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Ninja 250 2007 Not Starting, Need Help. Details included.

F

Fronk

New member
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Location
Bay Area
Moto(s)
2012 STR, 2007 Ninja 250
Name
Frank
Hey everyone,

I need some help troubleshooting a 2007 Ninja 250; it's not starting.
Here's what happened,and the work that was performed on it.

Around Mid-October, two-weeks ago. (2011)

-Carburetors were cleaned with Berryman B12 and compressed air, including all the small holes. Sprayed aerosol Berryman through the "secret" pilot circuit.
-Intake valves were adjusted.
-Exhaust valves were adjusted.
-Fuel Petcock was replaced (vacuum was broken.)
-New fuel was added to the tank.
-New Spark plugs (Denso), they spark just fine, correct gap.
-New air filter installed.
-New motor oil, but haven't changed the oil filter.
-Chain adjusted, lubed.
-Good play on Throttle, Clutch is good, Brakes are good.
-Battery is strong, and cranks over fine. Recharged battery 11/5/11', still didn't start.
-Compression is present (air coming from exhaust while starter switch is on)
-Float bowels adjusted.
-Ran a piece of .008" wire through ALL the jet holes to get rid of any gunk.
-Back flushed the fuel line to remove possible gunk.

Monday October 17, 2011:
Bike started up with choke, turned choke off after a minute, adjusted idle to about 2000. Rode to work and back, idle crept up to 3000.
Tuesday October 18, 2011:
Bike did not start in the morning. Turns
over, battery sounds fine, but doesn't seem to want to "catch." Sounds
like it's wanting to growl up and start, but does not start.
Saturday November 5, 2011:
-Carburetor cleanse number two.
-Changed oil again.
-Checked secure connections from carburetor boots all the way to airbox.
-Fuel is ON, or RES, tried both.
-Cranks over, no start.

What would cause a bike to just die the next day...and on? Could use some help. Thanks everyone.

~Frank
 
Assuming you everything correctly, have you checked to see if you have a vacuum leak?
 
With all the messing around you've been doing with the carbs, I'd suspect its some kind of fuel issue. Did you properly assemble and adjust the "secret" mixture screw after you cleaned the passage?
 
did you thoroughly check the 3 rubber hoses coming out of the tank?
 
Check the battery voltage under these conditions:

1. key off
2. key on
3. while cranking

It could also be that with the sitting and constant cranking that the battery is low. It gets even lower when cranking and doesn't provide enough juice to power the ignition system.

I used to put tiny scooter-batteries on my bikes and had to set up a capacitor for the ignition system to provide a secondary power-source that doesn't get drained when cranking.
 
First thing you should do is try to push start it! Put it in first push it about 10mph and drop the clutch(with the key in the on position)

Also after I cleaned my carb on my zx6r it wouldnt start until I poured gas directly into the carbs.. I'd try that also

Is your battery old? Even though your engine is cranking your battery might still be bad. Push start it and if its starts its your battery. Even if its reading 13 volts while not in use it might be dropping down to 10 or something when you try to start the bike, which isn't enough

You said the idle creeped up? My zx6r was doing that also until I dropped idle from 1600 to 1400, and adjusted the fuel mixture screws
 
air, fuel, compression, spark

Open each carb float drain screw and check for fuel. I bet the carb float bowls are empty due to a disconnected petcock vacuum line.

remove each spark plug, rest against the engine and check for spark.
 
1.) Vacuum Leak (This is the secure connection from engine to carb to airbox right?) If so, then yes, I've checked; I don't think it matters since the bike doesn't even start right now...unless I'm wrong. I am a newbie...

2.) I do have a new tank of gas, and the spark plugs work, and have the correct gap, and are not black or gross or wet when pulled out.

3.) Loose plug wire? I'm not sure what to check. Headlights work, signals work, starter cranks over, no odd noises...

4.) Carburetors and mixture screws were correctly assembled and adjusted afterwards. I was pretty darn careful with this.

5.) 3 Rubber Hoses from the tank are intact and connected correctly.

6.) I have not yet tested the battery with the voltmeter. Recharging to full capacity wouldn't do it? It sounds fairly strong...but I guess I will have to test it. I'm not sure of the battery's age. The previous owners really didn't take care of the bike; it has taken me a month or so to do all the maintenance work to get it back up.

