• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Need Mini rebuild recommendations

Not that this is a solution I'd recommend, but lots of years ago when I was a broke student with a BMW Bavaria that fouled one plug with oil, I upped the heat range two steps on that plug and got it to fire well on that cylinder and run smooth. After running awhile the plug didn't look like the others, naturally, but was at least dry and brownish.
 
I was thinking about getting my wife a used Mini as the prices have really come down. Now I know why these things are going for pennies.

Keep checking back, I may have one for sale soon.... :laughing
 
Not that this is a solution I'd recommend, but lots of years ago when I was a broke student with a BMW Bavaria that fouled one plug with oil, I upped the heat range two steps on that plug and got it to fire well on that cylinder and run smooth. After running awhile the plug didn't look like the others, naturally, but was at least dry and brownish.

that won't work because the engine has forced induction.
 
Sorry, I was away for a while. Compression check number one cylinder. If low, put number one on TDC and blow some air into the plug hole. If you hear air at the valve cover it's the valve guide, if you hear it at the crankcase (dip stick) it's rings. If not either one, turbo is blowing oil.

P.S. you may as well replace the turbo if it's got 70,000 on it.
 
Last edited:
Having heard nothing but bad things about the early MINI engines, I thought the turbo and Works engines were considered reliable?
 
Leakdown test is your friend. Given the DI engine notoriously coking up I would say it's probably you have a top end problem not a bottom end one. Difference will be a long block or just a head/valve job. Big difference. Do a leakdown test.

My '08 S Coupe had 83k miles when I got it. One owner garaged all it's life. The intakes were VERY coked up. I made a tool for the job and used a cheap HF blaster and vacuum. Took probably 6 hours of work to clean it up. Suddenly I got wheel spin back. Probably 30 to 40 ponies. No kidding. It's that bad. I plan on a blast every 25 or 30k to keep it fresh. At least the gasket is reusable so no consumables except your time and walnut shells.

The FSD's are nice. I also ditched the run flat tires and put BFG G-force Comp tires on there. Very, very good especially in the wet. A downpipe back pipe and boost tubes (hot and cold) woke it up. On the list is a CAI and large size intercooler. That's as far as you can go (that's easily reversible and/or smog legal) before you start spending money on JCW turbos and chips and stuff. Lots more money to go that way.

As for turbo replacement mine has 95k+ miles and seems fine. I had it apart about 5k miles ago to inspect it (when I replaced the oil line). I think due to the oil consumption lots of folks run them low and they fry. Hence the reputation. Just keep it topped up.

As for the oil consumption: it sucks. I lose a quart every 750 miles easy. Tried to mitigate this with OCC block and reroute through a catch can. I get a little bit but it's mostly condensation. The coking appears to be a cost of doing business.

It's a total bitch to work on. Water pump? Drop the engine down and remove through right wheel well! Turbo oil cooler gasket? That's take 12 hours please. Just wait until I have to do a clutch....

I use this car as a wintertime commuter over 17 and 9 and Bear Creek. For all the drawbacks that thing rallies like a champ. It's just a stocker S model but I can't seem to get it to break loose without drifting the whole car and then it hooks up nice and predictable. If I had the cash I'd get another, lift it, put mudders on it and rally the shit outta it at Hollister. Fun little car but if your not mechanically inclined... maybe not for you.
 
Mini update: Mini of Stevens Creek called to say the rings on no. 1 piston are toast and the cylinder is scored. Replacement engine (new, 2yr 50k mile warranty) is 12,195 installed. I figured 10 to 11k, so that's in the ballpark.

On Sunday the wife and I test drove a Golf GTI Autobahn and she loved it. Best no haggle price is Sunnyvale VW at $6,000.00 off MSRP. Not too shabby, no work required by me at this point. I should be able to get one for $30,800.00 or thereabouts. But I digress. We test drove the JCW Clubman manual trans next. Nice. The wife has done a complete 180 on me, used to hate the Golf (it's boxy) - what, the Clubman isn't?

I asked her to entertain me for a bit, and let's think big. In my little fantasy I ask Mini to meet me halfway at $6100.00 to replace the engine, based on the service record of the car (always serviced by SC Mini and Mini of Concord to their service schedule).

