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Let's Go KATOOM

GreenHornet

GreenHornet

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2006
Location
Sac Town
Moto(s)
2019 r 1250 gs, 2002 998, 99 R6 Track Bike, 99 Yz 250, 2001 540 Exc, 2018 Benelli tnt 135
Figured I'd start a thread. Not sure where this will go. I'm open to suggestions / constructive criticism.
I wanted a bike to ride on the Barf Baja 2016 adventure and I wanted a Supermoto.
Brilliant idea: buy a dual sport and convert it :).
My dream would have been a new 690 Enduro R or maybe the Beta 500rs or the new 500Exc. But alas, can't justify the cost for a toy.
I boiled my choices down to XR600r or an RFS. After much reading and inner debate I decided frequent oil changes and valve checks weren't a deal breaker.
So I got this:
 

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The Bad:
This model is prone to some failures: cam bearings, soft intake valves, auto decomp stop bolt shearing off, to name the major ones.
There weren't "reciepts for everything".

On the test ride had some intermittent high idle but i only noticed it when the handle bars were turned so I thought maybe the cables were poorly routed or something.

Started fine when I checked it out but engine was warm.
Before I bought it wanted to see it cold start and seller had hard time starting it with the E start but started on first kick, no smoke.

I started it a few times in my garage and noticed some oil on the garage floor I checked for oil leaks when I purchased it but didn't see any :(. It was cleaned up nicely. Upon further inspection and sleuthing I think it is leaking from a "vent" in the head that is supposed to insure that no oil gets into the cooling system and vice versa. If it leaks either coolant or oil there is a bad seal in the water pump housing or shaft or whatever and there seems to be a small leak from the right engine cover.

The other weekend I took it to Prairie City and the intermittent high idle or surging was bothersome and intermittent. Sometimes the idle would go back down if I blipped the throttle.

The Good:
3rd gear power wheelies (14T-52T) I'll probably go with something more highway speed friendly.
New intake valves, rings, piston, lots of bearings, cam chain, cam bearings, trail tech 100W stator.
Have work order for top end.
CA plated.
 
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GreenHornet said:
The Bad:
This model is prone to some failures: cam bearings, soft intake valves, auto decomp stop bolt shearing off, to name the major ones.
There weren't "reciepts for everything".

On the test ride had some intermittent high idle but i only noticed it when the handle bars were turned so I thought maybe the cables were poorly routed or something.

Started fine when I checked it out but engine was warm.
Before I bought it wanted to see it cold start and seller had hard time starting it with the E start but started on first kick, no smoke.

I started it a few times in my garage and noticed some oil on the garage floor I checked for oil leaks when I purchased it but didn't see any :(. It was cleaned up nicely. Upon further inspection and sleuthing I think it is leaking from a "vent" in the head that is supposed to insure that no oil gets into the cooling system and vice versa. If it leaks either coolant or oil there is a bad seal in the water pump housing or shaft or whatever and there seems to be a small leak from the right engine cover.

The other weekend I took it to Prairie City and the intermittent high idle or surging was bothersome and intermittent. Sometimes the idle would go back down if I blipped the throttle.

The Good:
3rd gear power wheelies (14T-52T) I'll probably go with something more highway speed friendly.
New intake valves, rings, piston, lots of bearings, cam chain, cam bearings, trail tech 100W stator.
Have work order for top end.
CA plated.
Click to expand...
I rode one of those in the desert near Vegas a while back. Loved it! On my second KTM since. The hard starting and probably surging idle are likely jetting issues (of which I had plenty with my 620).

Awesome bike, but if you are cost conscious forget about 17's.
 
Sharky said:
Awesome bike, but if you are cost conscious forget about 17's.
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Hehe supermoto is later first is ADV setup for Baja :)
But if you or anyone knows an awesome conversion kit please speak up.
Prob looking for cush drive 17's bigger rotor and new master cylinder (would still like to switch back to enduro setup with relative ease) also maybe go tubless.
 
Problem 1: Difficult cold start.
Symptopms:
Engine hard to turn over on E start. Won't turn over without using decompression lever.

