• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

It is done!!!

DIY

New member
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Location
Sacramento
Moto(s)
Tuono, ST1100, 400 Bandit (still broken)
I started a thread several weeks ago regarding aftermarket master cylinders. I got, what I thought was,some really good advice and decided to go ahead with a Brembo RCS, new reservoir and perch, new lines and seals, fresh Motul RBF 600 brake fluid, and new bleeder screws. I had to trim away some of the windshield for clearance but it is a small price to pay. I need to trim that area a little more so it looks a little less homemade.

All in all I am very, very pleased with the results. For me, this was money very well spent and I would not be surprised if a Brembo RCS clutch master cylinder shows up in the mail before too long. So, for those that posted advice or PMed me, thanks for all of the insight and advice. The only thing I don't like about the m/c is that the lever travel before the pads bite seems excessively long. I would prefer less travel but it doesn't look adjustable. It does look pretty cool though.

 
You casn't adjust the brake lever? I guess that is not an adjustable screw on the inside behind the lever handle?:(
 
Oh, I see. The adjuster you pointed out does adjust the distance from the lever to the bar. It's great. What I mean is, the distance the lever has to travel to engage the brakes. It is more than I would like.
 
Have you tried switching the ratio to the 20?
 
Have you tried switching the ratio to the 20?

^^this?

To OP... the relationship between pivot point vs bore/stroke makes all the difference in where the engagement hits and how hard the action to actuate. On these adjustable masters the stroke is what you get the option to change and I always forget longer/shorter which hits sooner so try the 20 option. The twist knob is merely lever distance (aka throw) for your comfort.

The thing you can't alter is bore. One thing I will say is beware of getting the bigger bore on clutch. I got the bigger bore on my Brembo billet GP clutch master thinking I might get more authority. Well I did and my clutch engagement and feel is best of any bike I have ever ridden. The bad news is in long traffic you need the forearms of Popeye to keep up with it :)

I have small bore Brembo billet GP master for front brakes but would love to hear some feedback about these new adjustable units.
 
Last edited:
might need more bleeding?

That would be my guess. Every brembo unit I had didn't have much travel to where it started working.

I've always found that when the brakes aren't "starting" to move quickly enough that there is air in the lines. I mean the ratio and piston size and all that stuff matters for how much braking you get for how much force you use, but if it's moving to far towards the handlebars before anything happens, I would think air in the lines.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top