We're at about $9k in engine repairs this year alone - t.c. and tensioner, water pump, practically every engine seal and gasket and valve cover - this has been one expensive car to own. I asked if she would keep it and forgo the GTI for $6100.00. Yes, this is still more than her Clubman is worth but she absolutely loves the thing. She said no, let's cut the chord and get the GTI. Just then we drove past SC Mini and she made a little sad sound. I asked what was up, and she said she is sad her Mini is dead. I reminded her again that it could be repaired....

The dealer called today, and in response to my request for Mini's financial assistance when I dropped it off on Saturday, they offered a steep discount on a new Mini of our choice. They didn't say how much, because I told them no, we would go for the GTI if we replace it. The service writer told me he would contact Mini again and call me back. This young man has been absolutely awesome to work with both this time and with the last major repair, being instrumental then in Mini giving me a 50% discount.

He called back, and stated that he had Mini pull our service records for the car, told them we were a loyal Mini customer, yada yada, and then told me they offered to replace the engine for - 50% off! So that $6100.00 fantasy came true. Good on him, and good on Mini.

My wife will be in her little slot car a bit longer, and now i will get to see what a difference the Konis make!

Oh, the icing on the cake for me is that I asked if they would put me in a loaner next week until the car is done. The service writer agreed. I feel a bit cheeky, but know it is the right thing for them to do.

If any of you own Minis and have them serviced at this dealership, his name is Luver. He is a fantastic customer advocate, really going the extra mile and then some.

In the end, we are spending more than it's worth, but I plan on selling it before the next issue arises. If only I had a crystal ball......
 
Wow nice.
Also, didn't know the GTI still has an Autobahn trim. Nor that it's $33000 before tax, either...:wtf
 
Last edited:
Damn Ken. Did I do the math right, $15k in engine repairs this year!!?

Sssshhhh.....

Happy wife, happy life. I heard that somewhere; she was blonde I think. Not my wife. WTF, she likes the car, it's better than writing checks for a car payment.:laughing

I feel Mini really stepped up and acknowledge they are still getting beaucoup $$ from us. I really think this thing still has some legs left in it with the new engine. I might chuck the larger JCW turbo on it as well, keep the factory warranty and up the oomph a bit more. From this point on until I sell it, it's a toy. Fuckit, we only live once.
 
Last edited:
Dang, that's great to hear the dealer going the extra mile for you! Loyalty can definitely pay off :thumbup
 
OP, glad your story has a happy ending!

Make sure that they do the little repairs on the transmission/clutch while they're moving it over, there are a bunch of little things that cost a fortune when it's in the car but would be small expenses while out that could be updated on those components.

Good luck!
 
(he's a very accomplished mechanical engineer) .

and he bought a German car... more expensive, more complicated, much more difficult to work on, while being less efficient and powerful. Sounds "over engineered" to me. I love the plastic impellers on water pumps, utilization of both timing chains and belts on the same motor.

They're nice from a users perspective, but if you have to work on them or are conscious about repair/maintenance costs:thumbdown
 
I'll violate the prime directive of post 1.

It's German.
Therefore a fuckin time bomb.

Oh,, did you find that out the hard way?

But the exclusive eurosnob yeah I gots bucks and sophistication should get you through this little bump in the road.
It's only money right?
 
Last edited:
I'll violate the prime directive of post 1.

It's German.
Therefore a fuckin time bomb.

Oh,, did you find that out the hard way?

But the exclusive eurosnob yeah I gots bucks and sophistication should get you through this little bump in the road.
It's only money right?

You know me so well......
 
^ Yeah a buddy of mine had a mini and every month it was something. Oil burning, driveability, brakes or electrics. After 3 years of being on a first name basis with the service department he traded it off. Fun thing to zip around in though.
 
Sorry, I was away for a while. Compression check number one cylinder. If low, put number one on TDC and blow some air into the plug hole. If you hear air at the valve cover it's the valve guide, if you hear it at the crankcase (dip stick) it's rings. If not either one, turbo is blowing oil.

P.S. you may as well replace the turbo if it's got 70,000 on it.

Whatever you do, don't listen to this guy. There is no way to check valve guides by pressurizing the crank case.
 
I'm not being snarky with any of this, but:

I don't "listen to" (take advice from) many people on line if I don't know them personally.

Anyway, he said to pressurize the faulty cylinder, not the crankcase, which I have always been told (going waaaaaay back before the internet) is a valid way to check for a valve related or piston related issue.

Regardless, it's in the dealership waiting to have the engine replaced.
 
Back
Top