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noob tips

Usually flat turns will have a more sweeping constant line. Enter with more speed, weight the outside, roll throttle on earlier, and use throttle control to adjust line. Also less leaning, when there is nothing topush the tires against you'll have less grip (obviously)
 
:shocker

geezus, you are by far the worst noob rider coach/critic I have ever read.

using language like that above, what noob in their right mind would ever listen to you?

1. every new rider starts at their own pace, not yours.
2. it can take a noob many simple trail or parking lot rides to just find a comfort zone.
3. stick to the basics; balance, acceleration, stopping, individual control skills. expecting a noob to suffer through hill climbs is unrealistic.

YMMV.


:ride
.


:thumbup Totally agree with Ya.
 
Good that i found this thread. I really want to learn how to ride the trails in a fast, yet safe manner. It sucks to start dirt riding at age 36, but my luck.

My dirt experience has been; 5-6 times riding flat track at Prairie City with Brok and a Rich Oliver Mystery School. I started to ride dirt because i wanted to experience the slide experience to help me in my road racing.

Did i learn something? Yes! I learnt better body position, elbow position, weighing outside peg, getting the bike under you (and not myself), roll off throttle, smooth throttle, initiate slides, take off slides and a lot of rear brake useage.

Eventually, i bought a 08 YZ250F as my first dirt bike. Rode 1 hr at Metcalf, 1 hr at Hollister and this past weekend had a blast at Hollister for 5 hours riding some trails.

But what sucked is, I fell down 6-7 times. And one of the biggest reasons is the height of the bike. Heck, I am 28" inseam and even when i am on the seat with one thigh, i cant reach the ground with another leg, not even tiptoe. But, WoodsChick i believe is smaller than me, so i have been told about smaller riders. So i want to learn on this bike. I do not feel the power intimidating, just the inability to drop a toe of one foot pi$$es me off <I intend to shave the seat and get some room there>

Here are my questions : <Please be patient with my long queries>

1. Steep HillClimbs - scary like sh!t. That steep climb next to the MX track ? I went for an attempt, turned back. How can i be motivated to even attempt it?

2. Ruts - b!tches. 3 times i fell because my front wheel got stuck in the rut. It was dry not muddy. Maybe i was not on "gas" (?) ... I clearly remember i wasnt looking at the rut or at my front tire.

3. Clutch control - I was using a LOT of clutch with blips. Hope i am explaining correctly. Example : you see a nice long straight with bumps, charge into it with feet on the pegs butt towards rear and then a sharp 90 degree turn awaits you. No berm!. I Downshift, but too hot on throttle, have to close, but engine out of power. So clutch in to hold the rpm and start blipping. * Heck, too many things, feet, body, clutch, gear, front brake, rear brake. What do i concentrate on?

Pointers, steps to work on would be very very helpful !
 
1. It's deceptively easy. 3rd gear, stay in the throttle, standing up with your weight forward to keep the front down and feathering the clutch if it does come up.

2. I'm guessing you mean getting cross rutted? The front tire ends up in a rut while the rear goes elsewhere? Gotta hit them with speed.

3. Sounds like a combination of things. Getting accustomed to what gear works at a given speed will help but it's also acceptable to use the clutch to get the engine up into the powerband on exits. Look up a picture of any racer mid corner and they've got a finger on or working the clutch. http://motocross.transworld.net/wp-content/blogs.dir/441/files/2013/01/Dungey_Skullcandy.jpeg

If you want to minimize the inputs then forget the rear brake for right now unless you're in trouble. Until you're comfortable with everything else chances are you're just going to upset the bike by using too much and make it more difficult to ride.

We can go over this stuff on Saturday if you come out.
 
I see a lot of riders buying their first dirt bikes on BARF recently. Here are a few tips for you. Hopefully others will add some more.


Maintain momentum up hills and over obstacles. Even a 2" diameter root will prevent forward progress if you stop instead of attack.

Go back and try again. Once you are stuck, you are fucked; once you have bailed, you have failed. Ride down to the bottom of the hill or roll backwards to get a short run at the obstacle.

Weight equals traction. Ass on seat, feet on pegs.

This guy Al provoked this post. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.

[youtube]6oBHBfcfq2A[/youtube] [youtube]4TgltrCksvw[/youtube]

(Notice how the guy on the 30-year-old, twin-shock beater bike made it up cleanly?)

That angled root across the trail is pure doom. Try to cross those as perpendicular as possible, with as much momentum as possible. If you hit it at low speed, your rear tire will spin and slew to the downhill side.
yer killin' me:laughing better not laugh too hard till I get my knobs dirty, tho, yah? totally green dirt here, but I think its my thing.
 
