Nylon Gear

[bojangle]

Hey barf,

Recommend me some good nylon type riding gear. What do you like that offers good protection, holds up, is a good value, fits well, etc.

What do you use? What do you like?

 

[motomania2007]

My preferences are: Areostich, KLIM, BMW adventure gear

All three start at about $1500 for two pieces. I prefer 1 piece Roadcrafter. I have had one almost 10 years. Works great. I had a low side at 35 mph and it only has minor scuffs that are barely noticeable.

 

[Clem Kevin]

If you're going to spend $1500 on a non-leather get-up just do Kevlar with MotoPort.

I have an Olympia 1-piece (discontinued) and I was surprised by the quality of it, doesn't feel cheap.

 

[bojangle]

Thanks. I'll be looking into what been posted. Please keep em coming if there's anything else you guys like. $1,500 is a little steep, but I'm willing to pay in that price range if it holds up well.

 

[Caddywumpus]

Iv been digging Waxxed cotton gear.

I picked up both jackets on sale. This one was like $130ish

https://www.motorcyclegear.com/stre...peed_and_strength/straight_savage_jacket.html

This one is slightly nicer imo, better quality. $79.

https://www.motorcyclegear.com/stre...ants___textile_/agv_sport/compass_jacket.html

Not nylon, but again sturdy and durable with leather impact areas.

 

[fubar929]

I've owned Motoport and Aerostich Cordura gear. The 1-piece Aerostich Roadcrafter is the better of the two, IMHO. I regret suffering through the Motoport Ultra II Cordura 2-piece suit for so long; should have purchased the Aerostich much sooner.

 

[S21FOLGORE]

Aerostich Roadcrafter R-3.

[YOUTUBE]Nut1rYd1z5o[/YOUTUBE]

(I wear Hit-Air airbag vest over R-3.)

I’m a big fan of one-piece Roadcrafter suit.
(This is my second Roadcrafter one-piece.)

Pros

Very good “real world” protection WITH the convenience of quick on / off.

[YOUTUBE]tD-dh4EEsY8[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]njAg74yX_Bo[/YOUTUBE]

The way I put the suit on (with air-bag vest.)

[YOUTUBE]KMuGSgzcA_E[/YOUTUBE]

(I can do it faster, if I want to. Taking off the suit is much faster, obviously.)

Some alteration options. Repairable. (Less expensive textile gears are essentially “disposable” item.)




Cons

Cost.

Makes you look fat.
(Doesn’t bother me, I weight only 125 lb. with the clothes on.)

Makes you look dorky.
(Doesn’t bother me. Motorcycling is neither fashion show nor lifestyle statement, to me.)

When it gets near 90°F (and above), it is not comfortable (especially if you are in stop-n- go traffic.)


R-3 is one of the best riding gear in (most part of) the bay area weather.

And, don’t underestimate the power of “convenience”.
(For example, if you decide to wear kevlar (aramid fiber) reinforced jeans with separate knee protectors underneath, chances are, you are going to skip the knee pads at some point.)

 

[danate]

Motoport is a little bit more bulky and hard to put on, but the armor has great coverage and I feel safest in it vs my Aerostich. It’s also custom fit and available in mesh for the hot days. Highly recommend!

 

[Blankpage]

I have the Dainese Drake Air pants and jacket. I only wore the pants once but it flowed a lot of air as does the jacket. They're both cheap so probably not offering great protection if crashed in.

 

[norcalkid]

If you're going to spend $1500 on a non-leather get-up just do Kevlar with MotoPort.

I have an Olympia 1-piece (discontinued) and I was surprised by the quality of it, doesn't feel cheap.

I really like my Olympia, only real gripe is it's not waterproof. Would really prefer not having to carry, stop and put on an extra layer.

 

[Maddevill]

Hey barf,

Recommend me some good nylon type riding gear. What do you like that offers good protection, holds up, is a good value, fits well, etc.

What do you use? What do you like?

I assume you mean Textile not nylon. Nylon clothing melts when sliding on pavement. Sticks to the skin. Not fun.

Mad

 

[bojangle]

I assume you mean Textile not nylon. Nylon clothing melts when sliding on pavement. Sticks to the skin. Not fun.

Mad

Well, yeah, that. Textile gear then.

 

[budman]

Nice post S21FOLGORE

I have a tour master jacket and klim pants.

I like them both. The jacket is getting a little old and I have been thinking about getting the HELITE ADV AIRBAG JACKET

At some point I would love to check them out.

 

[S21FOLGORE]

Well, yeah, that. Textile gear then.

Um, I think he confused a little bit about

Nylon (for MC gear, usually this means
Cordura Nylon)


and

Polyester

The word textile is used as "woven fabric", in MC gear world.

Less expensive gears (even some high end gears) uses polyester, which I think you want to avoid.

