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Motorcycle Auctions - Experience?

Sharky

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2002
Location
Walnut Creek
Moto(s)
GSX-R 1000; CR 250 x 2; Duke II; XR650L; YSR 50;
I have started checking out some auction sites for local insurance write off bikes. Ideally, I'd like to find a salvage enduro to fix up and ride on the cheap. I am unconcerned about the rebuilding process from a techinical standpoint. More interested in comments from anyone who has already gone this route. I already know the hoops you have to go through to register a totaled bike (I have done it a few times before).

The auction sites I have found have membership fees/other associated fees.

There are yards locally, so I would check out the bikes I am interested in bidding on.

Anyone?
 
Thats how I got my current race bike. its a hit or miss process and there are risks, as I'm sure you know. I did not view my bike first, being down in LA, so I took a huge risk but it turned out OK.

The fees add up quick! be sure you understand all the fees.
 
I was a manager at the Copart in Martinez for 3 years. They are the biggest salvage auction in the area (followed closely by Sac).

I can probably help you with anything you need to know but I am a bit busy right now. PM me or I'll check back on this thread later to help ya out.
 
I've been to one county auction that had motorcycles and ATVs included in their auctions (there aren't many in the area). I believe it was partnered with ATF for repossessions.

Surprisingly, the bikes were in good condition and the paperwork seemed a lot less exhausting than I thought but at the same, all the bikes were won at the equivalent of blue book. I was shocked and sadly walked away empty-handed.
 
I was a manager at the Copart in Martinez for 3 years. They are the biggest salvage auction in the area (followed closely by Sac).

I can probably help you with anything you need to know but I am a bit busy right now. PM me or I'll check back on this thread later to help ya out.

Thanks!
That's one of the lots I was looking at.
 
all the bikes were won at the equivalent of blue book. I was shocked and sadly walked away empty-handed.

This.

I was going for awhile up and down the coast to auctions. Most were a waste of time as bidders would get all caught up in out-bidding someone else, even paying more than you would buy off Craigslist.

I have since given it up except to occasionally go to look at Heavy machinery.
 
I think these places are full of shill bidders. I've seen salvaged turd wagons go for over high blue book at auto/moto/equipment auctions. I've been to a few of these, and I've only seen a few decent deals on non-automotive or moto stuff. Zero good deals on cars and bikes, ever.

Maybe get a dealer's license and go to a wholesale auction? Public auctions are a joke.
 
I have bought several bikes this way.
You spend a lot of time looking for the right bike at a descent price.
If you don't have to have the bike by a certain time you can do it.
I did much better when the other bidders were professionals, they were less likely to over bid because they needed to turn a profit.
I've also noticed that in the last few years all the add on costs that the auction house adds make it more expensive.
You might do better to look for a beat up bike on ebay and craiglist.
Make friends with a body shop and see if they can find you a bike, don't forget to tip them for helping you.
 
I went one time to an auction in Antioch, about 12yrs ago, with the thought of maybe buying a Busa. So I sat around watcing all the other crap being sold first. Then they roll out the busa and it starts at around $11K. and you would then have to add like 20% a auction fee.
I could have bought cheaper anyday of the week on craigslist.

They also have a beat on and rattle can painted R1 that they started at around $7500. At that point I realized I never needed to go to another auction.
 
OK, here is what I learned about the business while working as a manager at one of the largest salvage auction sites (an the largest salvage auction company) in the country.


First, the auction companies make their money off of the buyers and NOT the sellers. This means you will pay A LOT in fees so make sure you know exactly what will be charged before you go bidding. This also means, should there ever be an issue, the auction company will side with the seller EVERY time. They would much rather lose your business than piss off someone that brings them lots of vehicles.

Sooo, the best piece of advice I can give is KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BIDDING ON. We ran a pretty straightforward business at my yard: all bidding is final and you are expected to know (or at the very least, accept) what you are bidding on. This means if you overlook a tweaked frame, bent forks etc or even just click on the wrong button, you are stuck with whatever you end up with. If you know what you are looking for and how to look for it, you will be much better off. YOU ARE NOT GETTING A BRAND SPANKING NEW VEHICLE. It sounds stupid, but the biggest problems we always had were people bidding on a car off of one picture only to realize it was creamed on the other side. Make sure you are comfortable with your ability to adequately diagnose and repair any damage you can find. You will usually not end up getting a good enough deal to justify having a shop fix it at their standard rates (that's why it was totalled in the first place...).

Know what kind of title you will get. If it is a salvage CERTIFICATION, you will have to repair the bike and have it inspected by CHP and retitled before it will be street legal. If it is already a clean title but you don't have a dealer license or go through someone who does, you will most likely end up with a salvage certificate or Acquisition as the DMV laws for most auction sites are pretty ridiculous so the companies convert them to cover their ass.