Know your bikes torque curve? just a guess. totally green dirt here, but have ridden hard tail mountain bikes for a while and understands traction. I'll get out there in a minute. dont rush me.
 
Uphill on roots, rocks, and steps. I've been tring to discipline myself to sit to the rear to weight the rear tire and not try to use my legs to push:

Excellent demonstration: [YOUTUBE]p4LvR4g2FkQ[/YOUTUBE] and a plug for Trials tires and 'thread lightly'. I hate ruts other rider make spinning their rear before an obstacle.

Try using the 'Double Blip' over obstacles: listen to the revs on this video and watch the use of rebound unweighting when the front tire bounces off the top of the obstacle. Hint: you want the front tire to hit the obstacle:

[YOUTUBE]FZ91HztxWC0[/YOUTUBE]​
 
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This dude is spoiled with his magic button. I'm sure a kick start would of provoked a better result, in fear of constantly stalling!!
 
Kickstarting?!?!


I just recently bought a CR85. I suck at kickstarting! Any tips on kickstarting? I tried watching youtube videos…lol
 
My first dirt bike was/is a 2005 CRF450f with an insane amount of after-market parts ;). In any event, between the R1 and the CRF, they are completely different beasts and I figured as much. But, I was so worried about it at first; after one day of riding at Hollister, a single crash and a close call (pot hole, almost caused me to go off the hill...would have been bad) and I am definitely no longer afraid of it :).

My only problems were/are jumps, tight turns and downhill turning. I kept hitting jumps hard and I eventually learned to maintain the bike level, but, kept loosing my footing. After reading this, I'm going to start using my knees to grip the bike. That leaves two additional problems, which I've been working on as of this last weekend.

I've seen some improvement, but, I'm still not where I want to be (even as a rookie dirt rider). I've started leaning into ridges with my leg out, ect. But, I've hit a lot of spots where I'm hitting a jump or a bunch of bumps, at the very end, BAM! There is a tight turn, sometimes even a little downhill. I typically lean back, tap the front brake to slow down, a little of the rear if its a close call. But, I've seen some people take the turn like its nothing, swinging the rear going around the turn. So, how do you swing the rear tire? I've done this by just tapping on the rear brake of course, but, it seems like a lot of people are able to do it with their hips, or maybe its something else?

Someone care to assist with this? Would appreciate the help.
 
This dude is spoiled with his magic button. I'm sure a kick start would of provoked a better result, in fear of constantly stalling!!

I sometimes wish I had the magic button :|. Especially with the 450 compression =/.
 
I think the first thing to do is keep your eyes up, just like you would on the road. A turn shouldn't really come out of nowhere. They might tighten up somewhere in the middle but you should at least be expecting a turn.

When you talk about swinging the rear around is this on a berm, rut or flat?
 
"Rain Ruts" are a b!tch especially in a climb. Obviously the best line avoids the rut/gully all together, but if the climb turns or the rut wanders you may have to cross it. Better to pick your line to cross it on your own terms, and not when it is too late or gets uglier.

If your front or rear tire drops in the rut go with it (assuming it is a ridable rut)! Fighting it will only put you on your side. Immediately find your best option to power out of the rut. When you do, make it deliberate (wheel over the lip if possible) and use your leg and throttle to force the rear tire to follow the front out, you don't want to let it slide along the lip of the rut very long. If it does turn into the slide to follow it and add power until you climb out.

Whatever you do commit and don't hesitate!
 
Kickstarting?!?!


I just recently bought a CR85. I suck at kickstarting! Any tips on kickstarting? I tried watching youtube videos…lol

@ black cx - I figure your making a sarcastic comment, but ...

If you think kick starting a big-bore 4-sroke without auto decompression is difficult, try a large displacement (270cc<) high compression trials bike (it's the low exhaust port that makes it difficult).

The proper technique is not to 'kick at' the lever which is the #1 cause of damage. Use your body weight and not your leg, or you will be exhausted in no time. You have to get the piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) and 'set' your ratchet position by tacking up all the slack to get a full stroke.

[YOUTUBE]QdM4qkAqywk[/YOUTUBE]​

One 'trick' we use is to first put the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear and rock the bike back and forth to get the piston to TDC, the last 'rock' should be backward.

On difficult to start bikes on cold days, we turn the petcock on long before starting, and often lean the bike over until fuel dribbles out of the carburetor overflow. If you use California gasoline and the bike has been sitting for a few days, you may want to drain the carburetor float bowl. Condensation tends to accumulate water in the float bowl.
 
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