7.) I have not tried push starting it.

8.) I have tested for spark, and it was successful. Petcock was replaced, and checked that both lines were connected, and that the vacuum was indeed working on the replaced petcock.

I guess I have numbers 6 and 7 to try for now; feel free to add, and I'll update as soon as I use a voltmeter.

Thanks everyone!
 
If youve been cranking and cranking it, and the plugs aren't wet, Id say you might not be getting fuel. Are you sure you are flowing from the petcock? Like busa fiend suggested, Id open a float bowl drain screw and make sure theres fuel in there. Battery voltage check is easy and quick and should be done also.
 
Since you know it's not spark, see how far the fuel is making it. Is it getting past the petcock? To the carburetors? Fuel coming from the carburetors?


Also give it a shot bump starting it. Only takes a minute to try, and since it's such a light bike it's easy to do.
 
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If you jump it, do it with the car not running! Definetly try to poor gas directly into the carbs try to start it, and if that doesnt work push start it. I was never able to tell that my battery was dead by the sound of my engine turning over. Hold the horn when you try to start it I bet it will sound like a dying cat.
 
1) Don't bother Bump starting the bike. You haven't confirmed fuel flow yet.

2) Charge the battery with a trickle charger (http://batterytender.com/motorcycle/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html). You *can* Jump start a bike with the car engine running, but it isn't necessary to have the car running. The car battery electric potential is several times the bike battery, and the 14.x VDC (running) car battery charging voltage is perfectly fine for a bike battery.

3) http://faq.ninja250.org/images/4/48/7a_Front_view.jpg The brass connector is the vacuum line connection. Disconnect the vacuum and carb-fuel lines from the petcock. Set the petcock to the ON position. HOLD A GLASS UNDER THE PETCOCK and apply vacuum to the vacuum line connection (suck on a piece of hose). Fuel should flow out the petcock only while sucking on the vacuum line. If you get fuel flow, skip to step 5.

4) If you don't get fuel on step 3, you need to rebuild the petcock. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuilding_the_petcock/fuel_tap

5) http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/m/mGHERJVf60l-XAmHMNdB6cA/140.jpg - That's one carb float bowl. Your bike has two. The nipple on the bottom has a SOFT brass screw. PUT A GLASS UNDER THE NIPPLE and turn the SOFT brass screw counter-clockwise about 4 turns. The screw will be firmly seated. It may take some effort to turn. BE DELIBERATE since the screw is SOFT. Fuel should flow out the nipple. Test each carb float bowl.

6) Post your findings.
 
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If you bump start it and it doesnt start then you'll no for sure if its your battery or not. Charging the battery wont do shit if the battery's bad. The voltage will be fine but the amperage will drop when you put a load on it
 
Will do. Will update again before the night is over! Thanks for all the help again.
 
hayabusafiend said:
1) Don't bother Bump starting the bike. You haven't confirmed fuel flow yet.

2) Charge the battery with a trickle charger (http://batterytender.com/motorcycle/battery-tender-junior-12v-at-0-75a.html). You *can* Jump start a bike with the car engine running, but it isn't necessary to have the car running. The car battery electric potential is several times the bike battery, and the 14.x VDC (running) car battery charging voltage is perfectly fine for a bike battery.

3) http://faq.ninja250.org/images/4/48/7a_Front_view.jpg The brass connector is the vacuum line connection. Disconnect the vacuum and carb-fuel lines from the petcock. Set the petcock to the ON position. HOLD A GLASS UNDER THE PETCOCK and apply vacuum to the vacuum line connection (suck on a piece of hose). Fuel should flow out the petcock only while sucking on the vacuum line. If you get fuel flow, skip to step 5.

4) If you don't get fuel on step 3, you need to rebuild the petcock. http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Rebuilding_the_petcock/fuel_tap

5) http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/m/mGHERJVf60l-XAmHMNdB6cA/140.jpg - That's one carb float bowl. Your bike has two. The nipple on the bottom has a SOFT brass screw. PUT A GLASS UNDER THE NIPPLE and turn the SOFT brass screw counter-clockwise about 4 turns. The screw will be firmly seated. It may take some effort to turn. BE DELIBERATE since the screw is SOFT. Fuel should flow out the nipple. Test each carb float bowl.

6) Post your findings.
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