Furthermore, if the title is clean, you must ask yourself why it ended up there in the first place. A lot of the salvage places sell cars for donation companies as well. When do people donate their car/bike? When it is broken and beyond repair usually... They also sell for dealers. When does a dealer bring their car to an auction that will yield 25% of what they could get on a lot? When it is so big of a POS that they can't sell it to anyone in person. The list goes on but the moral is: BE VERY WARY OF CLEAN TITLED VEHICLES AT SALVAGE AUCTIONS. This is not to say you can't find a good deal, but I personally wouldn't bid on one without having inspected it in person.

If you do go in to the sites to inspect the vehicles--and I would highly recommend it--ask around while you are there to get a feel for the place. Many of the employees are amazing people who are being over worked so they come off grouchy. Get a few of them talking when they have a minute, however, and they will usually tell you all you need to know to avoid getting too screwed.

Hopefully this helps you a bit. Sorry if it is hard to read but it was my third beer that reminded me to post in here tonight. If you have any other questions about the process or specific locations, feel free to ask.

Happy Friday everyone!
 
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Excellent post, well written & full of good info. :thumbup

BlueScholar for MOD!!! :party :thumbup
 
Great info.
In in no hurry to get something, so ill probably put the Martinez and Vallejo yards in my normal searches. That way, its close enough to personally inspect anything that come up and I can do the math to see what my bottom line is including associated fees.
Probably just wait until the right deal comes along on CL. Hell, if you are willing to wait, there is always a smoking deal around the corner.
 
Great info.
In in no hurry to get something, so ill probably put the Martinez and Vallejo yards in my normal searches. That way, its close enough to personally inspect anything that come up and I can do the math to see what my bottom line is including associated fees.
Probably just wait until the right deal comes along on CL. Hell, if you are willing to wait, there is always a smoking deal around the corner.

Yep, look at CL real good. That is why i stopped buying from Copart/IAA. Don't know how it is now but a few years ago after all the fees and the cost to repair the bike, I could have just bought a Clean Title one on CL.
 
I tried to get a 2nd grom from copart. The salvaged one that i saw and wanted to bid on ended 3k+ almost 90% of the price of a brand new one
 
Great info.
In in no hurry to get something, so ill probably put the Martinez and Vallejo yards in my normal searches. That way, its close enough to personally inspect anything that come up and I can do the math to see what my bottom line is including associated fees.
Probably just wait until the right deal comes along on CL. Hell, if you are willing to wait, there is always a smoking deal around the corner.

Martinez has WAY more selection but also has WAY more people looking (i.e. driving up the price). A decent way to get a good deal at either is wait till the Monday night sales cus no one cares to look at those. If you do think you will buy a bike there eventually, you better start looking in to what you need to open an account (unless you know someone who has one). It seemed like every day more and more licensing was needed to actually be able to bid thanks to CA's wonderful regulations and Copart's inability to decipher them. Last I knew, you needed a Business license AND dealer/wholesaler/importer/exporter license. If not, you have to go through a bidder that has the proper licensing. Otherwise, they will stamp your salvage cert with a lovely "for export only" stamp. At which point, you are effed and the manager himself will tell you to go pound sand.

That may have changed in the last few years but I would call up and talk to someone to make sure before you get too far in to the process.

Yep, look at CL real good. That is why i stopped buying from Copart/IAA. Don't know how it is now but a few years ago after all the fees and the cost to repair the bike, I could have just bought a Clean Title one on CL.

Yea the fees are no joke. There are good deals to be had but you'll probably end up spending way too much time sifting through the almost good deals to make it worth it.

The worst part is when you think you get a good deal, only to have the seller deny your bid because they think they can get more.

That's why I stick to good old craigslist. Also, if you are ok with buying a salvage title bike, you certainly get a much better bang for your buck without having to go through the process of fixing, inspecting and retitling it.

That scene pretty much died around Y2k with ebays free listings.

I wasn't working there back then but this had a bit to do with it. A bigger part, however, was Copart opening up bidding to international buyers. All of a sudden, you were competing with guys in Nigeria who could spend more on the cars because they A) spent WAY less on fixing them and B) don't have to deal with the salvage branding so they can sell them for WAY more.

The guys that make real money at copart buy in bulk and export the cars to somewhere with cheaper labor costs and less regulations in getting it back on the road. I think like %40 of our cars went to Mexico or farther south and another %30 went oversees in containers. Competing with these guys is how you end up spending way to much for a piece of junk.

Excellent post, well written & full of good info. :thumbup

BlueScholar for MOD!!! :party :thumbup

:rofl I'm too much of a petty grammar nazi. One too many bans for run-on sentences or incorrect there/their/they're usages and the masses would be chasing me out with pitchforks and torches:afm199
 
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We're at about the same level as far as being GNs. :rofl

I went thru a minor phase of being rather heavy-handed here on teh BARF (may have had something to do with my concussion) and made a few people butt-hurt. :party :laughing
 
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