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Paper vs K&N vs Foam Air Filters

kuksul08

Suh Dude
Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Location
Hoonville
Moto(s)
Whee!
There are three main types of air filter used on motorcycles - paper, oiled foam, and oiled gauze (K&N).

I have always been an fan of paper air filters. You know - the type that come from the factory on most street vehicles. These types of filters have a large surface area due to being pleated, yet also have a very fine filtering ability since their construction is a very tight paper fiber construction. I think these are the best type of air filter for keeping a clean engine. The downside is that you cannot service this type of filter. When it gets clogged, it's time to replace it.

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Next we have K&N filters which are a similar pleated construction, but use a thin later of gauze held in place by wire mesh. These supposedly give better airflow, but at the huge sacrifice of air filtration ability! Have you ever held one of these up to the light? You can see right through it. Run one on your motorcycle, and I guarantee you will be able to wipe a layer of dark dirt from the *clean* side of your airbox. These filters have no place on a street bike you intend to rack up lots of miles on. Supposedly, the big benefit of these filters is that you can clean and re-use it, but with the initial cost, and reduced filtering, it doesn't seem worth it to me. It has been proven time and time again that the power increase is negligible from using one of these filters.

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Lastly, we have foam air filters. A properly constructed foam filter will have two densities to progressively trap dirt particles, and will be oiled. These are commonly used on off-road bikes due to the presence of so much dirt and sometimes water. They do an excellent job of filtering due to the thickness of foam the air must pass through, but require frequent maintenance to get the dirt out and replace the oil, since the open foam cells will eventually clog up. These could also be used on a street bike, if you're willing to clean it more often.

2008_Twin_Air_Foam_Air_Filter.jpg



What kind of air filter do you run and why?
 
When I had my hot rod Bonnie, I ran UNI foam pods on the 39MM flat slides because the consensus was from tests that they had better flow than the K&N and DNA filters.

I never cleaned and oiled them. Just used them for a season and replaced with new bc they were cheap.

I don't mess with the Duc in that that regard. BTW, the ride went well today?

The dash cover is awesome, thanks again!
 
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When I had my hot rod Bonnie, I ran UNI foam pods on the 39MM flat slides because the consensus was that they had better flow than the K&N and DNA filters.

I never cleaned and oiled them. Just used them for a season and replaced with new bc they were cheap.

I don't mess with the Duc in that that regard. BTW, the ride went well today?

The dash cover is awesome, thanks again!

Went down to LG, and was hearing a ticking noise... found my countershaft sprocket came loose! Had to cut the ride short. :(

Glad you like it :thumbup
 
no dirt riding.

oiled foam. I used these on my bikes now. Ass dyno dont feel any power loss after 14k clean intervals. probably because the entire air box is replaced with a foam filter box

used cotton gauze for decades. issues is after multiple cleanings you can see holes or thin patches. used some off brand ones on my zrx for 80k miles. I have K&N oem replacements in my car now. I dont plan to clean them for a long time but car sees only 10k a year
 
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Went down to LG, and was hearing a ticking noise... found my countershaft sprocket came loose! Had to cut the ride short. :(

Glad you like it :thumbup

Wow! I can't imagine how that would happen, Locking washer went bad? Hope the shaft didn't get chewed up. Good time to go for the 14T, maybe?:cool
 
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~58K on my SV650s including 30 trackdays using a BMC air filter. I do use K&N oil filters so I don't have to mess around with a strap wrench.
 
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I am a HiFiltro paper filter lover.

After many long dirt rides on streetbiles I often found a layer of dirt in my airbox under the K&N or BMC filter. Yes, the airbox was sealed right.
Never had dirt get past paper filters on street bikes.

Dirty bikes always have oiled foam.


Butt dyno cannot tell a difference either. So OEM it is.
 
Honda super hawk does not like anything other than OEM. No amount of dicking with the carb will get it to flow right with the non paper OE filters. I'm all about OEM equipt.
 
Wow! I can't imagine how that would happen, Locking washer went bad? Hope the shaft didn't get chewed up. Good time to go for the 14T, maybe?:cool

Apparently... The nut pushed the lock washer out of position. I secured it back and bent 3 tabs in. Not going anywhere now :D

14T didn't work on my bike. The rev limiter kicks in at 8000RPM with it.
 
OEM is best for the engine, according to lots of studies I've read. OEM filters out more and smaller particles. Since I don't care about max power, I don't care about maximizing air flow, so I stick to OEM.
 
Im a fan of the uni the foam gives me the air flow i want and the filtration that im good with. My grom I run a velocity stack and thats it its all about max power.
 
I stick with stock filters for street riding and a Uni filter for dirt. There is no way I would use a K&N filter for either. They'll definitely let dirt through when riding in dusty conditions and I don't want that.

I had a Uni filter on one of the Monsters that I used to own. It wasn't necessarily any better than stock.
 
While even the newest bikes still don't have nearly the amount of sensors for engine management that cars do, I just don't think whatever minuscule gain you get from those oil soaked filters is worth it. With cars, I've seen all that oil build up on air flow, intake air temp, and manifold pressure sensors in addition to building up a bunch of gunk in the throttle body bore. All of which can lead to loss of power (which is hilarious since you put the damn filter on for more power) and other weird drivability problems. In some rare cases, some real damage was actually done. Partially clogged air flow sensor skewed the reading and changed the fueling to way too rich. Eventually it prematurely wore down the catalytic converter.
 
Rob, does that happen from over oiling the filter or do u think even regular amounts coat the intake sensors?
 
Rob, does that happen from over oiling the filter or do u think even regular amounts coat the intake sensors?
I don't know about Rob's experience, but I've never detected oil in the intake downstream of a UniFilter that has been properly oiled. And by properly oiled, I mean using a foam air filter-specific oil and squeezing out as much as can be squeezed out before using it. That oil doesn't want to go anywhere but in the foam.
 
Rob, does that happen from over oiling the filter or do u think even regular amounts coat the intake sensors?

Here's the thing. You have to oil them or they'll let too many fine particles through and eventually do more harm than good to the engine. I'm sure most already know that. What I've found is that people go mod crazy when they first get the car. Change the lights, lower it, and of course the K&N. And those brand new K&Ns are pre oiled to the recommended amount and ready to install right out of the package. Yet before the first "service" is due for those K&Ns, I get those cars in with a check engine light and/or some kind of drivability issue. So over oiling isn't an issue since it was even at the point where user error could come in yet.
 
I run oem paper air filters on all my bikes save the Ducati, but I recently switched over to a MWR unit. The stock factory filter doesn't seal completely at the ends (not my bike but another MTS)...

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One trick is to slather black grease on the end caps to trap anything that rides in on the intake flow. While this is a bit shadetree, it does work because every time I changed out the filter I found crap caught in the grease. Fortunately, the interior of the airbox downstream was clean.

The MWR gives me the re-usability advantage, and I do like the idea of the steel support frame. not to mention much better sealing at the ends:

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Did I also mention that the oem part retails for over $100? :wtf I'd be paying the same price for a one-use paper filter, as I would for an aftermarket one that I can clean, re-oil and reinstall. :laughing As for any performance difference, there is a little more intake honk. It boasts better flow, and while I also did a garage ECU re-flash (Tune Boy) I intend to get things fine-tuned this fall at the local dyno house. :eboy
 
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