Occasional backfire when trying to start either E or kick.

Difficult to kick start cold.

Some popping when cold.

Can't use choke due to oversize gas tank impeding extension.

Potential Causes:
Battery too weak.
Starter needs replace / rebuild (sucking too many amps).
Valves need adjustment.
Auto Decompressor needs replacement.
Carb issues (dirty, clogged jets, bad jetting, bad initial settings).

Solution A:
New Battery with 2X the CCA.

Results:
At least it will start cold with E start but all other problems persist.

Solution B:
Adjust valves.

Ktm pdf Engine manual calls for gap of .12mm or .047in.
Haynes manual says .10 to .15mm.

All valves were too tight smallest feeler gauge I have is .127mm or .050in couldn't insert it into any of the tappet to valve surfaces.

Adjusted all valves to .127mm

Results:
Everything much improved less popping no backfiring but still a bit of compression lock. Was able to use choke by loosening tank. Battery wasn't fully charged will recheck with full charge choke E start.
 

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The hard cold start, surging idle, and popping on deceleration would lead me to believe there is a lean condition.

If this were a new to me bike, I would start with a full tune up.

Check and adjust valves. New plug, oil, clean air filter. Pull carb. Clean, inspect all vent/vacuum lines. Ensure float correctly set. Pull clean, and note which jets you have in it. Adjust fuel screw. If problem persists, try richer pilot.
 
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Lean also makes sense since the bike is from GV. Normally, I'd say go up one size on the pilot and main and raise the needle one position when going from ~5k' to the valley, but if it was lean on the test ride in GV, you may need to go up two sizes.

Tight valves is a bad sign, but are you sure you're not off a decimal? Regardless, get a gauge that goes down to .001 and check again.
 
My KTM (LC8) has intermittant idle issues, seem to be related to ambient air temps, when it is cool, idles higher, when it is hot outside, lower. Not enough to bother with. I removed the Throttle Position sensor when I rejetted and just put it back where it looked like it was in the adjustment, that might have something to do with it.
 
^^^Damn good deal. Jump on it.
 
Put JD jet kit in it. When I worked for KTM the brand new bikes would barely run on stock jetting. Cold they were HORRIBLE!
 
Oh wow. I didn't realize there was all this activity on this thread. Haven't seen any emails.
Thanks everyone. Auntebling, not quite ready for SM stuff yet cuz need to focus on Baja. Thanks AugustIron, and OaklandF4i, and everyone else. I've been reading the DJ cycles article. There's also an accelerator pump 101 and Carb 101 by the same guy on KtmTalk.
 
Look for 2004 and up. 2007 is the best year, 2006 is very similar but different clutch cover. 2006+ handles way better(frame is different from previous years.)
This bike should be 2300-2500 at most.
 
Haha a bit late for that. No turning back now. Also when I was looking, plated 530excs were closer to 5 or 6k even 525s were over 4
 
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artyom666 said:
Look for 2004 and up. 2007 is the best year, 2006 is very similar but different clutch cover. 2006+ handles way better(frame is different from previous years.)
This bike should be 2300-2500 at most.
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Not sure where you a finding KTMs for 2300-2500 of this vintage.
A smoking deal on a 640 duke is in the $2500 range.
 
Sharky said:
Not sure where you a finding KTMs for 2300-2500 of this vintage.
A smoking deal on a 640 duke is in the $2500 range.
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I guess right now you right. Just few month ago were plenty. In any case 640 duke is completely different animal. I used to have 640 adv.
 
artyom666 said:
I guess right now you right. Just few month ago were plenty. In any case 640 duke is completely different animal. I used to have 640 adv.
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Seems just about and plated dual sport is $2500 and add some for motardedness. Then add to the fact it has KTM on it.
Not sure I run an RFS motored one on the street that much.
 
Sharky said:
Not sure I run an RFS motored one on the street that much.
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Meh as long as you keep up with the oil changes and valve adjustments should do fine. There's tons of discussion about it on ADV Rider.Might put an oil cooler on it too. It's going to be more of a toy than a daily driver.
 
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