throw you right the hell out of there. They want hand tools for everything.

That said, I’ll use that shit on just about everything I can to take stuff off, even spark plugs. Going back on with torque specs/angle, ok it’s by hand. My IR electric impact guns have “hand tight” and “wrench tight” settings that will just run a fastener down to maybe 15ft lbs or so, then you go in after with a torque wrench. That setup is the absolute best for lug nuts.

Yeah. Most people either don't have the fine touch to not just blast it down all the way, or don't care to bother. Getting it 9/10 of the way automatically is a neat setting. I usually just use the lowest setting I can and then snug it down the rest of the way by hand. Works fine even on Ikea furniture. Let alone lug nuts.
 
How are y’all’s 10mm socket game? I decided to see just how many different ones I have in 1/4 drive.

There’s two chrome shallows because of frigging course I lost one, bought a new one, then found the old one a week later. The black ones are magnetic. And the deep one is a spring loaded magnetic…especially proud of that one. Well, Snap-On certainly is proud of it at least.

That's how lost anything are found- just buy a new one and it will show up fairly soon.
 
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