[YOUTUBE]V13lkDkEbqY?t=106[/YOUTUBE]

That's NOT a cheap gear, that's Rev'it Tornado pants. (Polyester)

Read more about this here.
https://www.mcgearhub.com/mc-gear-c...stroyed-motorcycle-crash-revit-tornado-pants/

One more example
[YOUTUBE]_-PylOp2EB8[/YOUTUBE]

 

[dravnx]

It depends on what you want your gear to do. I have a set of Klim Badlands Pro jacket and pants. Good protections, completely waterproof, vents really well and I like the flexibility of being able to remove the jacket when I stop for lunch. It's my touring setup.
I have an Aerostich Roadcrafter for commuting. Waterproof, good protection but doesn't vent as well as the Klim gear. It is easy on easy off over my cloths for commuting.
I paid retail for the Klim stuff but the 'stich was found on Ebay for $350. It looked brand new when I got it.
There are some great deals to be had on used gear. Watch Advrider and Ebay.
If you don't want to deal with rain suits or liners, stick with bonded Goretex. Goretex can be built into a suit 2 ways. Bonded to the outer layer(preferable) or as an envelope between the inner and out layer. Do not get a Goretex suit that does not have a liner. The Goretex can abrade against rub points like elbows and knees and eventually wear out. The bonded Goretex is preferable for the same reason.

 

[kurth83]

motoport for me, most crash-worthy textile you can buy. I have the two piece setup, jacket and overpants. AFAIK their kevlar mesh is about the only breathable stuff that won't shred in a prolonged slide. That alone is worth it for the summer commutes. The impact armor (upsell version) is super thick too.

 

[cal scott]

Goretex can be built into a suit 2 ways. Bonded to the outer layer(preferable) or as an envelope between the inner and out layer. Do not get a Goretex suit that does not have a liner. The Goretex can abrade against rub points like elbows and knees and eventually wear out. The bonded Goretex is preferable for the same reason.

Goretex is always bonded to the outer layer. The difference is whether or not it is bonded to the inner layer. Bonding to the inner layer is referred to as a 3-layer fabric while non-bonded is a 2-layer fabric. 2 layer fabrics require a liner to be added to the garment to protect the membrane.

3-layer garments are lighter, less bulky, generally more durable, more breathable but have a stiffer feel and are more costly. 2-layer garments are generally heavier, bulkier and less breathable but more supple and less costly.

WL Gore carefully controls how its manufacturing partners utilize their membrane in their garments. To my knowledge, WL Gore will not approve garments that do not protect both faces of the membrane by including some type of inner layer, whether it be bonded or not.

 

[bojangle]

Um, I think he confused a little bit about

Nylon (for MC gear, usually this means
Cordura Nylon)


and

Polyester

The word textile is used as "woven fabric", in MC gear world.

Less expensive gears (even some high end gears) uses polyester, which I think you want to avoid.

[YOUTUBE]V13lkDkEbqY?t=106[/YOUTUBE]

That's NOT a cheap gear, that's Rev'it Tornado pants. (Polyester)

Read more about this here.
https://www.mcgearhub.com/mc-gear-c...stroyed-motorcycle-crash-revit-tornado-pants/

One more example
[YOUTUBE]_-PylOp2EB8[/YOUTUBE]

I've been checking out the Aerostitch two piece roadcrafter and saw the mention of cordura nylon.

It depends on what you want your gear to do. I have a set of Klim Badlands Pro jacket and pants. Good protections, completely waterproof, vents really well and I like the flexibility of being able to remove the jacket when I stop for lunch. It's my touring setup.
I have an Aerostich Roadcrafter for commuting. Waterproof, good protection but doesn't vent as well as the Klim gear. It is easy on easy off over my cloths for commuting.
I paid retail for the Klim stuff but the 'stich was found on Ebay for $350. It looked brand new when I got it.
There are some great deals to be had on used gear. Watch Advrider and Ebay.
If you don't want to deal with rain suits or liners, stick with bonded Goretex. Goretex can be built into a suit 2 ways. Bonded to the outer layer(preferable) or as an envelope between the inner and out layer. Do not get a Goretex suit that does not have a liner. The Goretex can abrade against rub points like elbows and knees and eventually wear out. The bonded Goretex is preferable for the same reason.

Thanks for the info.

 

[ctwo]

I misunderstood the thread

 

[dravnx]

Goretex is always bonded to the outer layer. The difference is whether or not it is bonded to the inner layer. Bonding to the inner layer is referred to as a 3-layer fabric while non-bonded is a 2-layer fabric. 2 layer fabrics require a liner to be added to the garment to protect the membrane.

3-layer garments are lighter, less bulky, generally more durable, more breathable but have a stiffer feel and are more costly. 2-layer garments are generally heavier, bulkier and less breathable but more supple and less costly.

WL Gore carefully controls how its manufacturing partners utilize their membrane in their garments. To my knowledge, WL Gore will not approve garments that do not protect both faces of the membrane by including some type of inner layer, whether it be bonded or not.

I thought 'stich has a suit where the Goretex wears out because it doesn't have an inner liner? The R3 Light?